The Rathore kings of Marwar are Rajputs, a term that denotes their status as descendants of Kshatriyas, the traditional Hindu warrior caste. Within Rajputs, The Rathores are Suryavanshi Rajputs who claim descent from Sun. They count one of their ancestors as Lord Rama, an avatar of Hindu God Lord Krishna.
The Rathores arrived in desert tracts of Western India during 13th century, in wake of invading armies from their ancestral territories in India. Northern plains. By 15th century they established powerful kingdom and built a walled city – Jodhpur- with massive Mehrangarh fort. The prosperity of Rathores, owed largely to Rathores control over lucrative trade routes but attracted the attention of the two successive empires that ruled India- The Mughals (1526-1857) and British (1858-1947). Both encounters would reshape Jodhpur’s cultural landscape, expanding the Rathore’s interaction with external world and introducing objects, artilleries, architectural styles, language and system of administration.
Location
Jodhpur, once capital of Kingdom of Marwar, is a city in state of Rajasthan, India. It is in Thar desert. In summer temperatures can exceed 42 °C, and during the winter they may dip to zero. The city is famous as blue city and we can see this from the top of Mehrangarh fort. 600 years ago the city was within four wall of fort and later expended outside the walls.
Roads are in good condition and city is well connected by buses and trains. There is domestic airport.
How to reach fort
Autos take Rs.600 to take you to fort in 30 minutes from RTDC Ghoomar. From parking you can walk just few meters to reach entry ticket counter. You can either walk on foot about 1KM to reach top of fort or optionally use lift. Lift charges per person is Rs.150. If you want to go on foot from city to fort from city, there is another route.
History
I have mentioned the history and genealogy of kingdom of Jaisalmer at link – ‘A glance at rajasthan rajput dynasties‘. This fort belonged to Kingdom of Marwar. The Jodhpur city was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief of the Rathore clan. Jodha succeeded in conquering the surrounding territory from the Delhi Sultanate and thus founded a kingdom which came to be known as Marwar. As Jodha hailed from the nearby town of Mandore, that town initially served as the capital of this state but soon was taken over by Jodhpur even in period of Rao Jodha. The city was located on the strategic road linking Delhi to Gujarat. This enabled it to profit from a flourishing trade in opium, copper, silk, sandalwood, dates, and other tradeable goods.
During Maharaja Maldeo period this fort was captured by Sher Shah Suri for an year and after Maldeo recovered he strengthened the walls and gates. Second major renovation was by Maharaja Ajit Singh (1707-24AD) when he added more buildings inside the fort.
Our Itinerary
Exploring this fort was part of our 18 days trip to Rajasthan. After spending three days in Jaisalmer we caught 03.10 PM train to reach Jodhpur at 8.30 PM. We came out of the railway station and just walking few meters got auto for Rs.200 to drop us at RTDC Ghoomer hotel (3 KM). This hotel is in huge compound, restaurant and rooms are OK.
Time required to visit Mehrangarh fort
3-4 hours. Entry into fort is Rs.500 and additionally Rs.150 if you want to use lift.
Best time to visit
October to March end
Where to stay
I stay always in state’s Government tourist department hotels. They are average but have good restaurant spacious airy rooms and big and green premises. Renovation was going on and room was not in good state but it was OK for me. If rush is less or off season they prepare lunch as per your individual order. Breakfast is normally included in tariff. In North India they usually serve you aloo paratha, curd or poori-bhaji. We stayed in hotel Ghoomar of RTDC.
Hotel booking – https://rtdc.tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/client/hotellist.aspx
About fort
Mehran means sun and Mehrangarh fort means fort of Sun. This fort is on the hill. I think the steep and height is 40% of Amer Fort. In Amer we have to take jeep after reaching the parking place but here autos can reach just near the ticket counter. The life goes up to top of roof. By seeing the rooms, balconies, porticos, open places we can identify the differences in living style of kingdoms of Jaisalmer and Mewar. The fort is quite comparable to Junagarh fort of Bikaner.
We had taken a guide for Rs.500 from the ticket counter itself. The guide looked to be in hurry but it is always better to hire guides in forts and palaces. Let us now roam inside and see how medieval kings of Marwar lived.
There are seven gates in the fort.
Shringar Chowk -The anointment courtyard
The decorative carving is richly decorated with red stone. The façade of the upper floor form a continuous perforated screen, through which women could watch the proceedings in Shringar chowk. The proceedings included the naming and coronation of the new rulers, for which marble throne in the chowk was employed.
Howdah – From first millennium until 19th century elephants played a significant role in warfare and ceremonies. They could trample men and horses alike, pickup and throw horses and men together.
There is a gallery displayed in fort with fine elephants seats which are the best in world ever.
A unique piece here is silver howdah presented by Mughal king Jahangir to Maharaja Jaswant Singh (1639-78) of Jodhpur with an elephant and 100 horses on Dec,18, 1657.
