Big Island Hawaiʻi—A Land Sculpted by Fire

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Our trip was to Hawaiʻi Island, commonly known as the Big Island, the largest of the Hawaiian Islands. Although there are six other major islands in Hawaii, many of them can be explored on a 7-day cruise, which gives travelers a glimpse of several islands. Instead, we flew from San Francisco to Kona International Airport on the Big Island and planned to spend four leisurely nights with my son and his family exploring the island, allowing us more time to experience its landscapes, history, culture, and volcanoes.

The best recommended cruise is NCL Pride of America—7 days. The approximate cost is $3500 per person. It covers Maui, Big Island, Kaua’i, and O’ahu. It covers transportation on land, regular meals, coffee, a cabin, a swimming pool, a gym, and onboard activities.

Now let us first understand the geography of all the islands of Hawaii. There are a total of 137 islands, out of which 19 are main islands. We will discuss here only those that are covered by the cruise.

Chain of Hawaii islands- 11 of 137 islands. The cruise covers Maui, Big Island, Kaua'i and O'ahu.
Chain of Hawaii islands- 11 of 137 islands. The cruise covers Maui, Big Island, Kaua’i and O’ahu.

Hawaiʻi Island, or the Big Island, has about 200,000 people and is still growing because volcanic eruptions continue to add new land. It was formed by five major volcanoes: Kohala, Mauna Kea, Hualalai, Mauna Loa, and Kilauea. Mauna Loa and Kilauea are active volcanoes. Mauna Loa is the largest active volcano on Earth by volume, while Kilauea is one of the world’s most active volcanoes.

The roads across Hawaiʻi are spectacular
The roads across Hawaiʻi are spectacular

After Big Island we come across two small islands where the cruise does not stop, as they are small and dry islands. These are Kahoʻolawe and Lanaʻi. Lanaʻi is a small island with about 3,000–4,000 people. It was formed by a single volcano and is generally a dry island. Lānaʻi was once famous for its huge pineapple plantations and was known as the “Pineapple Island.”

Maui, with about 160,000 people, was formed by two volcanoes: Haleakala in the east and the West Maui Mountains in the west. The island has a remarkable variety of landscapes. Its windward areas receive heavy rainfall and support lush forests, while other parts are much drier. Haleakal, the enormous volcanic mountain in eastern Maui, rises to more than 10,000 feet above sea level.

Molokaʻi has a population of about 7,000 people and was formed by two volcanoes. It is famous for the spectacular sea cliffs of the northern coast, among the highest in the world, and for having the longest fringing coral reef in Hawaiʻi. The western part of the island is relatively dry, while the eastern side receives much more rain and is covered with lush forests.

Oʻahu is the most populated Hawaiian island, with about one million people. Its largest city is Honolulu, the capital of Hawaiʻi. Oʻahu was formed mainly by two large volcanoes, the Waiʻanae and Koʻolau volcanoes, whose remnants form the island’s dramatic mountain ranges.

Kauaʻi, known as the “Garden Island,” is one of the oldest major Hawaiian islands. Its high mountains force moist clouds to rise, producing enormous amounts of rain; Mount Waiʻaleʻale is one of the wettest places on Earth. Kauaʻi is famous for the spectacular Waimea Canyon, which was formed by volcanic activity and millions of years of erosion. The island is also one of the places where the earliest Polynesian settlers are believed to have established communities.

Niʻihau is known as the “Forbidden Island” because it is privately owned and ordinary tourists cannot visit freely. In 1864, the island was purchased by the Scottish-born Sinclair family, whose descendants, the Robinson family, still own it today. The Robinson family has allowed Native Hawaiians to continue living on the island and preserving their traditional way of life. Most of the Robinson family lives on nearby Kauaʻi. Niʻihau lies in a rain-shadow region, so it is one of the driest Hawaiian islands. The island has a small seasonal freshwater lake called Lake Halaliʻi.

