In continuation of Seven Days in Vietnam – Part 1 of 2 we go ahead with next 3 days in South Vietnam. The city we visited is Ho Chi Minh (old name Saigon). Both N and S had a contrast history – totally different culturally. North was more of Chinese ethnicity and for long time under Chinese dynasties from Han to Ming, South Vietnam was under ethnic groups of Hindu Chams and mixture of Hindu-Buddha culture. Today if we compare North and South, latter has more industries and infrastructurally more advanced, yet the South Vietnamese still not reached to affluence. High rank jobs are mostly handled by North with higher package and still a thinking is there to think South as inferior.
To understand Vietnam we need to understand the background history of modern Vietnam.
In 1863 France captured Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam (N and S). North Vietnam was much under influence of China culturally and geographically while South Vietnam was under Hindu-Buddhist culture for long time so there was some kind of difference between the ideologies specially between the political groups there.
First Indochina war – In 1941 Ho Chi Minh founded Viet Minh (later called Viet Cong and People’s Liberation Army) , a gorilla group to liberate Indochina from France and establish communism. The Gorilla group of Vietnam were able to free N Vietnam and entered South Vietnam and built Cu-Chi tunnels etc as strategy of gorilla war against S. Vietnam France supported Govt. Finally in 1954 under Geneva convention Indochina was divided in four independent countries N. Vietnam, S. Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.
Second Indochina war- The public of S Vietnam was in support of Ho Chi Minh since they wanted freedom from France, but ruling party of S Vietnam and France took help of America to trample Liberation Army (N. Vietnam Ho Chi Minh grp). America was afraid that S. Vietnam also will be communist and then the whole world (Domino effect) under influence of China and Russia. So heavy bombings was carried out. Thousands of Vietnamese and Americans lost their life. Finally in 1975, 2nd Indo china war ended and N and S. Vietnam were united.
Our tour plan in Ho Chi Minh City was
Day 1 Jeep tour, Post office, City hall, Opera House, War Remnants Museum, Notre Dam cathedral
Day 2 Cu Chi Tunnel, Independence palace, Jade Emperor pagoda, Shopping
Day 3 Mekong Delta
Day 1 – Jeep tour, Post office, City hall, Opera House, War Remnants Museum, Emperor Jade Pagoda
We landed in Ho Chi Minh city afternoon with slightly late flight. Some 4 members in group had not Visa so our tour leader was trying for Visa on arrival and that a bit delayed our plan. We loaded our luggage in bus waiting for us and directly moved for late lunch of 3 PM. After that we had some jeeps waiting for us and we quickly started our short jeep tour of the city. It was slightly drizzling. We saw post office, City hall and Opera house and Emperor Jade pagoda, took photos quickly. Then we moved to War Remnants Museum as entry tickets close by 4.30. Luckily we were able to enter the War Museum. The museum is in 3 floors.
Emperor Jade Pagoda is one of the representations of the first God of Tao cult. He is king of God. There is no entry restriction inside for any religion. The temple is big and in main market with lot of local devotees visiting.
War Remnants Museum –
After this we headed to War Remnent Museum. All three floors of this museum are related to stories of American war only on Vietnam.
One the photo says – The U.S administration “escalated the war”. On Aug 2, 1964, it fabricated a story so called “Gulf of Tonkin Incident” accusing falsely the Navy of N. Vietnam of having attacked the US Destroyer which gave opportunity to US Congress authorizing the US to take necessary measures to repel the attack.
The other photos show the people running on roads, ruined houses, fire, hospitals, children studying in shelters, bombing planes, leaders meetings, use of agent orange and its after effects on people, hostages begging for life, dead bodies…..missiles, artists entertaining army in war and so on so forth.
These are few images here but the museum contains about two thousand such pictures which raise the hair of visitors be it from any coutry.
Day 2 Cu Chi Tunnel, Independence palace, Shopping
Our bus stopped at Cu-Chi tunnel after about 2 hours journey from Ho Chi Minh city. Some of us were in apprehension that they will not be able to enter the tunnel as it is very narrow. There was a confusion also created by the guide for again and again warning about tunnels. But somehow we dared to enter while some others stayed out.
To our dismay there was nothing to fear like that, all our tour to tunnel was on earth, except that at one point there was 3 floor tunnel of about 150 meters long and for that already some guards were waiting for us to guide us into the long, narrow and dark tunnel.
This tunnel was built by N. Vietnam gorillas to give a fight to American and S. Vietnam puppet govt. The gorillas made these tunnels as hideout. Today all guides take pride in explaining the bravery, high spirits and patriotism of Vietnamese.
There are different types of traps designed for the enemy trying to trace the fighters.
It had taken years by Americans to locate these tunnels.
The kitchens were such that fire was at one place but smoke vented out somewhere very far so that American forces can not guess the location of kitchen. The air vents in tunnel were made for breathing under hide of ant hills. There are many points inside to see the tunnel strategy applied those times.
