The chance finally arose when a relative came to Bengaluru. I chose to merge her visit with an extended trip that included Dindi, Srisailam, and Hyderabad, which ultimately transformed into a remarkable six-day journey.
In Dindi, we dedicated a day to exploring the Godavari River by boat, relishing the serene backwaters and the surrounding countryside. Following that, we made our way to Srisailam, where our primary goal was to visit the Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple, one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva.
After our time in Srisailam, we caught a train at 11:30 p.m. and arrived in Hyderabad around 6:30 a.m. After checking into our hotel and resting a bit, we didn’t delay. Our exploration of Hyderabad commenced that very day, with Golconda Fort beckoning us to discover its secrets.
Our Three-Day Hyderabad Itinerary
I believe you need at least two full days to really soak in the major historical sites of Hyderabad, and if you’re keen on checking out the famous Ramoji Film City, adding another day is definitely worth it.
Day 1: Golconda Fort – around 3 hours; Qutb Shahi Tombs Necropolis – around 3 hours
Day 2: Charminar – Chowmahalla Palace – Purani Haveli – Salar Jung Museum
Day 3: Ramoji Film City – a full-day adventure
Note that some monuments may be closed on Fridays, so plan accordingly. Also, for Ramoji Film City, book the online ticket in advance one week.
Where to Stay
Hyderabad has a great selection of hotels, guesthouses, and homestays. Our train from Bengaluru ended its journey at Cherlapalli (CHZ) railway station. Since most historical sites are located around the old city and central Hyderabad, I decided it was better to stay close to Kacheguda Railway Station instead of Cherlapalli.
We picked The Silk White Hotel, which is just a stone’s throw from Kacheguda Railway Station, where all four of us could share a room for about ₹2,500 a day for the whole group.
Getting around Hyderabad is super easy with Ola, Uber, and autos available, making it simple to hop between different attractions.
Location
Hyderabad is the capital of Telangana and one of the major cities of southern India. It has an international airport and several railway stations and is well connected by rail and road with most parts of India. Within a radius of roughly 10–15 km, one can move from the medieval world of Golconda and the Qutb Shahis to the royal world of the Nizams.
Upon arriving in Hyderabad, my main aim was to delve into its historical landmarks.
Standing before the grand Golconda Fort, I found myself pondering the vast history that had unfolded within its walls. The fort, with its towering walls, ancient structures, mosques, and monuments, seemed to narrate tales from a distant past. I could almost envision the countless individuals who must have traversed this ground daily. What thoughts crossed their minds as they gazed upon this fort? What narratives would these stones reveal if they had the ability to speak?
Countless battles must have taken place here. Numerous rulers must have risen and fallen. Approximately 200 years later, after Behmanis, the Qutb Shahi dynasty ascended to power, followed by the Nizams who governed Hyderabad. Today, the atmosphere is tranquil. Yet, I found myself continually questioning: Who were the architects of these forts? Why is it named Taramati Mosque? How many centuries have these structures withstood? What mysteries lie within their confines? By the way, in the end, mysteries remained in want of proper archaeological displays.
Qutb Shahi Tombs Necropolis – A Forgotten Treasure Beside Golconda
After leaving the fort, we hired an auto-rickshaw and asked the driver to take us to the Qutb Shahi Tombs. Hyderabad’s auto-rickshaw drivers proved to be quite helpful, and the driver agreed to take us to the entrance for just ₹50. The tomb complex is barely 2 km from Golconda Fort.
After buying our entry tickets, we entered the complex. What greeted us was completely unexpected.
Spread before us was a vast, beautifully landscaped complex, with magnificent domes and mausoleums rising above the gardens. The scale and grandeur were far beyond what I had imagined.
The splendid and massive domes and tombs serve as the final resting places for the Qutb Shahi rulers. As I stood there, I pondered about five generations and seven rulers and how many tales of ambition and power were interred within these walls and beneath the earth. All the Qutub family are sleeping here except the last king, who was buried near Daultabad, where he died in the prison of Aurangzeb.
The Qutb Shahi Necropolis extends over approximately 106 acres and represents the final resting place of the rulers of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, who ruled Golconda for about 170 years during the 16th and 17th centuries.
The complex contains around 40 mausoleums, 19 funerary mosques, six baolis, or stepwells, a hammam, an Idgah, grave platforms, and numerous gardens.
As I progressed further, I observed the remains of medieval structures. Some have succumbed to the ravages of time. These monuments were erected by the Qutb Shahi rulers centuries ago, yet they still draw visitors today. I found myself pondering who visits to pay their respects to these rulers and how many truly understand the rich history behind these splendid edifices.
But for me, the most striking aspect was not simply the number of monuments. It was the atmosphere, like we feel in the Qutub Minar complex. A unique experience.
Walking among these magnificent tombs, sitting beneath the trees and looking at the domes rising above the gardens, I found myself imagining the lives of the kings, queens, and nobles who once ruled this powerful kingdom.
Golconda Fort tells the story of power and conquest. The tombs tell a quieter story—the story of how that power eventually came to rest.
From the Qutb Shahis, our journey then moved forward into the world of the Nizams.
Was Asaf Jah VIII, the last Nizam, called the world’s richest man? TIME magazine’s 22 February 1937 cover famously described him as “The Richest Man in the World.” He became Nizam in 1911 and ruled Hyderabad until 1948. His wealth was associated with Hyderabad’s enormous revenues, its diamond trade, landholdings, gold, and jewelry collections. His fortune has been estimated at around US$2 billion in the early 1940s, an enormous amount at that time. He famously owned the 185-carat Jacob Diamond (second after Koh-i-noor), which he reportedly used as a paperweight.
