Location
Jaisalmer is a city in state of Rajasthan, India. It is in Thar desert. In summer temperatures exceeds 48 °C, and during the winter they may dip below freezing. The city is famous as golden city as almost all city has natural yellow stone buildings and these change hue in a day. It has about 800 years old living fort which are only very few in world. About centuries ago the whole city was nothing except this fort and outside the fort people started living only in 17th century.
Roads are in good condition and city is well connected by buses and trains. There is domestic airport just 15 KM from city.
History
I have mentioned the history and genealogy of kingdom of Jaisalmer at link – ‘A glance at rajasthan rajput dynasties‘.
Our Itinerary
Exploring this fort was part of our 18 days trip to Rajasthan. After spending three days in Bikaner we caught 11.30 PM train to Jaisalmer which touched it at 5.30 AM. We came out of the railway station and just walking few meters got auto for Rs.100 to drop us at RTDC Moomal hotel (2 KM). This hotel is in huge compound, restaurant and rooms are OK.
Time required to visit Jaisalmer
Three to four days.
Best time to visit
September to March end.
Where to stay
I stay always in state’s Government tourist department hotels. They are average but have good restaurant spacious airy rooms and big and green premises. Renovation was going on and room was not in good state but it was OK for me. If rush is less or off season they prepare lunch as per your individual order. Breakfast is normally included in tariff. In North India they usually serve you aloo paratha, curd or poori-bhaji.
Hotel booking – https://rtdc.tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/client/hotellist.aspx
Day 1 – We hired an auto for full day for Rs.800 on day 1 of our local trip inside Jaisalmer city as per our plan.
Badabagh Cenotaphs
Entry fee to Badabagh is Rs.150. The custom prevalent in Rajasthan was that after death of king the cenotaph is built only after the marriage of grand son. Till then the ashes are kept in pitcher. This is spectacular scene and one of the most photogenic sites in Rajasthan and best among cenotaphs of Bikaner, Udaipur. We had taken a guide for Rs.200 who made our 1 minute video here which became an everlasting memory for us.
The day we visited, there was a foreign documentary team setting camera for shooting.
Jaisalmer War Museum
We saw this war museum on way to Sam Dhani Desert camp. It is about 10 KM from Jaisalmer city. Honor Wall engraved with the names of the Param Vir Chakra and Maha Vir Chakra gallantry award winners, two large Information Display Halls – Indian Army Hall and Longewal Hall, an Audio Visual Room, a souvenir shop and a cafeteria are part of this museum. Better to reach here before 12.30 PM as some halls close for some hours in afternoon.
It takes about an hour to see this famous museum.
Salim Singh ki haveli
This is a famous tourist spot in Jaisalmer. It is in very congested, narrow and stinky streets in main city. This was built by Salim Singh, Chief Minister of the king Rawal Bheem Singh in 1815 AD. This was once a most magnificent building of Jaisalmer such that Rawal had to order to demolish its two stories as it was competing the height of Rawal’s palace. Salim Singh was a very infamous minister of that time whose lecherous and cruel acts forced the inhabitants of 84 villages like Kuldhara and Khaba to abandon their houses overnight.
Patwon ki haveli
This haveli and Nathmal ji ki haveli are in heart of city. Our auto went through the very narrow and unclean lanes. He parked it in little space and we headed towards ticket counter. The entry fee is Rs. 150 each visitor and camera is included in this. Guides are there and I think you should hire them as the haveli is complex.
These huge havelis built in yellow stone have intricate carvings. These were constructed in beginning of 19th century by Patwa (title) named Seth Guman Mal Bafna for residential purpose. There is a ancestry tree displayed in the haveli in which the builder of this haveli is on top. The generations from him built Nathmal ki haveli in Jaisalmer and Amar Sagar temple in outskirts of Jaisalmer.
These havelis are adorned with carvings on doors, embedded ivory, golden paintings on inner roof and walls and Belgian glasses in lattices and balconies. Keeping in view of climate of Jaisalmer, the floors are made of mud and wood has been used for roofs so that they remain cool in summer and warm in winter.
