Comparatively today lesser known among Indians, this place was once the capital of Bundela Rajput kingdom from 1531 to 1783 CE. I was just thinking why this place is lesser known – the name itself indicates “Orchha” – means hidden. But the reason might be that Orchha was a small kingdom and had a bit of peaceful life as they got themselves accustomed to Mughal and almost accepted their suzerainty maintaining their dignity and valor at the same time.
It is said that about 600 thousand tourists visit Orchha annually. I think this is the only fort (like Chittorgarh fort) where stories are associated with each and every palace and each temple. These is no other such place so far seen by me.
Time to spend
Minimum 4 hours. But if want to raft in Betwa and see Datia, Orchha Bird Century then 1 Night 2 Days will be fine.
How to reach Orchha
Located in Madhya Pradesh, a state of Central India. Nearest railway station is Jhansi (20 KM), nearest airport Gwalior (150 KM). World heritage Khajurao is 180 KM.
Where to stay
There are 2 hotels run by MPSTC – One is Betwa Retreat and another is Hotel Sheesh Mahal. Sheesh Mahal is part of palace and mostly foreigners stay here. The rates are reasonable. You can book online at MPSTDC-hotel-booking-link . Or you can stay at Jhansi.
History
Mythologically Bundela are believed to be clan of Vihagaraja, seventh son of Lord Brahma of solar dynasty. Jagdas was son of Vihagaraja. He was deprived of throne and so he went to Vindhyachal Devi to sacrifice himself. Devi being glad to see his devotion named him “Bundela” – drop of blood. Hereafter kingdom started. Bundelkhand region was known as Chhedi kingdom in BC periods.
Bundelkhand had a prominent role in history of India and Mughals during rule of Akbar (1556 – 1605), Jahangir (1605 – 1627), Shah Jahan (1605 – 1627) and Aurangzeb (1658 – 1707). After that it was on decline and Peshwas took over the region.
Founder – Sahanpal in early 14th century.
Prominent kings – Rudrapratap Singh, Madhukar Shah. Veer Singh Dev, Chhatrashal
Kingdom – Ajaigarh, Banka Pahari, Bihat, Bijawar, Charkhari, Datia, Dhurwai, Garrauli, Jaso, Jigni, Orchha, Panna, Sarila, Tori Fatehpur
Origin – The Buddelkhand region was part of Chandel empire. In early
14th century Sahanpal Bundela along with army of Parmars and Chauhans defeated weakening Chandela and established Bundela kingdom. The Bundela clan settled down in this region as vassals of the other two Rajput clans Parmars and Chauhans.
Fall– In 1735 took over by Maratha kingdom
Monuments – Orchha fort, Raj Temple, Rani palace, and Saharpanah built by Bharti Chandra.
Veer Singh Dev built Karera Fort in Shivpuri, and Damoni Fort in Sagar, and renovated Jhansi Fort,
Built Jahangir Place and Sawan Bhadon Mahal and Chaturbhuj temple at Orchha.
During Mughal period of Akbar, this region was under Gond Kingdom under Dalpati Shah. He married Chandel Princess Durgavati. After 4 years of marriage Dalpati Shah expired and Akbar sent his general Asaf Khan to capture Gond. After a valiant fight Durgavati was defeated, she stabbed herself and Gond kingdom weakened. Taking advantage Malkhan Singh of Orchha region, a Bundela general in Akbar army occupied Sagar and Damoh region of Gond. This soured the relations of Akbar and Bundela but the matter was settled later and had good relations with Akbar.
From here rose the Bundela kingdom as they were patronized by Mughals.
Maharaja Malkhan Singh’s son Rudra Pratap Singh was most famous king who founded Orchha in 1531 and transferred his capital from Gadh Kumar to Orchha.
Rudra Paratap had to fight with Ibrahim Lodhi and Sikandar Lodhi. After him his son Bharti Chand (1531-1554 AD) took throne but died heirless. After him his brother Madhukar Sah (1554-1592 AD) sat on throne. He was very religious and he used to go to Akbar court with vermillion and rudraksh mala. Once he disobeyed Akbar in killing lion saying that lions are like God for him. As punishment, Akbar was angry and defeated him in 3rd battle.
Madhukar Sah had 6 queens through which had 8 sons. His one queen Ganesh Kunwari was a great devotee of Lord Rama. After his death his eldest son Ram Shah was king of Orchha. Other 7 sons were given respective jaagirs.
Another son of Madhukar Shah, Veer Singh Dev (1605-1627 AD) was the most capable son of Madhukar Shah and got Orchha to rule. He did not like the Mughal supremacy in Orchha region and tried to win some Mughal regions. Veer Singh Dev founded Orchha palace and built Chaturbhuj temple in orchha.
Right from birth of Bundela there was frequent sweet and sour relations and scuffles with Mughals.
His brother Ram Shah sought help from Akbar against Veer Singh Dev. This sowed the seed of discord in Orchha family.
Rudra Pratap Singh’s great grand son was valiant king Champat Rai. Veer Chhatr Saal was son of Champat Rai. On death of Aurangzeb, Chatrasal freed himself from Moghul vassalage with help from the Marathas proclaimed an independent Bundela kingdom at Panna.
About Orchha
As we traveled from Jhansi in car with my cousin we come across several giant gates which give us the
There are many interesting stories associated with all monuments of Orchha which I would like to narrate here in brief.
