खाबा खूब फब्यौ, हर्ज़ाला हरि मंदिरा I
कोट बाजार सज्यो, रावल राजधानी लजी II
“Khaba village and Harjala Godess temple are extravagantly bedecked, The Kot market is so decorated that even the Kings capital Jaisalmer is reddened with blush”.
Location
Khaba village is located at just 42 KM from Jaisalmer city in state of Rajasthan, India. Tourists who comes to Jaisalmer sometimes prefer miss Khaba fort. But I think since it is just 14 KM from Kuldhara, you should visit this fort. All Roads till fort are in very good condition.
Our Itinerary
Exploring this village was part of our 18 days trip to Rajasthan. After spending three days in Bikaner we caught 11.30 PM train to Jaisalmer which touched it at 5.30 AM. We came out of the railway station and just walking few meters got auto for Rs.100 to drop us at RTDC Moomal hotel (2 KM). This hotel has huge compound, restaurant and rooms are OK.
The auto had taken us in order as
Jaisalmer RTDC hotel (10 AM) – Kuldhara – Khaba fort – Drop at RTDC Samdhani desert camp (2.30 PM)
Next day
Pickup from Samdhani desert camp – Chintamani Parshwanath Jain temple at Lodrawa – Amar Sagar Jain temple – Jaisalemer RTDC hotel.
Time required to visit Kuldhara
30 minutes. Entry fee Rs.30.
Best time to visit
September to March end.
Where to stay
For seeing Kuldhara and Khaba better to stay in Jaisalmer and visit Kuldhara and Khaba fort (14 KM from Kuldhara) by auto on way to Desert camp.
Hotel booking – https://rtdc.tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/client/hotellist.aspx
Now about Khaba Fort
The story of Kuldhara and Kaba village is same as these were one of the 84 villages which were abandoned overnight in 1815 AD.
Early settlement – Khaba was inhabited by Goyal Rajputs in 13th century (800 years ago). But subsequently they were left homeless as Pal Rajputs captured their area. A Paliwal Brahmin named Harjal Kunwar came in contact with Goyals and defeated Pals to restore the homes back to Goyal Rajputs.
The head of Goyal Rajput offered the hand of his daughter to Harjal Kunwar after approval from Kashi Pandits the marriage solemnized. Goyal Rajputs offered the village and lands to Harjal Paliwal community as dowry. This was how Kuldhara and Khaba other 82 villages founded. Many Paliwals from different directions also started migrating here.
19th Century settlement – According to folklore, in early 19th century all habitats of 84 villages had to abandon the place overnight, attributed to various causes, ranging from persecution by Salim Singh to draught and earthquake. The 84 villages were evacuated about 200 years ago and still is in abandoned state. The ASI board on site of Kuldhara attributes to three probable versions.
First version – There was water shortage in the village and wells were drying up. The taxes were levied heavily by Salim Singh in spite of reduced agriculture production. This lead the villagers to leave the village. But as per popular belief that the villages were abandoned overnight. If tax is to be evaded why they will leave overnight?
Second version – It seems as per Scientists earthquake was the reason. But in that case people could rebuild the houses. Why they abandoned never to return?
Third version – A lewd minister Salim Singh was attracted to a beautiful girl from the village. He sent his guards to force the villagers to hand over the girl. The villagers asked the guards to return next morning, and abandoned the village overnight. Out of all this the third version seems to be stronger and more prevalent in locals. We can see a famous haveli built by Salim Singh in Jaisalmer city which is now a must see tourist spot. This incident also shows the feudal nature of governance those days. Maharaja Bheem Singh was the king in that period.
Khaba fort was a tax collection office those days. Since it was on silk route lot of merchants used to pass from here for trade of afeem, dry fruits, camels and tax was collected in this office. This tax was the reason of the richness of Jaisalmer kingdom.
Inside fort the renovation work is in progress.
This is a small fort no doubt but it is so admirable that the habitats here are job to develop it is a tourist spot.
A museum is maintained temporarily in the fort. This displays the articles used those days in daily life and types of stones found in this area.
Epilogue
Khaba Fort may fall below your expectation and you may curse me to hype this fort for visitors. But I really do not agree that there is nothing to see here. These places were once throb of life, bustling when Silk Route was alive. We can not expect the disco here or some miraculous scenery. These are barren land and come prepared to listen the breath of desert, golden sand around all the paths, no human life around, cactus, bushes and only few trees scattered.
This is better or stressed and groaning cities with heavy traffic and noise. You have to decide.
Come and enjoy desert beauty and silence.
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