Chowmahalla Palace – Into the World of the Nizams
The construction of Chowmahalla Palace began during the reign of Asaf Jah I, around 1751.
When I first heard the name “Chowmahalla,” I assumed that it might mean a four-story palace. But the name actually refers to four mahals, or four palaces.
Originally, the complex was much larger, covering around 65 acres. It contained living quarters for the royal family, zenanas for the women of the household, grand halls for public audiences, and various administrative buildings.
After Asaf Jah II shifted the capital from Aurangabad to Hyderabad in the 18th century, successive Nizams added to and modified the palace complex.
Today, the surviving complex occupies around 12 acres. It includes Khilwat Mubarak; the four palaces—Afzal Mahal, Aftab Mahal, Mehtab Mahal, and Tahniyat Mahal; a grand clock tower; the Buggy Khana, containing the magnificent vehicles used by the Nizams; and several other heritage structures.
The palace received the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Award of Merit in 2010, recognizing its architectural and conservation significance.
Chowmahalla was the official seat of the Nizams, where royal durbars were held, dignitaries received audiences, and important administrative functions were conducted. As a tourist walking through the complex, I felt that the history of the much-heard-of Nizams was suddenly coming alive before my eyes.
I would not describe Chowmahalla as a conventional palace in the way one encounters the grand palaces of Rajasthan. Instead, it feels more like a royal complex designed for administration, ceremonial functions, entertaining guests, and accommodating members of the ruling family. The buildings are beautifully maintained, and the entire complex gives a strong sense of the late-medieval and early-modern royal world of Hyderabad.
For anyone visiting Hyderabad, Chowmahalla Palace is definitely a place not to be missed.
Purani Haveli – The Private World of the Nizams
Our next stop was Purani Haveli.
The palace was constructed for Asaf Jah III (1803–1829) by his father, Asaf Jah II.
Purani Haveli has European-style facades with traditional Indian courtyards. It also houses the Nizam’s Museum, which contains a fascinating collection of royal memorabilia.
Among the exhibits are antique furniture, gifts presented to the Nizams, gold-plated models of Hyderabad landmarks, and a vintage Rolls-Royce.
One of the most unusual attractions is the enormous walk-in, said to be the world’s longest, wardrobe associated with the Nizam.
The palace also has an important connection with the later Nizams. The sixth and seventh Nizams were born here and spent part of their early lives in the complex.
Interestingly, portions of Purani Haveli have also been used for educational institutions and technical training centers, giving this historic royal complex a life beyond its original purpose.
Charminar – The Icon of Hyderabad
No visit to Hyderabad is complete without seeing the Charminar, the city’s most enduring symbol. Built in 1591 by Sultan Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth Qutb Shahi ruler, it is closely associated with the founding and early development of Hyderabad.
Its history is a fascinating blend of fact and legend. It is popularly linked to the end of a plague and to the story of the Sultan’s meeting with Bhagmati. Another tradition connects its design with Shia religious symbolism.
Then there is the famous legend of a secret underground tunnel linking Charminar with Golconda Fort, supposedly built as an escape route for the royal family. Though no such tunnel has been conclusively found, the story adds to the mystery of this iconic monument.
Standing beneath its four majestic arches amid the bustling streets of the old city, one can easily understand why Charminar has become the very face of Hyderabad.
The surrounding area buzzed with energy—people bustling through the narrow lanes, shops lining the streets, and the vibrant sounds of the old city. It felt as if the Hyderabad of bygone centuries was still very much alive in this place.
Ramoji Film City – A Completely Different Hyderabad
After two days immersed in medieval forts, royal tombs, and Nizami palaces, our third day took us into a completely different world—Ramoji Film City. It was a full-day excursion and a striking contrast to everything we had seen during the first two days.
Here, Hyderabad’s story was no longer about kings, battles, and dynasties. It was about cinema, imagination, and the enormous scale of India’s film industry.
For visitors interested in films, sets, entertainment, and behind-the-scenes experiences, Ramoji Film City deserves an entire day rather than being squeezed into a shorter itinerary.
Salar Jung Museum
I found the Salar Jung Museum somewhat disappointing. Although it is historically significant, the collection seemed to lack standout artifacts that would make it a must-visit attraction today. We just found some paintings, walking sticks, a few sculptures, and ancient religious scripts (not sure if original). Not worth today. Many museums are now far ahead of it, for example, the Patna Museum.
Finally, DO NOT MISS visiting Bawarchi in Hyderabad. Even today, it remains one of the city’s most popular names for authentic Hyderabadi biryani. After spending days exploring the forts, palaces, tombs and museums of Hyderabad, sitting down to a steaming plate of fragrant biryani at Bawarchi feels like the perfect way to end the journey. The aroma, the spices and the unmistakable taste of Hyderabadi biryani make it an experience in itself. For me, a visit to Hyderabad would hardly be complete without tasting its legendary biryani.
Epilogue
The legacy of the Nizam is evident at every turn. Their opulence and splendor are still reflected in the palaces, monuments, and artifacts preserved throughout Hyderabad. However, as I stood amidst these historic structures, I sensed that Hyderabad was more than just a city of monuments—it was a place where history, culture, and daily life harmoniously coexist.
What I enjoyed most about Hyderabad was the extraordinary journey through time that the city offered. In just three days, we moved from the Kakatiya beginnings and the medieval world of Golconda to the Qutb Shahi dynasty, and then into the magnificent royal world of the Nizams.
The journey was not merely from one monument to another. It felt like moving through different chapters of Hyderabad’s history.
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