Westminster Abbey – The British Valhalla

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It was was my long desire to see this World heritage, a burial ground of kings of Britain specially Edward I, the Confessor, Edward I, Edward III, henry III and Elizabeth I under one roof. Actually equally I wanted to touch the soil where Sir Isaac newton and Stephen hawking are buried. I think if someone asked me that -if I have just one day in London what I wish to see? My answer will be Westminster Abbey and Tower of London.

28 days in UK- A senior citizen plan

The name Westminster Abbey as it is situated in West of London and “minster” means mother church. There is difference between Abbey and church. Abbey is monastery or society of monks secluded or society of society of secluded people from world and devoted to celibacy and religion. Their head is abbot or abbess. While church is temple of worship, a building where religious services take place. Today this abbey is run by a society whose head is dean designated by parliament with approval of queen.

Outside entrance of North door where entry is permitted to visitors.


here I am presenting what I got from this visit.

Layout of Westminster Abbey


Who founded Westminster Abbey?
Benedict monks founded this abbey in 10th century for a population of two-three thousands in this area. It was dedicated to St. peters, the first Pope of Rome. Benedictine monks are the monks who follow the doctrines and stiff rules laid by Saint Benedict of 4th century. They are also sometimes called “black monks”.
What we see today is 1000 year old Abbey?
No. But partially true. One or two structures are of that period such as Pixy and little cloister. Rest all are new structures. Edward I, the Confessor rebuilt this abbey in 1080 and the remains of oldest Benedictine church are almost wiped out.
Who rebuilt the Abbey and when?
Edward I, the Confessor (Anglo Saxon) rebuilt this abbey in 1080 and consecrated in 1085.
The remains of old Benedictine church are wiped out except few like little cloister, pyx and chapter house walls. A week after this church was consecrated, Edward I died and buried in this church. His successor Harold II was crowned in this church though he is said to be first king crowned in this building yet some say William I, the Conqueror was first to be crowned here. Harold II was defeated by William I in Hastings war and Norman dynasty started in England just few years after this abbey consecration.
The current church we see today was rebuilt by henry III in 1245 for his burial. Subsequently Henry II, henry VII and henry VIII added to construction and renovation of church.

Only burials in church or coronation and weddings too?
Since 1066 almost all kings are coronated here. King Edward I, the Confessor or simply St. Edward’s chair, the throne on which English and British kings are crowned is kept here. “Stone of Scone” is kept under this chair. In 1950 Scottish nationalist students stole this stone from abbey and since then it is kept in Edinburgh castle. I had opportunity to see this stone. Whenever any coronation takes place the stone is brought from Edinburgh castle and then returned back.
Wedding of Henry I (1100 AD), Henry VII (1486), prince Andrew and William (both sons of late queen Elizabeth II) took place here along few more to count.

Coronation chair commissioned by Edward I in 1296. Also known as Edward, The Confessor Chair

Edward I was first king to be coronated on this chair. In every coronation stone of Scone is brought from Edinburgh castle and kept under chair as age old tradition.
Full body coffin is buried here or only cremated remains?
I was so curious to know this. It was tradition to bury full body but after 1905 only the remains and ashes of body are buried here. But there are some exceptions when when full body was buried after 1905. Full body of Isaac Newton (1727) but ashes of Stephen Hawking (2018) was buried here. I talked to a guide in blue apron who was witness of Hawking burial. he explained me that a foot long pit was dug and his ashes were lowered into it.

Who kings are buried here?
All English kings from henry III (1272) to George II (1760) are buried. There are some exceptions when Henry VI, Edward IV, Henry VIII and Charles I were buried in St. George chapel in premises of Windsor castle. Edward II buried at Gloucester cathedral, John buried in Worcester cathedral, Henry IV buried at Canterbury cathedral and Richard III buried Leicester cathedral, Lady Jane grey and Anne were buried in Tower of London.

Edward I, the Confessor replaced the original Benedictine church, except a few portions as chapter house, Pyx and Little Cloister. After him Henry II rebuilt the abbey for his burial.

Here under the stone are buried the cremated ashes of Stephen Hawking- 2018 AD.
Still burial takes place here?
Yes, most recent was of Stephen Hawking. But now as the space is scarce the royal burial takes place in St. George Chapel in Windsor castle premises.
Who is buried in tomb of Unknown warriors?

Burial spot of Unknown warriors who died or will die in wars from WW I onwards

An unknown British soldier killed in world war I in 1920 is buried here. This stone is now dedicated to respect all warriors died in wars. Only this area is restricted from the footsteps of visitors.

When was St. Margret church built?

There is a big church few meters away from the Westminster abbey. together these two buildings are part of UNESCO World heritage. I had not read about this church earlier. It so raised a lot of questions inside me at the spot specially when I saw Sir Walter Raleigh tomb inside here.
This church in Westminster abbey premises was built in 12th century but was re-built from 1486 to 1523, with initiative of Henry VII. The white structure we see as plaster on church was encased in Portland stone in 1734. So current church we see today has no traces of 12th century.

