Jordan- A Calm In Maelstorm

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Jordan is a unique place as compared to other middle east countries as it is historically connected to Jews, Christians, Muslim, Greek and Roman cultures. It has the historical place like Cannan the place where Jews Legend Abraham decided to move on order of God, Jerusalem and Bethlehem. It has a river Jordan and three more of its tributaries Jabok, Arnun, Yamuk.

The history of Jordan is studied as classical era and Islamic era.

History of Jordan
Jordan History timeline – These are very rough time lines just to give a basic idea

Greeks had founded three cities- Philadelphia (Amman), Gerasa (Jerash), Gadara (Umm Qais) and Romans added 7 more cities after 400 years. These cities were developed for ease of trade and culture exchange. The 10 cities founded by Greeks and Romans till 2nd century AD were called Decapolish League.

The three cities founded by Greeks in 3rd century BC and later 7 more were founded by Romans.

Greeks, Nabateans, Romans and Ummayads also built here desert castles, temples and mosques. Here are some important castles which visitors must see while in Jordan.

Important Desert castles in Jordan

Of the few Greek castles Iraq al-Amir and Qasr al-Abd castles are built of large stones and even have sculptures of lion and eagles. Quseir Amra castle was built by Ummayad ruler in beginning of 8th century. It is an example of Islamic art and architecture. This castle is designated UNESCO heritage site. Above map we can see two castles built by Ottoman empire in 16th century. These castles were built in order to provide shelter and water to pilgrims. Ajloun Castle and Kerak Castle are two crusader’s castles in Jordan. Between 1096-1271 was a religion war Crusade of Christians over Islam. It was to recover holy land from Islam.

As Christianity gradually became an accepted religion of the area in the fourth century, churches and chapels began to sprout up across Jordan in Byzantine period. As a sign of prosperity we can see splendid mosaics on floor of churches. We can see such mosaics in Madaba.

Thereafter Ayyubid and Mamluks ruled here. But after Mongol invasion in 1258 they weakened and Ottoman empire established itself for next 400 years. They built a series of square fortresses at Qasr Qatraneh, and Qal’at Hasa to protect pilgrims from the desert tribes and to provide them with sources of food and water.

The Mysterious Nabateans

They existed in Jordan till Romans annexed them in 106 AD. But Yes. Nabateans are mystery as they belonged to Bedouin shepherd tribes of Arab desert and they owe one of the seven new wonders of world “Petra”. It is unbelievable. It was designated wonder in 2007 by 100 million votes. They are mysterious that they existed only from 400 BC to 106AD and were just poor nomads moving one pasture to other and in search of water. Nabateans carved grandiose buildings, temples and tombs out of solid sandstone rock. They also constructed a wall to fortify the city. The origin of Nabateans is not clear. Some say they were revoltee tribe of Assyria region who settled in Palestine region while some say they were from Yemen etc.

Islamic Era

The same set of rulers ruled in Palestine, Iraq and Syria region. Before its independence Jordan and Israel were Palestine as shown in map below. The region converted to Muslim in 7th Century when Ummayads attacked here. Let us now have a look at who influenced region of Palestine from time of arrival of Islam till its Independence.

Umayyad Caliphate (661–750 CE) – These Sunni ruled in this region for about 90 years. They constructed caravan stops (caravanserais), bath houses, hunting complexes and palaces in the eastern Jordanian desert. These palaces are collectively known as the “Desert Castles”. The fall of Ummayad was due to their cruelty, one man rule, immorality and rise of Abbasid.

Abbasid Caliphate (750-1258 AD)- They descendants of Mohammad’s uncle and so are Sunni. They founded Baghdad. They enjoyed religious caliphs status and were indirect and influential rulers of the Iraq-Palestine region. The political power of the caliphs curtailed with the rise of the Iranian Buiyds Nomad tribes (Shia) in 945 AD and Seljuq Turks (Sunni) 1055 AD. The status and treatment of Jews, Christians, and non-Muslims in the Abbasid Caliphate was not good and they were forced to pay zaziya, a tax for not being a Muslim.

From 1258-1508 Mongols ruled. They were from Central Asia regions and were non Muslims. They invaded Iraq-Palestine in 1258 AD, captured Baghdad, killed about a million of people of this region, burnt mosques, houses, libraries. After Mongols for a short period of 26 years Safavids ruled up to 1534. Being for short time there was none of their impact on this region.

In 1534 Palestine was conquered by the Ottoman Empire. Conquest of Ottoman empire was win of Sunni over Shia majority in this region.

Let now see the Jordan during World war. After WW-I Great Britain was given mandate of Palestine by League of Nations.

Taken from Creative commons

Abdullah-I (see the chart below) joined Arab Nationalist movement and fought for separate Arab state consisting of Arab, Syria, Iraq and Jordan. During World War II he actually sided with British forces and assisted British in occupying Syria and and Iraq in 1941. In 1946 Jorden was created by British as promised and Abdullah-I became first king of Jordan. He was the only one in Arab to accept UNO partitioning of Palestine into Jordan and Jew state in 1948. He was seen as liberal thinker by west. In fact he was supporter of Peel Commission, 1937 which proposed 20% of Palestine mandate for Jews and rest as Transjordan. But due to threatening opposition by surrounding Arab countries it could not materialize.

Modern jordan rulers
Rulers of Jordan claim their direct descendence of Hashemite (Muhammad’s son-in-law)- Shia sect

Even he went to the extent of having secret pact with Israel for annexing Syria, Iraq, Lebanon also and then carving Jew state. So Abdullah-I was great stateman of Jordan and was an innovative and independent thinker. In 1948 war Abdullah I seized West Bank and East Jerusalem and named the region from Transjordan to Jordan.

After assassination of Abdullah I in Jerusalem his son Hussein Talal took over. We can say that if Abdullah -I carved Jordan, his son Hussein Talal built modern Jordan. Talat had the problems of Palestine refugee, Arab-Israel conflict, pressures from USSR and West. Hussein led his country through four turbulent decades and made it a stable politically. He was extremely popular leader in Jordan and it was largest gathering in world in his funeral.

Abdullah -II, the current monarch of Jordan liberalized economy. In 2008 there was great recession globally. During Arab Spring of 2011, Jordan also on street protests but unlike Syria, Abdulla-II handled by many reforms and change in about one-third constitution. We can understand the maturity of this leader in an interview to BBC when he said-

“Had he been in Al-Asad shoe he would have resigned. Any protest met with violence does not end well.” Jordan is under heavy pressure due to huge influx of refugees from Syria. Abdullah-II also took many steps for administrative, economy measures. Debt to GDP ratio, free trade increased exports.

Epilogue

Jordan stands single out among Middle East country as in spite of being sandwich between middle east unstable & terror torn countries (maelstrom) and on other side Israel, this is able to maintain political stability, PEACE, terrorist free zone since thousands of years. There is monarchy with Abdullah family ruling since 1882 till today. Abdullahs managed its freedom cleverly that Palestinians should have learned from them.
This is UNIQUE about Jordan. Till now heaven for tourists and Land of New 7 wonders of world (Petra) and old desert castles. The new challenges Jordan may face now is weakened ISIS may take radicalization in Jordan also.
This article is about a minimum history a tourist should know about Jordan to appreciate their ancient ruins and Petra.

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