It was just arrival of Summer in April of 2019 in Gujarat when I landed at Ahmadabad to see my brother. As such I also had plan to visit a few historical places in and around Ahmadabad. The visit of Ahmadabad city was my 4th day of 6 day tour.
My Itinerary
Ahmadabad Day 5 – Patan, Modhera.
Gujarat was under Islamic rule for 450 years from 1300 to 1750 AD. Rarely we find here any ancient or medieval Hindu temples here (except 14th century Bhadrakali Maa Temple founded by Ahmad Shah I) but the story of destruction of Somnath and Dwarka written as edict into black pages of History. But I do not believe history of pages. If Dwarka destruction was black page then Dada Harir Ni Vav (stepwell), Bhadrakali Maa temple are a live example of Hindu- Muslim unity in Ahmadabad that time. The mosques, tombs and Bhadra fort are mediocre in architecture, size and lack grandeur. Some classic stepwells such as Adlaj stepwell, Dada Harir Ni Vav (stepwell) and to an extent Shaking Minarets nothing much of to see. All these structures are blended in with crowded areas and cross over in public places that they are losing the weight of history and look ordinary today. Archaeology department must do something to keep these structures away from human usage and gracefully surround them with beautiful gardens.
Anyway, if we are visiting historical Ahmadabad let us have glimpses of its past.
Alla-ud-din Khilji incorporated Gujarat in Delhi Kingdom by 1300 AD. They used to appoint governors to rule and collect taxes. Similar administration was followed by Tugalaq dynasty in Gujarat. Tuglaq kingdom sent Zafar Khan (with title Muzaffar Khan) to Gujarat as governor in 1411. Zafar Khan was an able official but Timur, the Lame attack in 1398 weakened the Tuglaq rule. Taking this opportunity Zafar Khan declared himself independent and established Muzaffaid Dynasty and thus “independent Gujarat kingdom” was founded which lasted till 1584. In 1411 Zafar Khan declared his grand son Ahmad Shah I (son of Tatar Khan) as ruler of Gujarat. This Ahmad Shah I is said to develop Aaswal village into Ahmadabad and established Ahmad Shahi dynasty of Gujarat.
Zafar Khan (title Muzaffar Khan) -1391-1411-grand father of Ahmad Shah I,
Tatar Khan (title Muhammad Shah I) – 1403- 04 – father of Ahmad Shah I.
Ahmad Shah I (1411- 1442) – Founder of Ahmadabad city.
Ahmad Shah I and his next heirs defeated the Rajput kingdoms of Junagarh, Champaner, Dungarpur, Jhalawar, Nanded, Idar, Malwa, Kotah and Bundi and even Bahmani Sultans in South. They were victorious. Gujarat was independent kingdom until Akbar conquered in 1573 and there after it came under Mughal rule. Marathas wrestled it from Mughals in and ruled for 100 years before British took it over in 1803.
Ahmadabad in capital of Gujarat state of India and is very well connected with entire country by road, rail and International Airport.
Many local tour operators are available here and even Gujarat Govt. tourism buses but I suggest find some good operator to take you on day tour because there are chances that due to less number of tourists the tour could be cancelled in last hour.
Hutheesing Jain Temple I was happy to see this 170 years old temple and saw a team of sculptors sitting outside engaged in carving new sculptures into this temple. It is one of the architectural masterpieces in the city. The temple was built in 1848 AD by Seth Hutheesing, a Jain Merchant. Made from white marble, this piece of art has an amazing complex with protruding porches and a huge dome. There is a Kirti Stambh inside temple built in style of Chittorgarh fort. It has beautiful corridors and carvings. Photography is strictly not allowed inside the temple.
Sidi Sai’d Mosque
This mosque is built in 1573 by Sidi Sai’d, army general in the battalion of Sultan Shams-ud-Din Muzaffar Shah III. I was not impressed but this mosque is very different from any mosques I have seen in India. It is one of the very few buildings that are entirely in arcs, with arches as a major architectural component. The intricate latticework on the windows of the mosque are famous far and wide and have a charm that emanates sophistication and beauty. The design of Sidi Sai’d Mosque is said to be depicting the interlaced branches of the ‘tree of life. The second window from left is logo of famous management institute IIM, Ahmedabad. This mosque is live and I saw huge number of Namazis standing here waiting for their turn for prayers.
