Location
Bikaner is a city in state of Rajasthan, India. It is in middle of Thar desert. In summer temperatures can exceed 48 °C, and during the winter they may dip below freezing. The city is most famous for its savoury snack Bikaneri bhujia which is sold all over the world. International Camel Festival is held every year in January. Roads are in good condition and city is well connected by buses and trains. There is domestic airport just 15 KM from city.
History
I have mentioned the history and genealogy of kingdom of Jaisalmer at link – ‘A glance at rajasthan rajput dynasties‘.
Our trip details
It was the longest trip of 18 days we ever had. After spending one and half day in Jaipur we caught night 11 PM train to Bikaner which touched it at 5.30 AM. We came out of the railway station and just walking few meters got auto for Rs.100 to drop us at RTDC Dhola Maru hotel (3KM). This hotel is in huge compound and luckily main door was slipped open. A man was sleeping and somehow he got up and showed us the AC room. The hotel was huge so was looking horrific. The room was not good but was big enough. There was no other way so we settled here for the next 3 days.
Where to stay
I stay always in state’s Government tourist department hotels. They are average but have good restaurant and very big premises. Renovation was going on and room was not in good state but it was OK for me. If rush is less or off season they prepare lunch as per your individual order. Breakfast is normally included in tarrif. In North India they usually serve you aloo paratha, curd or poori-bhaji.
Hotel booking – https://rtdc.tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/client/hotellist.aspx
Time required to visit the fort
3 hours. Entry fee is Rs.50 each for museum and fort.
Best time to visit
September to March end.
About Fort
The title ‘Unconquered’ is because Bikaner accepted Mughal suzerainty immediately else they could face the brunt. But we should not forget that todays thinking and that period political situations are in anachronism
Bikaner was founded by Prince Rao Bika in 1478. He was son of king Maharaja Rao Jodha of Marwar. Rao Bika was second son of the king so there was no chance of his enthroning. Once hurt by his father’s remark he left Jodhpur and established an entire new settlement from scratch when only jungles and deserts dominated the Bikaner region. The first fort which Rao Bika established is today known as “Bika ji ki Tekri”. This fort is on plain land and in heart of city and just about 2 KM from railway station.
Bikaji ki tekri fort – Not very impressive but this fort is from the time when Bikaner city was first founded. So it carries a weight of history and I was curious to see this. It seems this fort is renovated to large extent keeping original parts intact like cenotaphs of Rao Bika, Rao Nera, Rao Lukaran, Rao Jaitse (all about 500-600 year old), rooms and basements. Good to see that these are kept preserved. We can still see old designs of rooms.
It seems Rao Bika had stayed here in this place called Ratti Ghati when he was selecting site of fort.
When we reached this fort the big iron gate was locked. Locals knocked at guard room to open. Better to visit this fort between 10 AM to 5 PM.
After about 100 years of Bikaji ki Tekri, another more magnificent and imposing fort was built in 1589 AD by Maharaja Rai Singhji known as “Junagarh Fort”. One of the signage boards says that it was named Junagarh as “juna” means “old” and was named as “old” not to supersede old fort of Bika ji Ki Tekri as respect. I was so impressed by its august surroundings and no doubt by its hugeness.
Entire fort has attractive courtyards, balconies, kiosks and windows.
Rao Raisingh ji had accepted the suzerainty of Akbar and later Jahangir. He was conferred titles and worked as highest general in Akbar court. He won half of Mewar and earned the jagirs of Gujarat and Buhranpur. He also fought and won battles in Baluchistan and Kabul for Akbar. Rao Raisingh ji was also called “pillar of Royal Mughal kingdom”. From this revenue the existing Junagarh fort was built in 1589 onwards in 5 years.
Contributors to this fort – Many kings contributed to structures and grandeur of this fort in 400 years.
Karan Singh (1631- 1639) built Karan Mahal palace, Anup Singh (1669-98) Zenana mahal and refurbished Karan mahal with Diwan-e-aam, called it Anup Mahal, Gaj Singh (1746-1787) made Chandra Mahal, Surat Singh (1787-1828) lavishly decorated audience hall with glass and lively paintings, Dungar Singh (1872-1887) built Badal Mahal, Ganga Singh (1887-1943) built Ganga Niwas Palace.
Sadul Singh, son of Ganga Singh acceded to Union of India (1943-1950).
Ganga Singh was best known king of Rajasthan after Raja Raisingh ji. British earned him Knight Commander of Star of India. He represented India in WW-I. The hall where he held his golden jubilee as ruler is now museum. If Sawai Jai Singh of Mewar was pillar support of Mughals then Ganga Singh of Bikaner was also not behind for British.
Ganga Singh also built Lalgarh Palace on name of his father and moved to this in 1902. The royal family lives in special suite in Lalgarh Palace which they converted to heritage hotel.
Epilogue
Looks smaller from road side but it is long in length having many halls, courtyards, galleries, rooms and mahals.
All your expenditure to visit Bikaner is justified if you see this fort. It depicts the life of kings those days, their relations with Mughals and British, their living style and taste of rooms. The picture gallery, Ganga Singh gallery and Pracheen museum inside the fort are enough to know Rajasthan. After seeing we have to meditate on what we saw and what was their importance as a visitor or history lover.
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