Fatehpur Sikri Fort, Agra, India

It was my second day of stay at Agra. I started at 7.30 by auto to see Sikandra (Akbar’s Tomb), Mariam’s Tomb (Jodha Bai), Chini Ka Rauza and Etima-ud-daulah Tomb. After this auto dropped me at 10.30 AM at the bus stand to go to Fatehpur Sikri. I reached Sikri in 1 hour and 20 minutes (40 KM) by bus. The bus is a better option to travel. Spent 3 hours at this fort.

My Itinerary

In this trip I planned to visit five UNESCO World Heritage forts, a Safari and a few tombs, which were of great stalwarts of history but comparatively less popular tombs.

Plan All Journeys by Train only – Agra-Mathura-Sawai Madhopur-jaipur-chittoegarh

Bus stops near the Buland Darwaza gate. I walk about 100 meters of steep and about 40 tough steps to reach Buland Darwaza. It is March 18 today, and it seems the summer has not set in still, and so it is not hot and there is no sweating.

This 11 KM long fort is UNESCO World Heritage Site that Akbar started as his capital in 1569. The Sikri seems to be like a village-type town. Since I had started at 7.30 AM to see tombs in Agra, I had no chance for breakfast; I felt hungry. There were no really clean restaurants in Sikri, but luckily I got a hot and fresh samosa. The taste was the best so far taken by me in the North in years. Really.

By this time some unprofessional locals surround me, but they are polite enough, and finally I took a class X lad to just tell about Fatehpur (points around Salim Chisti Tomb) only for just Rs.20. The Muslim lad (his father standing beside him looked happy) tells me that Fatehpur and Sikri are part of same fort. One small part around Chisti Tomb is called Fatehpur, while the main palace is called Sikri. He notices that I am convinced.

The local lad shows me five points that comprise Fatehpur-Buland Darwaza, Jama Masjid, Salim Chisti Dargah, Islam Shah Tomb, and Madrasa.

The Fatehpur side of the fort was much more crowded due to the Saint Salim Chisti Dargah. I felt as if I had come to Jama Masjid or some Gurudwara.

Buland Darwaza was built by Akbar in 1576 AD to commemorate victory over Gujarat. It was almost Akbar’s first major victory. And from here Mughal Empire set their firm foot.

Buland Darwaza- 9 windows above signify 9 Gems of Akbar Court

Now on the left side wall of the Fatehpur part, we can see Jama Masjid.

Jama Masjid was constructed by Akbar in 1571 AD, and he personally supervised it.

From the Jama Masjid part, we can see the best view of “Hiran Minar.”

Hiran Minar—It served the purpose on land the same as does the lighthouse at sea. Also meant to see wildlife and water sports from the top.

View of Sikri Town from the Fort. On the right side of the Fatehpur fort compound we can see “King’s Gate.” It is called Kings Gate, as after praying at Salim Chisti, the king used to enter into the Sikri part of the fort through this gate.

The complete geography of this fort is as in this “map” given by ASI on the ticket counter.

Map of the complete geography of the fort: the guide will show you about 20 points, as some points are far and need more time.

I took an approved guide for Rs.450, and first we started with “Horses Astable” and “Birbal Palace.” Earlier there was a wall between the two.

Astable and in middle is seen Birbal Palace. But it is controversial if it was really of Birbal. But I think it is.

Astabal- Closer view. We can see pegs on ground

Inside a room of Birbal Palace. Feels so good here.

Just very near to Birbal Palace is “Jodha Bai Summer Palace.” It is the backside of the palace, as it faced the Yamuna River and winds flowed across.

Queen Jodha Bai’s Summer Palace faces the Yamuna River for wind. The backside of her main palace.

In Jodhabai Palace, Jahangir was born in 1569 AD.

Front side of Jodha Bai huge Palace. Back portion is summer place, as shown above

Inside of Jodha Bai Palace. The first floor of this palace is not open to the public now.

Below is Panch Mahal, which was constructed by Sikarwar Rajputs, and it acts like a “wind catcher.” The first story has 56, the second 20, the third 12, and the fourth has 4 columns. It was used for entertainment purposes by queens and kings.

Panch Mahal distant view. Constructed by Sikarwar Rajputs, it acts like “wind catcher”.

Astrologer’s seat. As per experienced guide Akbar believed on Hindu astrologers and here astrologer would read Panchang (maybe daily?).

Just behind and almost touching is a 3-roomed building called “Daulatkhana.”

Daulat Khana—a 3-roomed building called also Aankh Michouli—Hide and seek

Below is the most photographed building of Sikri Fort. This is called “Diwan-i-Khas”.

Diwan-i-Khas- The most photographed building of Sikri fort.

Murals inside Diwan-i-khas-Every tourist takes foto here without fail.

“Diwan-i-Am” is the part of fort where Akbar used to hear public petitions and give his judgement.

The pavilion where Akbar used to sit to address the Public

Anup Talao- Here magical voice singer **Tansen** used to sit in middle of pond and sing

Adjacent to Anup Talao is Badshah Aram Gah. This was where Akbar used to rest during programs on Anup Talao

Chausar platform—A type of game where men will stand and move. Played among 4 players.

Decoration inside Kaanch Mahal (adjacent to Anup Talao).

Inside Kaanch Mahal. These were filled with imported coloured glassesFinally Me and my Guide at Fatehpur Sikri Fort.

Epilogue

Most tourists see Fatehpur Sikri as a fort like any other fort. But I see that Fatehpur Sikri is not just named “Fateh,” but it has a huge meaning behind it. After the initial faltering of the Mughal Empire from 1526 to 1555, Akbar changed all Hindu-Muslim equations in India and created a coffin for existing Hindu empires by constructing Fatehpur Sikri Fort. It was like an official stamp of his supremacy on the existing Hindu empires in India. He united Hindu Rajput Empires by nuptial relations with him one by one and ruled over almost 60% of India. Therefore, Akbar proved that its name “Fateh” was justly given by him. It proved a coffin for us.

But the British followed a different policy of ruling, that is, “divide and rule,” which we are religiously following even today without knowing the “consequences.” We should remember “History Repeats.”