This trip took us to Hawaiʻi Island, popularly known as the Big Island, the largest of the Hawaiian Islands. Although Hawaii has six other major islands, which are often explored together on a 7-day cruise, we chose a different approach. We flew from San Francisco to Kona International Airport on the Big Island and planned to spend four leisurely nights exploring the island, giving ourselves enough time to enjoy its remarkable landscapes, history, culture, and volcanoes.

When we began our journey through the Hawaiian Islands, one thing genuinely surprised me. We landed at Kona International Airport on the Big Island—a surprisingly small, simple, and rather charming airport. A free shuttle bus picked us up and dropped us at the car-rental centre, where we collected our rental car for the next five days and set off towards our resort.

Kona Airport
Ellison Onizuka Kona airport.

We had already booked our resort through Airbnb, located on the leeward—or drier—side of the Big Island, where rainfall is considerably lower than on the windward side. This side of the island is dotted with beautiful, world-class resorts set amid vast landscapes of dark brown and black lava rock, creating a dramatic contrast that makes for spectacular photographs. Most of these resorts offer excellent facilities, including swimming pools, restaurants, and other leisure amenities, making them ideal places to relax while enjoying the serene volcanic landscape.

But as we drove along, I couldn’t help feeling a little disappointed. Everywhere I looked, there seemed to be black volcanic lava—lava fields stretching across the landscape as far as the eye could see. The contrast was almost ironic: Hawaii, famous around the world for its lush tropical beauty, and here I was looking at what seemed like a vast sea of black rock!
I remember wondering, “Is this really what Hawaii is famous for?”

Mountains responsible for leeward and windward due to northeast trade winds blowing
Mountains responsible for leeward and windward due to northeast trade winds blowing

Fortunately, my son came to the rescue with a quick lesson in Hawaiian geography. He explained that the Big Island has windward and leeward sides. The windward side receives abundant rainfall and is therefore lush and green, while the leeward side lies in the rain shadow of the mountains and is much drier. Kona is on this drier, leeward side, where ancient and recent volcanic lava flows dominate the landscape.
Suddenly, the strange-looking landscape began to make sense. Hawaii wasn’t disappointing me—it was simply showing me another face of itself.

Understanding leeward and windward of the Hawaiian volcanic mountains
Understanding leeward and windward of the Hawaiian volcanic mountains

This trip was planned for four days, focusing exclusively on the Big Island. We got a useful map from ChatGPT showing the major places to visit, although it is neither possible nor necessary to cover all of them in just three days. Rather than rushing from one attraction to another, we decided to explore the island at a leisurely pace and enjoy its landscapes, history, and unique volcanic character.

And here begins the Big Island journey suggested by ChatGPT.

As a guide, places usually visited on Big Island
As a guide, places usually visited on Big Island

The free shuttle bus from the airport was waiting to drop us at the car rental point. We took the car, and the process took about one hour.

Our accommodation was already booked through Airbnb at Waikoloa Resort, and it turned out to be an excellent choice. The spacious resort had five bedrooms, a large living hall, a well-equipped kitchen with all the usual utensils, and a swimming pool, making it very comfortable for our family group. Since we were travelling with an infant and a young child, we kept our activities light and relaxed on the first day.

Waikoloa resort
Waikoloa resort

We drove from the resort to Kona village, which was about an hour and a half from our resort.

Stop at a Pacific scenic point
Stop at a Pacific scenic point at Kona Village

Kona Village, on the sunny western coast of Hawaiʻi Island, is known for its historic waterfront, small fishing boats, and relaxed Hawaiian atmosphere. Once an important center of traditional Hawaiian life and trade, the area today blends historic sites with restaurants, shops, and beautiful ocean views. Its spectacular sunsets and calm coastal setting make it one of the most charming places to experience the Kona side of the island.

