Our journey along the Nile lasted three magical nights—from Aswan to Luxor—with graceful halts at historic harbors to explore ancient treasures.
A Nile cruise is truly one of the finest ways to experience Egypt. Almost the entire civilization of this timeless land is woven around the banks of the Nile River.
Cost of the cruise trip
For a 3-night Nile cruise on the MS Nile Symphony (a mid-range cruise vessel sailing between Luxor and Aswan), typical costs are approximately as follows—per person and based on published cruise rates (excluding flights, optional tours, and some extras):
Approximate Price Range for 3 Nights
Standard Seasons (Non-Peak): Including all meals and breakfast and beverages
US $390 – $480 per person in a double cabin
US $375 – $465 per person in a triple cabin
US $585 – $720 per person in a single cabin
(Prices vary by season—higher in peak/cool months and around holidays, maybe 1.5 to 1.7 times.)
Beyond its fertile embrace lies the vast expanse of the Sahara—endless golden silence stretching to the horizon. The temples of antiquity, just like the modern towns and villages, rise faithfully along the river’s edge, as if still paying homage to the water that gave them life.
Our temple visits to Kom Ombo, Edfu, and Philae were thoughtfully planned by the cruise crew and perfectly synchronized with breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Typically, we explored two magnificent sites each day (with 1 night standstill in Aswan)—one before lunch and another afterward—allowing us to absorb history without feeling rushed.
The cruise itself housed around seventy rooms.
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One entire deck was dedicated to a beautifully designed restaurant, adorned with portraits and artwork reflecting Nubian heritage. The breakfast spread was generous—omelettes, bread, tea, and coffee felt comfortingly familiar. Some dishes were distinctly Egyptian, yet Indian travelers could easily adapt.
There were vegetables cooked in local style, egg curry, salads, lentils served like soup but tasting very close to Indian dal, and even rajma prepared surprisingly similar to home. The rice was very sticky, the bread thick and Egyptian in character, and the buffet offered chicken, mutton, and beef daily. Desserts
included cakes, vermicelli sweets, fresh fruits, juices, and endless tea and coffee—simple yet satisfying.
One afternoon, during lunch, a delightful surprise awaited us. It was the birthday of one of our fellow travelers. Suddenly, the chef and his team arrived, beating drums and singing joyfully through the dining hall. They brought a cake arranged by the cruise itself—a spontaneous celebration that filled the room with warmth and laughter.
The second floor featured a grand hall for cultural programs and gatherings, along with a paid bar and cafe corner. Soft carpets covered the decks, enhancing the comfort.
At the rear of the boat was a small swimming pool, while the front offered a wide balcony perfect for quiet reflection. A narrow walking
passage circled the entire boat—an excellent spot for photography as the river unfolded on both sides.
Before boarding, I had imagined restless waters and sleepless nights. Instead, the ship glided so smoothly that its movement was barely perceptible. It felt as though the Nile itself carried us with deliberate gentleness.
At night, the upper deck offered scenes of shimmering enchantment. Cities along the banks sparkled with golden lights, their reflections trembling in the dark waters. Because the cruise sailed close to shore, one
could glimpse evening life—conversations, passing cars, flickering lamps—a quiet choreography along the river’s edge.
Daytime revealed a dramatic contrast. On one side lay fertile green fields dotted with banana and palm trees; on the other stretched the immense, untouched Sahara. The silence of the desert felt almost
musical. Watching its vastness stirred something introspective—a feeling of solitude amid infinity. I was reminded of Kamayani, where Manu stands alone at the dawn of creation, surrounded by water. Here too, there seemed to be only the Nile and eternity.
We passed riverside villages, fortress-like hotels, and surprisingly vast agricultural lands flourishing against what I had assumed would be barren terrain. It was then that the realization deepened—the Nile is not simply a river. It is Egypt’s lifeline, its ancient inheritance, and its enduring miracle.
For over eight thousand years, civilization has flourished along these waters. Empires have risen and fallen, temples have weathered centuries, and yet the essential truth remains unchanged: all life here begins and ends with the Nile.
And as our cruise docked in Luxor, I understood that this journey had not just carried us across distance—it had carried us across time.
We came across something unexpected during our time by the Nile River—the Esna Lock. It was fascinating to watch, and it took us nearly an hour to fully understand how it works.
The Esna Barrage was built mainly for irrigation control and agricultural expansion, not for boat navigation. Before that, the Nile flow was plain.
Here’s the full picture:
The Nile’s water level is higher on one side of the lock and lower on the other. A boat obviously can’t just sail from the higher level to the lower one—it would drop suddenly, which is impossible and dangerous.
To solve this, the lock has a large enclosed chamber with gates at both ends. When a boat enters from the higher side, the gates close behind it. Then, water is slowly released from the chamber until the water level inside drops to match the lower side of the river. Once the levels are equal, the front gates open and the boat continues its journey.
When traveling in the opposite direction, water is pumped into the chamber to raise the boat to the higher level. It’s a simple yet brilliant piece of engineering that allows ships to move safely between different water levels on the Nile.
Sometimes the plan to visit may be delayed due to the high traffic of cruises and such a long queue to enter the Esana lock, as was in our case. Because of this delay, we had to drop a temple visit in the evening, and so we had to cover it the next day before dawn.
Epilogue
Those three days remain etched in our hearts like a gentle dream drifting through clouds. Yet this was no dream; it felt as if we were gliding like a swan over the deep blue waters of the Nile River.
Our cabin was thoughtfully designed and perfectly comfortable for a couple — spacious, with a large bathroom and ample room to move around without ever feeling cramped. In fact, the entire cruise felt wonderfully open and uncongested—whether on our cabin deck, in the restaurant, at the folk-dance floor, or along the surrounding balconies at the front and rear of the ship.
Tea, coffee, and snacks were served generously, adding warmth to every pause between excursions. While the cuisine did not quite match Indian flavors, we managed comfortably with familiar options like dal, rajma, bread, and rice.
Plan your visits while on the cruise—while on the Nile cruise, you can visit Edfu, Kom Ombo, and the Temple of Philae on your own and return back to the cruise. You can also visit Karnak, Luxor temples, Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and the Hatshepsut mortuary temple and then finally check out the next morning in Luxor.
Overall, it was a serene and indulgent journey, one that floated by softly yet left a lasting impression. I recommend visiting Egypt by cruise and not really by road.
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