Ranikhet Hills – Kumaon Travel Part -1

Cradled in the arms of the majestic Himalayas, Kumaon is not just a destination — it’s a calling. With its emerald lakes, pine-scented forests, snow-capped peaks, and timeless villages, Kumaon invites you to pause, breathe, and reconnect with nature and yourself.
Whether you’re seeking the thrill of mountain adventures, the serenity of misty mornings by Naini Lake, or the quiet spirituality of temples like Hedakhan and Jhula Devi, they offer a deeply personal escape. Trek through hidden trails of Tari Khet, Ganiyadauli, wake up to panoramic sunrises over peaks of the Himalayas, and experience the warmth of mountain hospitality that touches your heart. This is your time to break free from the ordinary, to write your own story among the clouds, and to let the magic of Kumaon awaken your spirit.
Ranikhet, which means Meadows of Queen, is located in the Almora district, state of Uttarakhand, India. It is an all-season tourist spot and presents the best views of pine forests and Himalayan views. In 1869, the British established the Kumaon and Naga regiments here.
Ranikhet is a hill station that has a treasure of natural beauty. It does not boast of parks, famous temples, museums, or lakes; still, it is in line with, or I will say a bit ahead of, the best hill stations in India. If you go for a morning stroll on Mall Road to West View via Chevron, you will not find anyone except you amid beautiful silver oak, green oak, pine, and Bruce jungle. You can exactly imagine then that you are part of a poster, which you can imagine in a dream. Just sit in front of the Jhula Devi temple, walk from Jhula Devi to Chaubatia Garden, and take a taxi drive from Sadar Bazar to Tarikhet, Heda Khan. Amid the huge spread of pine forest, I bet this will provide you with an unforgettable experience.
Where to stay
The big question is where to stay in these places. I personally always prefer to stay in GVMN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) guest houses, which can be booked online. Staff is good, though not all GMVNs are maintained so well, but their surroundings and campus are beautiful everywhere. I blindly book state-run hotels everywhere. I recommend it for average and budget hotels. For the Kumaon region, like Ranikhet, the KVMN (Kumaon Vikas Mandal Nigam) rest houses can be booked.
Location
Situated in Uttarakhand, India. The easiest way to get to Ranikhet is by flying into Delhi. After that, you can catch one of the many trains to the final railway stop, Kathgodam. It’s 68 km from there. You’ll find plenty of taxis and government buses waiting at Kathgodam.
History
A popular folklore is that when Rani Padmini of Raja Sukherdev visited, she was so enchanted by the beauty of this place that she decided to make an abode for herself. Hence the name Ranikhet.
My Eleven-Days Itinerary to visit part of Kumaon Hills

Trekking/ Hiking
When we visit hill stations like Ranikhet, often called the queen of natural beauty and a prime location for peace, we discover a place that remains untouched by the typical concrete jungle thanks to its cantonment status. This means Ranikhet is still enveloped in lush greenery all around. So, if you find yourself there, trekking is an absolute must. Some well-known trekking paths include Chaubatia Garden to Holm Farm, Hotel Meghdoot to Jhula Devi, Chaubatia to Bhalu Dam, and Parwati Inn to Sadar Bazar and Mall Road. For those seeking more adventure, there are longer treks of 10-12 km to Chiliynaula and Tarikhet.
Places to see
Chaubatia Garden: 9 km from Sadar Bazar.
Guides are available here to take you for jungle trekking to Bhalu Dam which is about 4 km from Chaubatia Garden.

Regrettably, the Chaubatia Garden has lost all of its vitality and now appears neglected. Only a few offices seem to operate merely for the sake of appearances.

You can spend some time in this garden and look at the various Himalayan peaks.

Hedakhan Temple: 5 km from Sadar Bazar.
This is a large ashram dedicated to Baba Hedakhan. There are rooms available for anyone who needs a place to stay. You can also find religious books about Baba Hedakhan for sale here. The view of the Himalayas from the temple is absolutely stunning.

Jhuladevi temple: just 7 km away from Sadar Bazar.
This temple has thousands of bells. Devotees install bells here once their wishes are granted. In the past, goats were sacrificed at this site, but that tradition has been discontinued.

Kalkaji golf ground : 6 km from Sadar Bazar. It is owned by the army but open to the public also. It has 9 holes.
Taarikhet : 10 km from Sadar Bazar.

Chiliyanaula :  6 km from Sadar Bazar.

Binsar Mahadev Temple: 16 km from Sadar Bazar.
There are two Binsar Mahadev temples located in Uttarakhand. One is about 34 km from Almora in the Binsar region, while the other is in Soni village, Ranikhet. This temple isn’t as well-known as the one in Almora. Every year, starting from May 30, a fair takes place here for 10 days. Women who wish to conceive pray all night, holding oil lamps in their hands. The legend surrounding this temple tells of the Manihar tribe that once inhabited this area. A cow would often wander here and spill its milk. One day, a shepherd from the Manihar tribe followed the cow and discovered it pouring its milk onto a rock, which absorbed the milk. Angered, the shepherd struck the rock with his axe, causing a stream of blood to flow. That same night, he dreamt that Lord Shiva instructed the Manihars to leave the village. Consequently, the entire Manihar tribe relocated to the Ramhangar area. Years later, a 60-year-old man without children dreamt of a saint who told him to search for a shivling near the Kunj River and to build a temple there. The man followed the saint’s advice, constructed the temple, and his wish for a child was granted.

Later this temple was further developed by Baba Mohangiri, and this is the temple that we now see in Binsar Mahadev.

One British Commonwealth Games Cemetery
On the way back from Taarikhet, the driver pulled over at a really remote spot and told me to step off the road, pointing towards a cemetery. It was exciting to see a cemetery that was around 200-250 years old.

Kainchi Dham Temple
This temple, founded in 1964, is located 38 km from Ranikhet on the route to Nainital. Notable devotees of this temple include Mark Zuckerberg, Steve Jobs, Ram Dass, Larry Brilliant, Yvette Rosser, and Daniel.
Each year, during the well-known bhandara on June 15th, it is said that over 100,000 people are served food. In the winter months, the ashram shuts down for about 4-5 months due to the extreme cold.

Staying Inside the Ashram
To get started, you need a letter of introduction from one of the senior devotees. Then, shoot an email to the manager at kainchidham@gmail.com to ask for permission to stay at Maharaji-ji’s Kainchi Dham Ashram.
Epilogue
If you’re a nature enthusiast and have 4 days to spare for trekking, I highly recommend you check out this spot. Trust me, it’s unforgettable. Seriously. But if you’re after some entertainment, this isn’t the right place for you. And definitely steer clear of wandering down jungle paths after dark, as you might run into some wild animals. There have been recent sightings of tigers in the area.