हो कल मैं नहीं रहूँगा लेकिन जब होगा अँधियारा
तारो में तू देखेगी, हँसता एक नया सितारा – गीतकार शैलेंद्र
Location
Haldighati, a pilgrimage for Indians, an icon of patriotism is just 45 KM from Udaipur, Rajasthan, India. Udaipur was capital of Mewar kingdom and established by Udai Singh II, father of Rana Pratap. The nearest airport is Maharana Pratap airport 25 KM from Udaipur and is 330 KM from Jaipur. It is well connected by road and rail from all cities of India.
We can stay in Udaipur and one day we can reserve for trip to Haldighati, Kumbhalgarh fort and Ranakpur temple to return by 9 PM to Udaipur same day.
What to see in Haldighati
There is much to see in Haldighati than I expected. When I was planning to see this place I thought a museum and pass are the only two things to see. But on actually touching the place I came to know there are also few more sites connected to Haldighati – Rakt Talai, Chetak horse memorial, Rana Pratap statue and Badshahi Bagh. All these are in radius of 3 KM. Do not miss any of them to understand Haldighati.
Time needed to see
2.5 hours
Opening time
Museum is open from 8 AM to 6 PM all 7 days. Entry fee is a bit high Rs.150 but it is maintained well by private trust.
Our itinerary in Udaipur
We hired a RTDC taxi for 2nd day trip to Haldighati, Kumbhalgarh fort and Ranakpur . We missed Nathdwara temple as same day we can not cover it.
Where to stay in Udaipur
We booked online for RTDC hotel Kajri. You can book online at link- RTDC hotel booking. This is an average hotel and principally I stay in government run hotels even if they are average. Restaurant is good, breakfast is complimentary always – poori bhaji, aloo-paratha, phoha, bread pakoda etc. South dishes are not available here.
About Haldighati
Mewar was the only Rajputana state which did not entertain any suzerainty of Mughals. They were so proud of their blood that they never married any of their royal daughters to Mughals. Amar Singh I was the first Rana to accept the tie with Mughals in 1615 AD, 18 years after death of his father Maharana Pratap. but with condition that there will be no marital connections between the two powers.
Maharana Pratap was born on May,9, 1540 at Kumbhalgarh fort. He was eldest son of Maharana Uday Singh II who established Udaipur as Mewar capital. He breathed his last on Jan,19, 1597 and Chawand at his capital during exile. His archrival Mughal emperor Akbar also moved to tear when Maharana passed away.
The building in Kumbhalgarh fort where Rana Pratap was born
Akbar after waiting for 3 years for Mewar submission, Akbar sent Raja Man singh to persuade Maharana Pratap for submission. Rana Pratap ageed to sign the treaty but on his own terms that he will not tolerate any supremacy of Mughals. So this lead to Haldigahti war.
As per ASI board in Akbar Fort, the complete planning was done in the middle hall called Diwan-e-Khas inside inside Akbar Fort in Ajmer. Rana Pratap fear was so much that Akbar chose the city of Holy Dargah to discuss the plan. This is the same hall where Jahangir did the blunder of giving official permission (firmaan) to British Sir Thomas roe to open door of business to East India Company.
Since I saw all the venues in Haldighati and I think the Haldighati pass might be one of venue of fight but major fight was done at field of Rakt Talai about 2 KM from pass. I do not have information about exact significance of this pass when the actual fight was done at Rakt Talai.
Venue of fierce war was at Rakt-Talai (Pool of blood) about 3 KM from this pass. On 18th June 1576, the forces of Rana Pratap and Akbar met at Haldighati pass. The Mughal army plunged in dismay by valor of Rana Pratap small army. Rana Pratap was wounded while Chetak was able to save him to safer place. Maan Singh was able to kill Jhala Maan Singh, a commander thinking him as Rana Pratap.
Luckily a guide was available at Rakt Talai premises and he introduced us to the story of war. He showed us Rakt Talai venue and cenotaphs of warriors who sacrificed their lives for sake of Mewar.
There is a cenotaph of two sons of Ram Shah Tanwar who had taken refuge in Mewar as his state was taken over by Mughals, and Afghan warrior Hakim Khan Sur who sacrificed their lives in Rakt Talai.
The haldighati pass war for 6 hours only. After and before the war the Mughal army set up their camp in Badshahi bagh. Badshahi bagh is the area where Mughal army first setup their tents after realizing the difficulties of Haldighati. This bagh is now declared as protected monument of national importance by Government of India.
Epilogue
It takes some time to understand Haldighati. There are 3-4 sites and we have to corelate them with the story of war. Fortunately ASI boards are there on each site – Museum, Rakt Talai and Badshahi garden. In spite of guide and driver unfortunately I could not reach Chetak memorial.
शहीदों की चिताओं पर जुड़ेंगे हर बरस मेले
वतन पर मरनेवालों का यही बाक़ी निशाँ होगा I
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