Palanquins (Palki) – Were a popular means of travel for nobilities, up to second quarter of 20th century. They were though used by male members only on special occasions. They were made of wood or metal. On reaching the destination, the royal occupants were halted in waiting room until the necessary arrangements were done as per royal etiquettes.
Daulatkhana – Mehrangarh museum has unique importance as repository of artistitic and cultural history of large area of central rajashan, Marwar-Jodhpur ruled by Rathore dynasty.
The gallery of Daulatkhana displayes the best preserved collection of fine and applied arts of Mughal and Rajput period of Indian history, during which time both had close links arms, textiles, decorative arts, paintings, manuscripts are kept here.
Noteworthy among them is sword of Akbar, the Mahadol Planquin (palki), woven tent screens, embroidered tent hanging, the embroidered jama. As we go through these artifacts we also walk past 500 years of rathore history and culture.
Some more artifacts kept in Daulatkhana
Shield – Leather covered with cotton fabric, richly decorated with silver thread, beeds and with semi precious stones. 19th century – Marwar
Helmet – Steel helmet with chiseled inscription, applied nasal plume holder and finial, gold overlaid decoration, riveted nail neck guard.
Katar – Straight trianguar blade with reinforced point. Bright steel edges with hollow central watered steel panel. There is a chiseled and gold inlaid elephant-head motif at the forte. 17th century Bijapur
Betel box – A chinese beetle box coated with combination of blue and mint blue enamel work. – 19th century China
Chilam and Huqqa Spout – It is Indegenious design- a beautifully sculpted lady is coming out from the mouth of a crocodile(makar-mukh). 18-19th century rajasthan
Phool mahal – The palace of flowers is magnificent 18th century chamber built by Maharaja Abhay Singh (1724-49) as hall of private audience. Mostly it served the purpose of pleasure hall where dancers used to performed and is so highly decorated.
The ceiling is gold filigree and mirror, and the walls, painted in 19th century depict the various moods of Indian classical ragas, Royal portraits and the incarnations of Lord Vishnu and Goddess Durga.
With its delicate colors, golden sheen, ornate ceiling and stained glass windows and screens, the Phool mahal is undoubtedly the grandest period room in Mehrangarh.
Sheesh Mahal – A characteristic feature of royal Rajput architecture, Sheesh Mahal means palace of mirrors, is exquisitely embellished with glass inlaid panels and multi mirrored ceiling. The mirror was convex and designed with color foil and paint which would glitter brighter under candle light at the time it was in use. There are some deities like Lord Bramha, Rama, Shiva and Parwati playing flute etc.
This room was bed chamber of maharaja Ajit Singh (1679-1724).
Moti Mahal – The pearl palace is one of the oldest surviving period rooms in this fort. It was built in 16th century by Sawai Raja Sur Singh (1595-1619) as hall of public audience. The walls of room are lustrously polished with ‘chunam’ and decorated with niches in which lamps once flickered. The ceiling is beautifully embellished with mirror and gilt.
Takht Vilas – The bed-chamber of Maharaja Takhat Singh (1843-73) is decorated from ceiling to floor with paintings on a variety of subjects from Hindu gods and goddesses to European ladies. Even the ‘carpet’ on the floor is painted. Especially noteworthy are the lacquer paintings on the wooden ceiling. Takhat Singh, a great patron of the arts, was the last of Jodhpur’s Maharajas to wholly reside in Mehrangarh.
Sardar Vilas- It underwent renovations in the 19th and 20th centuries. Displayed here are sets of wooden doors and windows which were once part of the palaces of Mehrangarh. Exquisite examples of 19th century woodcraft from Marwar, these are decorated with ivory, lacquer and paint.
Other interior of fort
Marks of cannon balls on walls of fort – During the reign of Maharaj Man Singhji, Jaipur state Raja Jagat Singhji attacked the fort. The city was captured an a tough fight took place to save fort, numerous heroes laid their lives on both sides and finally Jodhpur army had to flee. After this Maharaja Man Singhji built two new gates Jai Pol to celebrate as well as for defense.
Janaki Mahal – This palace was built to allow women of the zenana to view formal proceedings in the courtyards below. The screens and small windows allowed them to look down without being seeing.
The residences indise the fort
Epilogue
Mahrangarh fort is so colossal in proportions and visible as perpendicular cliff from the road that Rudyard Kipling called it “ the work of giants”. It was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, its varied buildings were built over period of 500 years.
It is acknowledged as one of the best preserved fort in India. It is controlled by current titular king Gaj Singh and all administration is under Mehrangarh Museum Trust. The way it is maintained reminds me Hampton court of London where all the rooms of Tudor dynasty are maintained exactly as if the kings still live there.
This is one of the best forts I have seen in India.
The way Rajasthan is preserving its heritage must be exemplary for other states. They have followed the British way of maintaining their palaces, (mostly private trusts) forts, temples, lakes. Tourists are not troubled, hotels and transport are reasonable. The tourist places are kept neat with some exceptions. This particular fort in Jodhpur reminds me Hampton court of Tudor Dynasty, London.
Source of information – Display boards in palace and guide
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