Having traveled to many countries both as a tourist and for work, I can confidently say that India tops my list. It’s an amazing country to visit, especially for foreigners on a budget, with its endless natural beauty and spiritual richness. From the Arabian Sea in the south to the stunning landscapes of the Seven Sisters in the east, the snow-capped Himalayas in Uttarakhand, the unique Kutch region, and the national parks in the west, to the cities nestled among the Aravali mountains in central India, the caves of Maharashtra and Orissa, the majestic forts and deserts of Rajasthan, the beautiful beaches in Goa and Karnataka, and
the incredible temples in Tamil Nadu—the list goes on and on. You could explore all of Europe from east to west in just two months, but it would take you ten years to truly experience all that India has to offer. While Europe is undeniably beautiful, especially with its Alps, India is unique in that it offers glimpses of
the beauty found in Europe, South America, North America, and Southeast Asia—all within its borders. Plus, it’s safer than many other countries around the globe. I’m not exaggerating; my extensive travels in India and beyond have inspired me to share these thoughts about this incredible country.
I think just checking out a country’s popular sights, like its mountains, city vibes, and beaches, isn’t enough. To truly experience a place, you need to visit those quiet, off-the-beaten-path spots during the off-season. Imagine sitting alone on your hotel balcony with a drink, soaking in the stunning natural
beauty around you. It’s essential to explore the hidden gems in Himalayan villages, relax on secluded beaches, wander near the impressive caves of Ajanta and Ellora or wander in ruins of forts in Rajeasthan. You really get a feel for a country’s spirit when you connect with its rural life and breathtaking landscapes.
In my visits to Uttarakhand, I planned to cover Uttarakhand in many itineraries. Uttarakhand is divided into two regions: Kumaon and Garhwal.
Garhwal Region Districts: Pauri Garhwal, Chamoli, Rudraprayag, Tehri Garhwal, Dehradun, Haridwar and Uttarkashi
Kumaon Region Districts: Almora, Nainital, Bageshwar, Pithoragarh, Champawat and Udham Singh Nagar
GHARHWAL
When you visit Uttarakhand, make sure to take a couple of nights to chill at some off-the-beaten-path spots while exploring the Char Dhams. These hidden gems have way fewer crowds, letting you soak in the peaceful mountain vibes, the deep valleys, and the sight of cows and sheep grazing. You’ll see villagers going about their daily routines, feel the winds and hear the thunderstorms, and enjoy the stepped
villages surrounded by deodar forests or tall pines. Don’t forget to stop by a roadside tea shop, sip some tea, and chat with the locals. Take a stroll along the winding roads, sit by the roadside, and just take in the beauty of the jungle. Trust me, this trip will be worth every penny, and you’ll feel a refreshing burst of energy away from the hustle and bustle of city life.
I’ve put together a list of stopovers along the Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri route where you can stay. Plus, I’ve included some other spots where you can relax for a couple of days, just chilling on a balcony with stunning mountain views or a beautiful lake right in front of you.
There is a specialty about Garhwal, and that is all the four Dhams are situated in the Garhwal region only. I covered only Gangotri and as it was a pleasure trip of travelling in Garhwal, I explored some off-beat places like Chamba, Maneri, Tehri and Raithal to stay overnight. It was a 6-night and 7-day trip by taxi with my friend. The expenditure of this customized tour was about Rs. 26000 per person. Taxis cost Rs.2500 a day, and the customer is responsible for the driver’s meals.
Whenever you want to cover the char dhams one in one trip, we can choose the off-beat stop overs to feel the holiness and beauty of Devbhoomi. I covered the places in order of Narendra Nagar – chamba- tehri – uttarkashi- Maneri – Raithal – Nelong Valley- Gangotri- Harsil- Haridwar. It was total of 866 km in complete trip.
Covering four Dhams in Garhwal region
The foremost attraction of Uttarakhand is its Char Dham. This attracts millions of pilgrims to this Dev Bhoomi state. The roads are steep and winding, so it’s a good idea to get a local driver or use a Char Dham taxi. The best times to visit are from May to June and September to October, but steer clear of the monsoon season. Don’t forget to pack warm clothes, some basic meds, and rain gear. Make sure to start your day early to dodge any afternoon weather shifts and road problems.
Where to stay
The big question is where to stay in these places. I personally always prefer to stay in GVMN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) rest houses, which can be booked online. Staff is good, though not all GMVNs are maintained so well, but their surroundings and campus are beautiful everywhere. I blindly book state-run hotels everywhere. I recommend it for average and budget hotels. For Kumaon region the KVMN (Kumaon Vikas Mandal Nigam) rest houses can be booked.
On trekking routes do not take pony as it may pose difficulties for senior citizens. I have seen people getting down midway inspite they hired pony. In the route you can choose any places for night stay according to your liking. Some may like to stay in popular places and towns while some may prefer to stay in secluded off-beat places. All the stopovers I have indicated, there are government run GVMN Rest Houses. I suggest you to stay there as they have a fixed standard.