Kona village as is called. In this village we can see Mokuaikaua Church and Hulihe'e Palace
Kona village as is called. In this village we can see Mokuaikaua Church and Hulihe’e Palace

Mokuʻaikaua Church in Kailua-Kona is regarded as Hawaiʻi’s first Christian church, with its congregation established by New England missionaries in 1820. The present stone church, completed in 1837, was built from lava rock and crushed coral mortar, with native ʻōhiʻa and koa wood used in its structure. Mokuaikaua Church
Its tall steeple has become a landmark of historic Kona, symbolizing the dramatic arrival of Christianity and Western influence in nineteenth-century Hawaiʻi.

Built in 1838, Huliʻeʻe Palace was originally the residence of Governor John Adams Kuakini and later became a favorite retreat of Hawaiian royalty.
The lava-rock palace witnessed the final decades of the Hawaiian Kingdom and today displays royal furniture, koa wood craftsmanship, portraits, quilts, and other Hawaiian artifacts. Go Hawaii Media
Its location directly opposite Mokuʻaikaua Church makes the two buildings a remarkable pair—the church representing the missionary era and the palace representing Hawaiian royalty.

Honokaʻa is a charming historic town on the Hamakua Coast, once a thriving sugar-cane community and today known for its old-fashioned main street, small shops, galleries, and local restaurants.

Honakaa town
Honakaa town

It is the gateway to the spectacular Waipiʻo Valley, making it an important stop on the Hamakua Heritage Corridor. The town is also famous for Tex Drive-In (food stop in Honokaʻa) and its malasadas, the Portuguese-style doughnuts that have become a local culinary tradition.

Spectacular Waipiʻo Valley
Spectacular Waipiʻo Valley

Waipiʻo, meaning “curved water,” is one of Hawaiʻi Island’s most spectacular valleys, enclosed by enormous green cliffs and opening toward a black-sand coastline.
Known as the “Valley of the Kings,” it was an important political and spiritual center and was the boyhood home of Kamehameha I, who later united the Hawaiian Islands.
Its fertile valley floor, taro fields, waterfalls, and streams reveal how closely traditional Hawaiian life was connected with the land and water.

Waikoloa Beach
Waikoloa Beach

Waikoloa Beach is best known for ʻAnaehoʻomalu Bay (A-Bay), a beautiful Kohala Coast beach framed by palm trees and ancient Hawaiian fishponds.
The calm, clear waters make it popular for snorkeling, kayaking, paddle sports, and sunset walks, while the surrounding lava landscape shows the volcanic character of the Big Island.
What makes the area especially interesting for a history-focused traveler is the combination of luxury resort development, ancient fishponds, and nearby petroglyphs—modern Hawaiʻi sitting directly on top of its ancient Hawaiian landscape.

Kapaʻau is a small historic town in North Kohala, close to the area where King Kamehameha I was born, and is best known for its connection with Hawaiʻi’s first king.
In front of the North Kohala Civic Center/old courthouse stands the original Kamehameha I statue, created in Europe in 1880 and later recovered after the ship carrying it sank near the Falkland Islands.

Kapaʻau town where Kamehameha I, the king who united Hawaii, was born
Kapaʻau town where Kamehameha I, the king who united Hawaii, was born

Kamuela, also known as Waimea, is a highland town in the northern part of Hawaiʻi Island, famous for its rolling green pasturelands and strong paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) heritage.

Wimea landscape
Wimea landscape

The area developed around the great ranching tradition of the Parker Ranch, one of the largest and most historically important cattle ranches in Hawaiʻi.

A stop at Wimea. Behind is mighty Pacific ocean
A stop at Waimea. Behind is mighty Pacific ocean

Today, Kamuela (Waimea) is a pleasant contrast to the island’s volcanic landscapes, combining ranch country, Hawaiian history, farmers’ markets, galleries, and a cooler climate at about 2,600 feet elevation.

Akaka Falls is one of Hawaii Island’s most spectacular waterfalls, plunging about 442 feet into a lush tropical gorge.