Once Jahangir wanted to kill the Abul Fazal and instigated Veer Singh Dev (1605-27) who killed Abul Fazal. And for that Akbar destroyed Orchha.
But once Jahangir became Mughal emperor the relations improved between Bundela and Mughals. To welcome Jahangir as Mughal king, Bir Singh Dev constructed Jahangir Mahal with 36 rooms to invite rulers of 36 states to welcome Jahangir as per guide. Such was friendship of Bundelas with Mughals.
There is a famous woman character name Rai Praveen is associated with Orchha. She was extremely beautiful, a fine poet and a dancer. She was concubine of Raja Inderjit Singh, grand son of Bir Singh Dev. Since she could not be given status of queen he constructed a palace for her.
The popularity of Parveen crossed the borders of Orchha and reached Akbar who called Parveen Bai. Inderjit Singh could not deny the request. Parveen appeared before Akbar and she recited a doha for Akbar-
“Viniti Rai Praveen ki, suniye Shah Sujan, juthi patar (platter) bhakat hain, bari (person from lower caste), bayas (barbar), swan(dog).” means Rai Praveen said that partially consumed plate is given to dog. Intelligently Parveen expressed her loyalty to Inderjit Singh. Akbar was highly impressed and he sent back Rai Praveen to Bundela.
She also had rejected the offer of marriage from Jahangir. So Rai Praveen Palace is symbol of faithful romance as Indian tradition.
There is a big and famous live temple of Lord Ram Chandra Sarkar (Original Idol from Ayodhya), known as Raja Ram temple.
Legend is that once Orchha king Madhukar Shah was devotee of Lord Krishna and his wife Ganesh Kunwari was devotee of Lord Rama. Note that those days Bhakti cult wave was prevailing in India with two sects – Ram Bhakti and Krishna Bhakti. Once king challenged his queen to bring Rama to Orchha if she prays Ram so much. Queen went to Ayodhya and at same ordered construction of Chaturbhuj temple so that idol of Rama could be installed. After a month of tapasya she brought idol of child Rama. By chance she kept the idol in her palace and then idol could not be lifted. This was the place Raja Ram temple. But as per ASI the idol could not be installed as temple was not completed due to Mughal invastion and death of Hardol Sinh ( son of Inderjit Singh). Hardol had consumed poison to prove his innocency to the accusation of of affair with his elder brother’s wife. Even today Hardol Aalha is popular in Orchha. I could not see Hardol memorial temple as it was far from palace.
The below view if of Raja Ram temple which actually was Rani Mahal kitchen as told by guide. I saw here famous guard of Honor at 1 PM. It was by just one MP Police member. Earlier the guard of honor used to be by 11 police men during Arjun Singh time. Later it was reduced to 5 persons and after Diggy Babu was CM it was reduced to 1 member only. All the Rajas of Orchha kingdom considered themselves as Prime Minister of Raja Ram. It is said that the Lord Ram’s idol kept here was hidden in Saryu river to save it from Babur.
There is Chaturbhuj temple adjacent to Ram Raja temple. It is about 500 years which was supposed to be for Lord Rama but as said above Rama could not be installed here. So here Lord Vishnu, form of Rama is installed. This is 5 storied temple. A guide carried me through this temple. It is difficult for ladies to go beyond 1 floor as stair steps are 1 feet high.
Just near to the temple is Dauji ki Haveli, a mini palace which was center of business activities of Bundela.
There is another palace known as Raja Mahal in vicinity of Jahangir Mahal. It was built in 1531 CE by Raja Rudrapratap Singh (1503-1531) and later completed in reign of Bharti Chandra and Madhukar Shah (1592CE).
Epilogue
The Orchha had deep association with Mughals but if you see the construction of the building of Mughal time forts and this fort, there is a lot of difference. Rajputs had adopted Mughal architecture in thei palaces but vice versa is not true. The Mughals made strong red stone buildings while Rajputs used sand stones and lime.
The city of Orchha gives a very typical feeling as compared to other historical cities seen by me as this city is blend of religious, wars and romance. Betwa river flows all in city and palaces are actually islands. There is novel “Sone Ka Thaal” by Acharya Chatursen which depicts the politics of Bundelkhand and Mughals.
History of Bundelkhand is story of valour and pride against betrayal of motherland and disunity.
This is history of how Raja Shubhkaran tried to poison his brother Champat Rai, father of Veer Chhatrasaal and preferred to lose his kingdom to Aurangzeb rather than save Bundelkhand from slavery.
Bundelkhand revolves around Mughals futile attempts to enslave the Bundelas and Marathas. There was disunity among the subkingdoms of Budelkhand though they were of same blood.
Bundelkhand was divided among 8 sons of King Madhukar Shah. Veer Singh Dev was one who founded Orchha and Chaturbhuj temple.
Few things worth when we read history of Bundelkhand
- Was Aurangzeb fool is fighting Marathas and Bundelas?
- If we count the TRAITOR OF MILLENIUM to Hindu community – It was Raja Jai Singh of Amer(Jaipur)
who helped Aurangzeb from Deccan to Kandhar against his own Hindu community. He was an icon
of slavery and sychophancy of Mughals. - Chhatrasaal was Shivaji of Bundela. He followed Shivaji policy and kept the torch of freedom lighted against Aurangzeb successfully.
- Hundred years after Veer Chhatrasaal, again Bundela rose to glory in form of Rani Lakshmi Bai.
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