Independence palace (reunification palace) is the one which is witness to the historical events which took place in Vietnam for independence.
Earlier on this site was residence of French Governor General. Following Geneva accord the old structure was renamed as Independence palace. But after 1962 bomb attack the old building was demolished and altogether new building made by architect Ngo Viet Thu and took 4 years to complete it.
This palace was bombed on April, 8, 1975 by Nugen Tanh Trung. He was an underground gorilla of communist North Vietnam and had somehow infiltrated in South Vietnam Air Force and flew a helicopter over Independence palace to bomb it. This act seriously undermined the South Vietnam government and prompted America to withdraw last Americans from land of South Vietnam.
On 30 April 1975, Liberation forces entered the palace and raised a flag of liberation for the first time on its roofing and then the President of South Vietnam General Duang Van Minh surrendered in front of Liberation forces. And thus the South Vietnam was liberated.
State Banquet Hall – It has capacity of 100 guests. Inaugural dinner in 1967 and last dinner was in 1975
to discuss the prospects of continuing US support to South Vietnam in war against N. Vietnam
Presidential Office – President of South Vietnam Nguyen Van Thieu was born in 1963. He was trained at National Officers School and subsequently in USA and France. He made rapid rise to power and became president of S. Vietnam in 1967. He wrote to US president on March 1975 appealing for an air assault against the liberation forces of communist North Vietnamese bases in S. Vietnam. His appeal was rejected and he resigned on April, 21, 1975.
Command Centre – The heavily shielded area was used as intelligence coordination center. Here we can see several maps which also show 17th parallel line which partitioned N and S Vietnam under Geneva Accord of 1954. Here is also shown the map of Cu-Chi Tunnel in South Vietnam. The area of Cu-Chi tunnel was used by Revolutionary forces (Liberation front) against Pro American S. Vietnam. The Liberation army backed by leader Ho Chi Minh was fighting for liberation of South by America and unification of Vietnam.
Conference Hall – 500 guests can sit here. On April, 21, 1975, the president of South Vietnam Nguyen Van Thieu declared his resignation here and have a 2 hour speech on decision of America to discontinue its support to South Vietnam. Today also this room is used for official receptions.
Bunker – This was designed by a Lt. Col and took 3 months to build. During bombing of April,8, 1975 S. Vietnam president family took shelter here.
Ambassadors Chamber – Before 1975, many countries had embassies in Saigon. Newly arrived ambassadors presented their credentials to President of S. Vietnam. The furnishing in room are of Japanese style entitled – “Declaration of victory over Ming”. The last ambassador received was newly appointed Japanese ambassador on April,18, 1975.
National Security Council Chamber – The room was used by S. Vietnam’s high officials and US advisors. The walls are hung with maps documenting the war situation in South. On March, 1975, faced with continuing advance of liberation forces, a decision was taken to evacuate Hue city.
Day 3 – Mekong Delta
It was a bus ride of about 2.5 hours from Ho Chi Minh to Cai Be harbor of Mekong river. On way we had a halt of about 45 minutes to see the Bamboo show room, the same type we had seen in Hanoi on return for Ha Long bay. Some of our friends purchased newer designs and idea products made of bamboo. It is surprising that washroom in Vietnam and Cambodia are free unlike in Europe. Mekong is 5000 km long and is lifeline of Thailand, Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Finally merges into South China sea and lot of canals are made in it naturally with coconut trees on both sides. This river makes 4000 sq km fertile and provides 17% of GDP of Viet.
After reaching harbor we took a large motor boat of capacity of about 100 persons. It was a nice ride in Mekong river and a great experience. In about 45 minutes we reached an island Phoenix. There are many islands in Mekong delta. We were given a bee farming show. Then the guide took us for showing the fruits grown in these islands. We had free fruit juices and tasted the tropical local fruits. There was a welcome songs show for us in their local language for best wishes to tourists. Local food Lunch was served to us and even vegetarians had enough varieties. After spending about 6-7 hours in delta we returned back by same large boat. Our return bus was waiting at harbor to take us to Ho Chi Minh city in 2 hours.
Tourism to Mekong delta is well managed by Vietnam tourism. There are no rushes and crowd. The islands are kept neat and clean. It no doubt reflects an effect of nature on a different culture of Vietnamese. Vietnamese still are not exploiting very advance techniques of fishing yet they are able to protect the natural peace of nature.
Epilogue
As said the past, culture and ideology of both N and S Vietnam was different, the journey to Vietnam will be incomplete if we see only North or only South. Ho Chi Minh City is commercial city of Vietnam as is Mumbai to India. Saigon and Mekong together provide 47% of GDP of Vietnam and is hub of lot of industries. Few years back the tourism infrastructure of country was not good (as guide told us) at all but seeing the rise in fever of tourists, it has improved a lot. Vietnamese are hard worker and fights, struggles since 2000 years has made them iron. It will take certainly some time to recover from the results of those exploitations.
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