May,8,2019. Can not believe that I am going to see Nalanda. Excavated in two phases 1915-37 and 1974-82. It was an overwhelming feelings to see the place now which was a center of learning for the whole world specially Asia. The great scholars and philosophers like Nagarjuna, Aryadeva, Vasubandhu, Dharmpala, SuVishnu, Asaanga, Silabhadra, Dharmkirti, Shanta Rakshita, Huen-Tsang and I-Tsang. They set there foot here and spent long time here.
The University established by Kumargupta (413 – 455 AD), supported by great king Harshvardhana (606-647AD), Pala kingdom of Eastern India (800-1200 AD). Though its decline had started before the ransack and devastating tribal Bakhtiyar Khilji, a general of Qutab-ud-din-Aibek it completely went to oblivion due to tantric vajrayana branch of Buddhism and destruction by Muslim tribes invasions.
As per Huen-Tsang the entry to the university was through tough test and branch of study was decided based on knowledge and aptitude. The branches were Theology, Grammar, Logic, Astronomy, Metaphysics, Philosophy and Medicine.
It was a real hectic and adventurous travel by us in summer of North of India. Luckily the heat wave had not started in all these places as Gaya, Rajgir, and Nalanda are supposed to be one of the hottest places in Bihar. As per our itinerary we caught bus after lunch in Rajgir and reached Nalanda in just an hour at 2 PM. As soon as we got down from bus we got E-Rikshaw. Since we were in hurry to finish Nalanda ASAP as we had a train from Nalanda to Patna at 6 PM.
What to see in Nalanda
Pushkarni lake -> Huen- Tsang (Xuanzang) memorial -> Black Buddha-> Nalanda ancient University -> Museum. (Auto Rs.300, Total time 3 hours).
Just in 10 minutes auto reached Pushkarni lake which falls on way to Huen-Tsang memorial.
We reached Huen-Tsang memorial and were very impressed by the size and campus of this memorial. It was a beautiful campus and China government has displayed the works and travel itineraries which he followed. He traveled to India stealthily in 629 AD as did not get permit. He was Cunfician follower but was interested in Buddhist scriptures. His family was a scholar since generations and greatest achievement of Xuanzang was to translate 629 Buddhist scriptures from Sanskrit to Chinese. Later he was impressed and adopted Buddhism. His narrations are also source of information to historians.
Inside Huen Tsang (Xuanzang) memorial at Nalanda, Bihar. This is a very rich museum built by China government. This has a typical story that it was half way constructed when 1962 war with China started. After that it was totally forgotten and abandoned that sheep and cows used to graze here. Again the work started after 2000 and it has a huge information inside about Huen-Tsang. Just note that Huen-TSang travel log of 6th century is the major source of information of history of India.
Next the auto guy took us to Black Buddha. It was a statue of about 4 feet. As per locals this was the first artifact which was seen and based on that excavation started. But I fully doubt this statement and by locals this statue is installed in a small temple just to collect some donations.
Next we come to main attraction of the place and that is ancient Nalanda university. As soon as we enter the premises we see some very recent excavations on our left side.
Basically Nalanda was a residential university Mahavihara and had strength of 10,000 students and 2000 teachers. Some villages were assigned for all its revenue to be dedicated to meet operating costs of the university.
Now we came out of mahavihar, rooms of the students, lecture hall. Outside we stand to take a photo of prominent temple-3 in background.
Famous and most popular sweets of Bihar.
Epilogue
The visit to Bihar was a memorable travel. We did not face any difficulty in moving place to place like Gaya, Rajgir, Nalanda, Vaishali and inside Patna. The people are very co-operative. Good hotels are available on cheap rates in off season. It was first week of May but still we could manage as the places are maintained neat and clean. I suggest all people to visit these places of Bihar which gave a thought of United India since 2300 years ago. It is a land of Chandrgupta Maurya, Ashoka the Great, land of Lord Mahavia and Lord Buddha preaching and maha nirvana. All of us must visit.
It was my one of the best and memorable visit to any state in India. I congratulate ASI and state ASI for maintaining these historical sites so beautifully and neatly. Buti it seems the archaeological sites like Agam Kuan, people have encroached it for religious purposes while it seems Kumhrar was not excavated with professional hands and so lost all signs of ancient palaces and artifacts, buildings.
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