Gangotri
Gangotri is the origin of the Bhagirathi River and is accessible by road (no trekking required).
You can drive right up to Gangotri Temple
Char Dham Registration mandatory: Registration link click here. Off season not required.
Route: Haridwar → Rishikesh → Chamba → Dharasu → Uttarkashi→ Bhatwari → Harsil → Gangotri
Any trekking required – No
Helicopter service – Not required
Where to stay:
GMVN Harsil (Rs.2500), GMVN Uttarkashi (Rs.2500), GMVN Raithal (Rs.1800), GMVN Maneri (Rs.1600), GMVN Tehri (Rs. 1800)
Enroute I have stayed in GMVN Uttarkashi, Maneri, Raithal, and Harsil everywhere for one night to enjoy the beauty of the Garhwal hills.
Yamunotri
To embark on a journey to Yamunotri, we must commence from Rishikesh, traveling through Mussoorie. It is advisable to establish a base camp for overnight accommodation in Barkot, which is a 7-hour drive covering a distance of 200 kilometers. An early morning drive of 1.5 hours will lead us to Yamunotri. To reach Yamunotri, one must either trek for 6 kilometers or opt for a palki. You can return from Yamunotri via Janki Chatti (approx. 1.5 hours).
Char Dham Registration mandatory: Registration link click here.
Route: Haridwar → Barkot → Janki Chatti (last motorable point)
Any trekking required – 6 km from Janki Chatti
Helicopter service: Helicopter IRCTC booking link. Can be availed from Sahastradhara Helipad, Dehradun. It will land you up to Kharsali (near Janki Chatti). From there 6 KM trek (same as Janki Chatti) by foot, Pony, Doli
Where to stay: Barkot Yatri Nicas(Rs. 700 per bed ), Barkot Janta Yatri Nivas(Rs.2200 per bed ),
Barkot Annexy (Rs. 3400), Barkot Tourist Rest House (Rs. 2200)
You can also explore GMVNs very close to Yamunotri trek point.
GMVN Janki Chatti Tourist Rest House (Rs. 560 per bed or Rs.2200). It is just at start of trek point, GMVN Hanuman Chatti Tourist Rest House (Rs. 660 per bed or Rs.2400) which is about 9 KM from trek point.
Kedarnath
To go to Kedarnath, you need to combine road travel + a 16 km trek (or take a helicopter). Last Motorable Point is Gaurikund.
Walk: 6–8 hours (challenging but scenic), Pony/Mule: ₹2,000–3,500 approx, Palanquin (Doli): For elderly (₹5,000–8,000)
Char Dham Registration mandatory: Registration link click here.
Route: Haridwar → Rishikesh → Guptkashi → Sonprayag → Gaurikund
Any trekking required – 16 km
Helicopter service – Helicopter IRCTC booking link. Helipads near Kedarnath Route: Phata, Sersi, Guptkashi
Helicopter Services: ₹2,500–4,500 per person one way, 5–8 minutes flight. Need to book in advance via IRCTC or authorized operators
Where to stay: Kedarnath Swargarohini Complex Rs. 1500 per person to Rs. 8400 for 4 persons Near Helipad
Lincholi Shivlok Cottages (5 KM before Kedarnath Temple) Rs. 1100 per bed
GVMN Kedarnath Rudra Meditation cave, Kedarnath Swargrohini complex,
GVMN Leenncholi -Shivlok Cottage Tents Ground Bedded (Rs. 700 per bed )
GMVN Kedarnath Nandi Complex Base Camp (dormitory). One Km before the Kedarnath Temple
GMVN Kedarnath Devdarshni Tent Colony Tented beds 1.5 KM from Kedarnath
Other options of stay are Gaurikund, Sonprayag or Guptkashi
Distance:
Haridwar → Gaurikund: 250 km (10–12 hrs by road)
Badrinath
Traveling to Badrinath is relatively easier than Kedarnath because the temple is directly accessible by road
Char Dham Registration mandatory: Registration link click here.
Route: Rishikesh → Devprayag → Rudraprayag → Joshimath → Badrinath
Any trekking required: No
Helicopter service: Helicopter IRCTC booking link. Helicopter service is available (limited) from Dehradun to Badrinath.
One-day or two-day Char Dham helicopter packages include Badrinath.
Must be booked in advance via authorized operators or IRCTC Helicopter Portal
Where to stay: Most people break journey at Joshimath, 45 km before Badrinath
Distance: 310 km from Haridwar (11–13 hours)
Package tours for Do Dham and Char Dham yatra
There are many operators like Indian railway (IRCTC Tourism) and private operators who conduct package
tours for Do dham and Char Dham yatra. Your money in IRCTC is at least safe, and book the private operators only when you are sure and have seen their offices or talked to your own people. For price, you can compare with IRCTC Tourism prices.
Do Dham Yatra EX Delhi (Badrinath, Kedarnath) Rs. 38000 (double occupancy)
7 nights and 8 days. Only breakfast and dinner
With these rates you can compare with your private operators.