Akaka Falls is most spectacular waterfalls
Akaka Falls is most spectacular waterfalls

Located on the rainy Hamakua Coast, the surrounding forest is filled with bamboo, orchids, ferns, and other tropical vegetation. A short scenic trail through the rainforest leads to viewpoints of the dramatic waterfall. These are about 200 steps deep inside through a man-made pessage.

Kaumana Caves near Hilo are part of a huge lava tube formed by the 1881 eruption of Mauna Loa, when flowing lava carved tunnels beneath the surface. Visitors can enter the cave through a collapsed section of the lava tube and walk through its dark, rugged interior surrounded by lava formations. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the underground pathways created by volcanic eruptions.

Kaumana Caves near Hilo are part of a huge lava tube formed in 1881
Kaumana Caves near Hilo are part of a huge lava tube formed in 1881

Thurston Lava Tube, known traditionally as Nahuku, was formed when the outer surface of a lava flow cooled and hardened while molten lava continued flowing underneath.
When the eruption ended, the molten lava drained away, leaving behind a natural tunnel that visitors can walk through. It is one of the most accessible and popular volcanic features in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.

Thurston Lava Tube in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park
Thurston Lava Tube in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park protects a remarkable landscape created by active volcanoes, including Kilauea and Mauna Loa, ranging from lush rainforest to stark lava fields.
The park allows visitors to see craters, lava tubes, volcanic vents and vast landscapes that reveal the continuing process of island formation.

Kilauea volcano map, in Hawaii Volcanoes National park
Kilauea volcano map, in Hawaii Volcanoes National park

It is also culturally significant to Native Hawaiians, particularly because Kilauea is closely associated with Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes.

Halema'uma'u Crater of Kilaue Volcano, in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
In daylight-Halema’uma’u Crater of Kilaue Volcano, in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Kilauea is one of the world’s most active volcanoes and has played a major role in continuously adding new land to Hawaiʻi Island. Its summit contains the enormous Kilauea Caldera, within which is Halemaʻumaʻu, a crater famous for its volcanic activity and cultural connection with Pele.

In night-Halema'uma'u Crater of Kilaue Volcano, in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
In night-Halema’uma’u Crater of Kilaue Volcano, in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park


For visitors, Kilauea provides a rare opportunity to witness the powerful geological forces that are still creating and reshaping the Hawaiian landscape.

As I travelled through Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, Hilo, Laupahoehoe, Waipiʻo and Hawi, on eastern side of Big island (North east tradewind windward regions) I was struck by the sheer expanse of greenery surrounding me. Everywhere, the stark volcanic landscape seemed to have transformed into lush forests, rolling green hills and vibrant vegetation—a sight that made me understand why Hawaiʻi draws travelers from around the world throughout the year.

Rain forests in Hawaii covering 40% of the area
Rain forests in Hawaii covering 40% of the area

I truly wondered: How could an island born entirely from lava, with vast stretches of seemingly barren volcanic rock, possibly be covered by nearly 40% forest?
My curious traveler’s soul was compelled to dig deeper—to discover how soil was formed on these young, volcanic islands and how life gradually transformed barren lava into lush, dense forests.

Like this, the lava rocks look
Like this, the lava rocks look

And this is how the soil is formed as mother of the rain forests in windward area.

From lava rocks to rain forest
From lava rocks to rain forest

Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach is famous for its striking black shore, created when hot lava entered the ocean, cooled rapidly and shattered into tiny fragments. The beach is also known for its green sea turtles, which often rest along the shoreline. I see a lot of cars parked and people so busy in phography to keep these moments in their lifetime for ever. Thanks Hawaii and Gaurav, my son for driving us to these distant places.

Black sand sea beach on eastern coast of island
Black sand sea beach on eastern coast of island

Hilo, on the lush eastern coast of the Big Island, is the island’s largest town and a gateway to waterfalls, rainforests and volcanic landscapes. It is exceptionally green.Known for its historic downtown, farmers’ markets and rich Hawaiian culture, Hilo receives abundant rainfall, making the surrounding landscape exceptionally green.

