As a visitor I notice that there is no effort to protect this fort from besmirch. It is sad and disappointing to see this fort. This fort holds typical rich history but a visitor can not identify any spots of incidents, graves of Vikrama Rajasinha, last king of Srilanka, Europeans graves, killing of Aravidu dynasty plot, prisons, Hyder and Tipu mahal and the prison where Tipu family was kept. We can not see Hyder and Tipu mahal as these are in premises of Police department.
Vellore fort was built in 1566 by last rulers of Tuluva dynasty of Vijaynagar empire. It was later captured by Bijapur rulers, Marathas and British and the French till India gained independence. It has one of the most robust walls and moat visible from road. It was built by Chinna Bommi Reddy and Thimma Reddy Nayak.
This journey to Vellore was planned as flying visit to Vellore Golden temple and Vellore fort on return to Bengaluru from Tiruvannamalai.
After spending 2 nights in Tiruvannamalai we took a train to Vellore (VLR). Just in 1 hour 15 minutes we got down at Vellore railway station. There is no cloakroom facility at Vellore railway station.
We all 7 headed to Lakshmi Narayani (Goddess Lakshmi, consort of Lord Vishnu) temple, 8 KM from station by 7 seater auto. Vellore Fort is just 3 KM from Vellore station and 8 KM from Katpadi railway station.
How to reach
Vellore and Katpadi are well connected by train and bus from Pondicherry, Chennai and Bangalore. Nearest airport is Chennai. Golden temple is 16 KM from Katpadi and 8 KM from Vellore railway station. We took 7 seater auto for Rs. 250 to reach from Vellore railway station to Golden temple. From Katpadi full 7 seater auto takes Rs. 450. If you are on flying visit you can deposit all your luggage in cloak room available in Golden temple premises and pay a flying visit to see Vellore fort which is 8 KM from temple.
How much time needed to visit Vellore Fort
There are many points to see in Vellore. Distances from Vellore railway station are Vellore fort (3 KM), Golden temple (8 KM), Margabandeeswarar Temple (18 KM). You can cover all distances by auto. Total it will take maximum 6 hours. Vellore Fort will take an hour as you have to walk on foot. 90% of Vellore fort is restricted government owned department mainly Police and para military. The strictures marked in red are only visible. ASI has left no traces to identify any structures inside.
Where to stay
I saw many good and average hotels in Vellore in all tariffs. It is a neat place and not so crowded. Near golden temple also cheap to high range hotels are available. Food available is average. Just adjacent to temple is a good restaurant.
About Fort
There are a lot of lucrative You Tube videos and wikipedia which exaggerate about this fort but what I saw is that except the huge double walls with moat, bastions and Jala-gandeeswar (Lord Shiva in water) Temple, all the old buildings of British time are in completely dilapidated, neglected and unsecured state. The entire fort is occupied by government department such as police and ASI. It is surprising to see that there is ASI museum and office here but under their nose all the old buildings are in most miserable state. I have not seen any fort in such miserable and insulted state.
History of Fort
Vijaynagar empire ruled in all south India except little of north Karnataka, little of north Andhra,whole Maharastra. Other kingdoms such as Hoysala Empire, Kakatiya dynasty, Madurai Sultanate, Pandyan dynasty, Reddy dynasty were at decline. Behmani kingdom (feudatory of Allaudin Khilji as a result of revolt), Kartiks in Orissa were their neighbor kingdoms. There were frequent wars between Behmani and Vijay Nagar empire. Finally Behmani was responsible for plunder of Vijaynagar.
Sangama Dynasty (1336-1485)
Saluva Dynasty (1485-1505)
Tuluva Dynasty (1505-1570) – Krishna Deva Raya was in this dynasty. Last king engaged in Battle of Talikota which resulted in destruction of Hampi.
Aravidu Dynasty (1570-1646) – Capital shifted to Penukonda, Andhra
Decline of Vijaynagar started in 1565 till end in 1646.
The fort is famous for a family dispute Battle of Toppur in 1616 for throne. The Tuluva dynasty was succeeded by the Aravidu dynasty, and there was battle in which whole family was killed in fort. The Battle of Toppur is one of the major battles in Indian history as it used cannons on a very large scale causing heavy destruction.
In 1650, Thirumali Nayak of Madurai feared attack from Vijaynagar Empire and so colluded with Bijapur Sultan to gain control of the fort. But after about 2 decades the fort saw a 14-month-long siege at the Vellore fort. Shivaji marched with a cavalry of 2000 and an infantry of nearly 5000. He strategically built two small forts called “Sajra” and “Gojra” at a distance of about two kms from the Vellore fort at a higher elevation to the Vellore fort. It is said that about 400 of the 500 people who were guarding the fort were killed before general of Bijapur Sultan defending the fort that time and surrendered it to the Marathas in 1678.
Following the battle of Plassey in 1757, the British gained dominance over major areas in India and took control of the fort with relative ease. The British defended the fort against the forces of Hyder Ali in 1782 and after defeating Tipu Sultan here in 1799, even detained his sons, daughters, wife and mother here.
The Vellore Fort is also last destination of last ruling monarch of Sri Lanka, Sri Vikrama Rajasinha (1798–1815) when he and his family were kept here as prisoners of war for 17 years. His grave can now be found in the fort along with the last Raya kings of the Vijayanagara Empire.
These below are the two structures remaining inside fort. Visitors come here, see the map of fort installed by ASI but are unable to locate any building as none is marked.
There is a gigantic Jalakandeeshwara (Lord Shiva in water) temple inside fort. This is magnificent and well maintained by a trust. The Lord Shiva statue was once shifted from here to protect it from Muslim invaders but again installed here in 1981 in spite of ASI protest to keep the antiquity of temple. It is said that this Shiva linga is “Swayam Bhu” and was an ant hill surrounded by stagnant water. So it is called Jala Kandeeshwara. That time controlling chieftain of Vijaynagar empire had dream in which Lord Shiva ordered him to build temple (1540-1572).
There is one church, St. John’s church in fort premises. This was built by Government of Madras in 1846 for East India company officers.
Beside church there is a twin building called Badshah and Begum mahal. Why it is named so no one knows. Currently these are converted into museum which was locked when I visited. The mosque was built in 1750 by some Nawab Chanda Sahab.
ASI Government Museum inside the fort is also there apart from Badshah and Begum mahal museum. This was also locked. This does not look to me maintained sincerely and professionally and somehow I entered here. Staff also here was very rude.
Neglected Buildings inside the fort
These are British buildings which are left completely unattended and walls are not falling. It is so surprising to see the negligence of department. Neither are the boards here to display what these buildings are. No one knows about it when I asked few residents here. The doors of buildings were open and rooms were stinking.
All these British time office buildings are gone to dogs. No one is there to take care.
Epilogue
From outside this fort looks gigantic, majestic and robust with moat, high and wide walls but unfortunately insides of the fort seem were not preserved or lost with time, callous attitude and may be by allowing public offices inside the fort. Only temple is preserved due to interest of locals. Other buildings are of British time and are left to dogs. There is map installed by ASI but I was unable to locate the buildings as most of the buildings are not marked. The people living inside are unable to help you and get irritated if we ask more.
Reference for history – https://www.indianculture.gov.in/
Post # 246
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