Who was St. Margret (or St. Marina)? is this fiction figure?


She was daughter of Pagan (a religion before Christianity) priest. Pagan is a kind of cult or religion of Norse people (Scandinavian region). She was consecrated to Christianity and swore her virginity to God. She was asked by a Roman emperor’s Diocese (area under jurisdiction of group of churches) to marry on demand to renounce Christianity. But she refused and was severely tortured. She was swallowed by dragon but came out of belly safely with the help of cross she carried irritated the dragon’s stomach. Also some more miraculous incidents happened when she came out of belly of dragon.
Yes a legendary figure. Many sections believe that it is more fiction and mythological. But after all all religions are based on mythology. Catholic church recognizes her as saint and in Christianity it is believed that when we worship or read her life she will help you by praying to God on your behalf. She is venerated as one of the fourteen Holy Helpers. So more or less St. Margaret is a mythological figure.
Almost similar story is about St. George whose chapel is in Windsor castle.

Any weddings take place in St. Margret church?
Yes, even today. The weddings of some known figures here are John Milton (1656), Winston Churchill(1920) and Lord Louis Mountbatten(1922).

Chapter House
Built by Henry III in 1253. We can see tiled pavement of that period. There is an old door of 1050 AD made with wood from a single tree and is one of the oldest remaining door of Britain. The Chapter House was originally used in the 13th century by Benedictine monks for daily meetings. It later became a meeting place of King’s Great Council and the Commons, predecessors of parliament.


In this chapter house king used to hold meetings since 1257 and it is said that it was effectively beginning of parliament in English rule. Later House of Commons met here in 14th century. After the monks left in 1540, chapter house was used as repository of state records. Monks had to forcibly leave as they refused to accept Henry VIII as head of church and so monasteries were closing down in Britain.


Pyx Chamber
The Pyx Chamber of 11th century formed the undercroft of the monk’s dormitory. It was used as monastic and royal treasury. The term Pyx refers to the boxwood chest in which coins were held and presented to jury during the trial of Pyx, in which newly minted coins were presented to ensure they confronted to required standards.

Pyx – The oldest part of abbey where Benedictine monks used to pray and live.

Nave

Nave or cloister is roof on West of Westminster Abbey and is traditional place of coronation and burial site for English and later British monarchs. The coronation chair and Unknown Warrior memorial are installed here. Few famous buried are Charles Darwin, Livingstone, Isaac Newton and Stephen Hawking.

The inscription written below his memorial reads –
” here is buried Issac Newton, knight, who by strength of mind almost divine, and mathematical principles peculiarly his own, explored the course and figures of the planets, the path of comets, the tides of sea, the dissimilarities in rays of light, and what no other scholar has previously imagined, the properties of the colors thus produced.”
Peculiar about Newtons personal life is that he died unmarried, her mother wanted him to be doctor, he taught in Cambridge and his lectures were poorly attended.

Quire
Quire or choir is there in Westminster abbey where music for prayers is played since thousand years. The seats are assigned to clergy and officers and to high commissioners for the commonwealth countries where they attend services. This is behind Newton’s memorial.

Quire (choir)


North Ambulatory
This portion of abbey Lady chapel, tomb memorials of Elizabeth I, Mary I, James I, Charles II, William II, Queen Anne and Oliver Cromwell. Henry VII built the Lady Chapel in 1503 and dedicated it to Jesus mother Mary.

Lady chapel


South Ambulatory
This is beautifully decorated arch and rib structure under which tomb of Edward, the confessor, Henry III and Henry VII are there.
The North Transept
The great North door is entrance for visitors and North transept is the first big space we land and start tour. It has many tombs and marble statues of several British statesmen such as Sir Robert Peel and two of Queen Victoria’s prime ministers William Gladstone and Benjamin Disraeli and many more. These statues may be more understandable to British people rather than foreigners as they were local heroes.
Photo comment – North transept is a spacious area for standing for some gathering. As we enter North gate left is sanctuary and Lady Chapel.

North Transcept


The South Transcept
This has poets memorials and some are buried here such as William Shakespeare.

Epilogue
It was my long long desire to see the burial grounds of British monarch, Charles Darwin, newton and Hawking. If I have just one day in London I would offer to see only Westminster Abbey and Tower of London.
Actually Westminster area is not only abbey but it has many offices, residences of clergy, security guards, jewel tower, parliament, churches. Seeing abbey needs at least 5 hours. It looks small from inside but huge space is carved inside.
It is not inappropriate for it to compare with Vallah – or more appropriately British Vallah.
This is oneness and respect for the family hierarchy which resulted in one kind of thought to preserve the history in one place and that spot on earth of Britain is – Westminster abbey.

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