Day 01: Delhi – Haridwar (222 km: 6 to 7 hrs)
Day 02: Haridwar – Guptkashi (205 km / 7 to 8 hrs)
Day 03: Guptkashi – Sonprayag – Kedarnath (30 km + 20 km trek)
Day 04: Kedarnath – Sonprayag – Guptkashi (20 km trek + 30 km / 52 kms drive)
Day 05: Guptkashi – Joshimath – Badrinath (200 km: 7 to 8 hrs)
Day 06: Badrinath – Joshimath – Birahi/Rudraprayag/Srinagar (92 km: 3 hrs / 165 km: 5 to 6 hrs / 195 km: 6 to 7 hrs)
Day 07: Birahi/Rudraprayag/Srinagar – Rishikesh–Haridwar (230 km: 7 to 8 hrs / 165 km: 5 to 6 hrs / 135 km: 4 to 5 hrs)
Day 08: Haridwar – Delhi (225 km / 6 to 7 hrs)
Note: You can choose Palki or Pony for the trek on your expenses.
Char Dham Yatra EX Delhi Rs. 54000 (double occupancy)
12 nights and 13 days. Only breakfast and dinner
Day 1 – Delhi – Haridwar / 205 Kms / 6-7 Hrs
Day 2 – Haridwar – Barkot / 200 Kms / 8-9 Hrs
Day 3 – Barkot – Janki Chatti – Yamunotri – Janki Chatti – Barkot / 40 + 40 Kms Drive / 6 + 6 Trekking / 9-10 Hrs
Day 4 – Barkot – Uttarkashi / 100 Kms / 5-6 Hrs
Day 5 – Uttarkashi – Gangotri – Uttarkashi / 100 + 100 Kms / 11-12 Hrs
Day 6 – Uttarkashi – Guptkashi / Sitapur 250–290 Kms / 10-11 Hrs
Day 7 – Guptkashi / Sitapur – Kedarnath / Driving 35 Kms / Trekking 16 Kms / 8-9 Hrs
Day 8 – Kedarnath – Gaurikund – Sitapur / Guptkashi One Side Trek 16 Kms / Driving 35 Kms / 6-7 Hrs
Day 9 – Guptkashi / Sitapur – Badrinath / 220–250 Kms / 9-10 Hrs
Day 10 – Badrinath – Birahi / Rudraprayag / Srinagar (140–200 Kms) / 5-8 Hrs
Day 11 – Birahi / Rudraprayag / Srinagar – Haridwar (200–120 Kms) / 8-5 Hrs
Day 12 – Haridwar – Delhi / Drop Only / 205 Kms / 7-8 Hrs
Note: You can choose Palki or Pony for the trek on your expenses.
KUMAON
I grew up in Kumaon, and it holds a special place in my heart. I remember taking walks with my dog every day along the road from my house in Jagati to the Jhula Devi temple. I’d admire the valleys and the deodar and pine trees. Back then, snowfall in winter was common, but now we hardly see any snow in Kumaon.
Kumaon region is not as tough and unapproachable as Garhwal. Whatever I have travelled in Kumaon, and based on that, I have made the list according to the order in which these should be covered. The popular places trip was about 6 nights and 7 days with night halt at Patal Bhuvneshwar, Kausani, Ranikhet and Nainital. I stayed in friends hotels that time but in all these places and the off-beat places there are state government run KVMN (Kumaon Vikas Mandal Nigam) rest houses which have to be booked online. They do entertain only online customers specially in season. The hotel booking link is KVMN Hotel booking. The rents of room are reasonable. Hotel staff are generally good. Though the maintenance of far flung rest houses is not good but is manageable. These are economical when travel group is bigger.
Below is the itinerary we followed in our trip of popular places in Kumaon.
Epilogue
Uttarakhand is a unique state, much like the North East regions of India. The roads are surprisingly well-maintained, with about 80% being two-way, but navigating those winding paths for four hours can be tough. You might end up feeling a bit queasy and worn out. So, it’s essential to plan thoroughly to explore this stunning state. Picking the right stopovers is key, and you can either go for off-the-beaten-path spots or more populated towns for your stay. Personally, I prefer the quieter, off-beat locations for overnight stays. These hidden gems really let you soak in the essence of the hills and experience the rural lifestyle of Uttarakhand. Every place I’ve mentioned has government-run tourist rest houses that are safe and set in beautiful surroundings.
When it comes to visiting the four dhams, pilgrims have two options. One is to pick a single dham for a more relaxed trip, soaking in the stunning views of the Garhwal hills, enjoying the sunrises and sunsets, and taking in the foggy mountains and snow-capped peaks at a leisurely pace. The other option is to go for a package tour that covers everything in 10 days, but that can be pretty hectic. Personally, I’d recommend avoiding package tours unless absolutely necessary. If you do decide to go that route, stick with IRCTC or operators that your friends have had good experiences with.
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