Rani Sipri’s Mosque
This medieval mosque in the walled city of Ahmedabad is also not so impressive but carries important pages of Gujarat history. This mosque was built in 1514 by Hindu Queen Sipri, the wife of Mahmud Begada or Mahmud Shah I (1458 – 1511). She did so in memory of her son who was executed by his father Sultan Begada for some minor crime. Rani Sipri is buried inside this mosque and there is separate hall for prayer by women. Begada was most powerful Sultan, established Champaner as the capital. He was responsible for the destruction of the Dwarkadhish temple in Dwarka, Gujarat. He was also popular as “the Poison Sultan,” as small amount of poison was given to him regularly to save him from conspiracy. Finally he cut his throat to commit suicide.
Jhulta minar -Shaking Minarets
I could not see this from inside as the entry is banned here now due to risk of the minarets. But as our tour guide told it is intriguing. If we shake one minaret, the other one starts shaking. Also if we put some force of wall of the balcony of mosque, the minarets start shaking. These is no visible connection between minarets or mosque. The minarets are 34 meters long and has three floors. They also had well-balanced balconies made of stone. The minarets are able to withstand fast-moving trains passing close by.
There are two stories about the origin of this mosque. According to one, it is believed that this mosque was constructed by Sidi Bashir, who was a slave of Sultan Ahmad Shah I, the founder of the city of Ahmedabad. The second one talks about Jhulta Minar built by Malik Sarang, who was a noble in the court of Sultan Mahmud Begada.
Fort wall gates and wall remnants
Bhadra Fort is situated in the walled city area of Ahmedabad, India. It was built by Ahmad Shah I in 1411. Unfortunately I could not see the fort inside as guide escaped it saying there is nothing much inside. So here I am adding some pictures of the fort wall and fort wall gates which I took while roaming around in city.
Dada Hariir Ni Vav (Stepwell)
Gujarat has about 120 stepwells. But this is one of very famous stepwell I have seen in Ahmadabad. Though we can not compare it with grandeur of Rani ki Vav of Patan, yet could it be maintained clean it was second best of Gujarat. As the guide told me “Sahab, these stepwells serve many purposes. It were a source for water for fields, resting place for travelers, erected in memory of the nobles and Hindu kings. These also propagate the religion and masterpiece of artwork. Though not counted in seven wonders of the world yet these are no less than “Inverted Pyramid”.
A Persian inscription on the wall of this stepwell states that it was built in the year 1485 while a Sanskrit inscription on another wall states the year of its construction as 1499 A.D.
See the overwhelming beauty of pillars throughout hundreds of feet. Can these not be called the wonder of world?
This Vav has seven storeys, each one equal in beauty. Walls have fine designs of artwork and a combination of Hindu and Muslim architecture. Better see in day time daytime when you can see the work clearly.
This vav was built by Bai Harir Sultani, who was the superintendent of the Royal Harem and the household lady of Mahmud Begada. We can see the a mosque behind called Sultani mosue. It has the tomb of Bai Harir Sultani.
Epilogue
Ahmadabad by name looks that it might be center of atrocities of staunch Islamic rulers but the religious structures erected by the rulers from 1300 to 1750 have different story to tell. I do not believe pages of history. If we talk just of this city, the mosques, stepwells built by Muslims and Hindus, Bhadrakali temple founded by Ahmad Shah I have different story to tell. All these architectures are combination of Hindu and Muslim art blended.
Overall the structures are not really impressive in art, beauty and size yet few like interlace work in mosque windows, shaking minarets, Bai Harir ki Vav and Adlaj are UNIQUE. I personally rate stepwells in Gujarat are in no way less than pyramids of Egypt. Pyramids are above earth and unique in terms of heavy stones whilethese stepwells are hundreds of feet below earth architecturally masterpiece of beauty and unparalled engineering. But Archaeology department should keep these out of reach of locals to keep it safe and clean.
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