There are three havelis in continuation and each has deewan khana, guest room, kitchen, basement, staircase and each of these are tourist attraction worldwide.
The rooms are outstandingly decorated with art work of gold, wood and stone. Though now the standards of modern designs have changed, these havelis must be matchless of those times. I was stunned to see these havelis.
The coins and weights displayed in this haveli are of rajput and British period. The weights were mostly manufactured in Agra. Those days one ‘sher’ of weight was heavier than other states.
Mandir Palace museum
Mandir Palace museum, Patwon ki haveli and Nathmal ki haveli all are within a radius of 1 KM. Mandir palace is converted to hotel now and in one part of this palace live the current titular king and family. There is entry fee of Rs. 160 for Jawahir Vilas and Zenana mahal. I saw these here and I think it has no new things what we saw in Patwon ki haveli museum. You can skip this entry and just take photo outside.
Gadisar lake
This is a beautiful lake specially in evening though the surroundings unfortunately are not kept clean.
This ends our Day 1 hectic tour in local Jaisalmer.
Day 2- We hired the auto for showing us Kuldhara, Khaba fort and drop at RTDC Samdhani Desert Camp. .
Jaisalmer – Kuldhara – Khaba Fort – RTDC Desert Camp drop
The details of Kuldhara are in my blog link at Kuldhara Deserted Village- Mini Pompeii of India.
The details of Khaba fort are in my blog link at Khaba Fort- A silent Bird In Desert.
Desert Camp
Desert camp stay was quite enchanting and entertaining. The desert camps are setup on sand dunes which are sporadically found in Thar and most beautiful sand dunes are in Jaisalmer. If you have less time you can take desert camp only in Jaisalmer as nice Jeep Safari, trained camel safari, folk dances are available. We had taken RTDC Samdhani Desert camp and in package of Rs.4000 all above activities except jeep safari are included. The staff was good, descent and rich breakfast and dinner they served. I suggest to go for all three activities.
We saw one sand dunes by jeep safari which about 10 KM from Samdhani and other sand dune which was in solitude and more scenic at just walking distance from Samdhani. We did camel safari in cart in later one which was included in Samdhani package.
Sand dunes are at just walking distance from RTDC Samdhani.
Day 3 – We called the same auto from Jaisalmer to pickup us from RTDC Samdhani desert camp. He showed ]== us Chintamani Parshwanath Jain temple and Amar Sagar Jain temple. Both these are in old capital Lodurva of Jaisalmer kings. Same auto dropped us in Jaisalmer. It took about 2.5 hours to visit these two temples.
Samdhabi Desert Camp – Parshwanath Jain temple, Lodurva – Amar Sagar Jain temple – Jaisalmer drop
Chintamani Parshwanath Jain temple, Lodurva
Lodurva was old capital of Jaisalmer Rajput king Jaisalji. There were frequent attacks by Muslim forces, he shifted his capital to Jaisalmer and took the original Parshwanath idols to Jaisalmer fort Jain temple. The present idols were made by two craftsmen from Patan and were brought by a cart from Multan. This cart is still kept in this temple for display.
Amar Sagar Jain temple
This is one of the best Jain temples I saw. This was built by Seth Himmat ram Bafna, a generation of Guman Mal Bafna who had built Patwon ki haveli. The artwork and sculptures in this temple are miraculous piece of work. This temple is about 200 years old temple.
Day 4 – We visited Jaisalmer fort in morning time and came back to hotel to catch 1.30 PM train to Jodhpur.
Jaisalmer Fort – UNESCO World Heritage
The details of Jaisalmer fort are in my blog link at Jaisalmer Fort – UNESCO World Heritage.
Epilogue
There are about no less than 15 landmark worth seeing monuments and at least 3 full days are needed to visit these. This includes one day stay at desert camp and activities in sand dunes like jeep safari , camel riding and folk dance. Fort needs half day.
The whole of Jaisalmer from the monuments to local houses in city look golden. These are small markets and you can take a stroll in market. The city is very clean, people are good and autos do not trouble. Better keep some cash as some shops and auto guys do not accept online payments.
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