Ka Lae, the southernmost tip of the Big Island, is the southernmost point of the United States, into the Pacific Ocean. I saw a lot of cars parked and so many tourists eager for their selfies. There is no building here, no board saying it is southernmost point. The area is windy all the time it seems, and rugged, with strong ocean currents and ancient Hawaiian fishing traditions. Though I did not see any fishing activity here.

Standing on the last southernmost tip of USA
Ka Le-Standing on the last southernmost tip of USA

Our Helicopter Adventure

We opted for Blue Hawaiians helicopter starting from Kona
We opted for Blue Hawaiians helicopter starting from Kona -with my relatives

It was our last day on the Big Island. We had opted for 1 hour 45-minute flight which combines volcanic landscapes with the lush rainforests, waterfalls and deep valleys. In fact, we had booked the helicopter tour

Over the water streams
Over the water streams

for our very first day, but the flight kept getting cancelled because of unfavourable weather conditions. To

Inside a 5-seater helicopter
Inside the 5-seater helicopter

us, the weather often looked perfectly fine, but helicopter flights over Hawaiʻi are particularly sensitive to cloud cover, wind and visibility, especially when the route passes over the wet rainforests and deep valleys; the operators therefore have to wait for safe flying conditions before giving the final go-ahead.

Over the wet regions—windward regions
Over the wet regions—windward regions

Finally, the day arrived, and since this was our first helicopter experience, we were naturally a little

View of Hilo town from top
View of Hilo town from top

nervous and excited at the same time. After a safety briefing by the operators about the flight, precautions and things to keep in mind, we boarded the helicopter.

Mauna Loa inactive volcano
Mauna Loa inactive volcano

The seats were comfortable, and seating was assigned by the crew to help balance the helicopter’s weight. Passengers were generally asked not to carry loose articles inside the helicopter; only essential items such as a water bottle were permitted, subject to the operator’s rules.

Active Kīlauea Volcano—Helicopters are not allowed to fly over it
Active Kilauea Volcano—Helicopters are not allowed to fly over it

I have tried to capture the experience through just a few photographs, as the scenery was truly spectacular at every turn. However, it is simply not possible to include all the beautiful views and moments in a single blog.

Helicopter Tour Cost

We found two major operators offering Big Island helicopter tours:

  • Blue Hawaiian Helicopters — offers tours from Waikoloa and Hilo, with longer Big Island tours covering both the lush valleys and volcanic landscapes. The Big Island Spectacular was listed at around $719 per person.
  • Rainbow Helicopters — offers flights from Kona, including coastal, rainforest and volcano tours.

60–75 minute flight cost about $449 per person and concentrated mainly on the spectacular rainforest valleys and waterfalls. The longer which we opted for approximately two-hour flight, costing around $719 per person, covered both the lush rainforest valleys and the dramatic volcanic landscape of the Big Island. I recommend for 2 hour fligh only.

Epilogue

Our four-day journey across Hawaiʻi Island, the Big Island, began with curiosity and ended with a high high appreciation of how nature, history and culture have shaped this extraordinary place. We came expecting to see volcanoes and beautiful beaches, but the island offered much more—ancient Hawaiian traditions, royal history, historic towns, lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls, black-sand beaches and vast landscapes born from lava.
What fascinated me most was the island’s remarkable transformation. How can barren volcanic rock, created by fire and molten lava, eventually become fertile soil and support dense forests? Travelling through Hilo, the Hamakua Coast, Waipiʻo, Kohala, Kona and Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park made this question even more intriguing. The island seemed to tell its own story—from lava and volcanic eruptions to soil, vegetation, forests and finally human settlement.
The helicopter ride on our final day provided a fitting finale.
Hawai island trip is defenitely one of the most expensive trip as hotels, car rentals, daily use commodities and eatables are very costly.

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