Time to spend – 1.5 hours minimum at good pace.
ASI inscription installed at Bhaja Caves says that these caves were built by Hinyan cult of Buddhism in 100-200 BC during Mauryan- Satavahana empire. After about hundred years of death of Lord Buddha the religion divided in 2 philosophies – Hinyan and Mahayan. Hinyana thought is that man himself has to follow “Eight fold marg” to attain salvation. This school of Buddhism does not portray Buddha as God but as a pious man and torch bearer. They are against idol worship and more emphasis on meditation.
Itinerary
- Day 1 – Karla caves- Bhaja caves- Bedse caves
- Day 2 – Lohagad Fort- Visapur Fort
- Day 3 – Tunga Fort- Tikona Fort
- Day 4 – Camping overnight at Pawana lake
Why are Bhaja caves termed as Hinayana by ASI? I explored a lot in internet but there is no answer to it. There is no defenite answer to it. There are proofs that these caves were habitated till 700 AD and may be Mahayana also lived here subsequently after 5th century AD. Ajanta caves were started by Hinayana cult and Bhaja also contemporary of that we can assume these are Hinayana.
The view of the Bhaja village at half the way to caves. There are only few tea shops in village in bottom. We can still get snacks, tea and water. Better keep water bottle with you while going on top. But you can see some vendors on way selling water.
Due to ancientness, Bhaja caves enjoy the status of the pearl of Lonavala.
The stupas were constructed at different places with different purposes. In some places like in Bhaja cave these were constructed as a symbolic of Lord Buddha as it was not possible to get Buddha relics here. These stupas were as to attach to lord Buddha and do not directly relate to idol worship. Other places stupas were constructed to pay homage to dead monks, or as votive offered to fulfillment of a vow or commemorate some achievement. In Laddakh we can see many mud stupas in villages to keep away spirits etc.
This is the main meditation house (Chaitaanya Grah) as cave #12.
Most of the caves are empty and were used by monks as their dwellings. The bed were made of rocky stone and we can imagine their prime objective was to be near Buddha and attain salvation by renouncing the comforts as much as possible by leading tough life.
There are a few stupas outside the caves and it is confirm that these were relics of some prestigious monks staying here.
Lot of people I saw in Bhaja caves and mainly young blood as we know Lohagad fort and Bhaja caves are covered one after the other by tourists on same day. So we can not expect old people in this cave. Below is a commando group which came from Khadagvasla near Pune.
Cave#19 is very fine sculpture cut in Cave as semi Gods guarding the cave. the left carving shows a man with 2 women on four horses cart. It is said that Sun had 2 wives Sangya and Chhaya. Wilre right carving shows a man on an elephant with a goad and flanked by 2 men with spear and banner. Scholars say it is lord Indra.
We came down and on left we saw a small water stream and public taking bath here and taking photos. Getting down took about 20 minutes.
Epilogue
These 22 caves were cut during period contemporary Mauryan- Satavahana empire. I heard a lot about Lonavala from tourists but as such there is nothing in Lonavala except Tiger point. In close vicinity are Bhaja, Karla and Lohagad Fort, Pawana lake and few more forts. No one mentions about these. In fact we should explain our children of our past glory about these ancient places. If similar place was in Europe we will swarm as bee. It is not possible to cover Karla cave as we are tired covering tough and steep terrain of Lohagad and Bhaja caves. We will surely see Tikona, Visapur fort, Pawana lake night camping and Karla caves next time.
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