Agni Teertham is where I am right now. The sun rising, the huge blue sky, a few boats floating like ocean butterflies, and hundreds of devotees bathing in the holy sea to wash away their sins with a sense of hope and calming hope that they would be cleansed of their transgressions. Beside Rama and Seeta, I observe Lakshmana bowing. The expressions of Lord Rama and Lakshma are both deeply contemplative and dejected. Ram tells Lakshmana to start a fire so Seeta can demonstrate her purity.
Seeta enters the Agni and displays her purity, as I watch.
After touching Seeta, Agni is likewise hurt and grieved. In order to atone for his transgression, he bathes in this ocean, “Agni Teertham.”
I too enter “Agni Teertham” today to cleanse myself.
After taking a bath, I walk about half a kilometer to get to the main temple of Rameshwaram while wearing garments soaked in water.
I see that the deposit counters to drop off all of your large bags. I also do the same, although I keep my phone with me. I pay Rs. 25 to enter the line, cross 22 Teertham holy wells, and am completely soaked with the holy water that volunteers toss at me in buckets.
Witnessing thousands of people take such one after another 22 Teertham baths is an confounding experience. This is our belief, and for the rest of our lives, we gather and assimilate God’s divine might in this way.
After we pass through all these 22 teerthams we enter the main temple complex. It was an almost never ending line of devotees keen on darshan of Shiva linga. All creeping along in line at snail’s pace, I get an startling view of colossal architecture. We heard a lot about the religious importance of Rameshwaram dham (Lord Shiva). But its stupendous architecture, jaw dropping creation is overshadowed under fervor of devotion. Let me try to describe it. Obviously I am at loss for words.
Needless to say that it is longest corridor, a labyrinth of iridescent corridors, on Earth, it feels like a never ending constellation of pillars which surround us as soon as we enter the temple. Majestic, amazing, corscating art on walls and roofs, tall bronze obelisks in front of deities, towering towers, huge sacred water tanks are some of its features.
There is a sea of devotees seeking blessings not only from the Deities but also from the magnetic aura around. The aura which not only exudes and glows from all corners of the temple but also from each devotee who comes here. This is amazing creation.
Rameswaram is one of the four Dhams (four abodes): Badrinath, Jagannath, Dwarka, and Rameswaram, as defined by Adi Shankaracharya. This place is also one of the 12 jyotirlinga in India. It is considered highly sacred by Hindus to visit Char Dham during one’s lifetime.
How to reach Rameswaram
Madurai is the nearest airport. Ramanathapuram (56 KM) and Mandapam (23 KM) are well connected to Rameswaram by train and road from Madurai (175 KM), Kanyakumari (308 KM), and major cities in India. Volvo buses are also available from Madurai and Kanyakumari.
Ramanathapuram (RMD) to Mandapam (MMM) trains (35-minute journey) are available. The bus stand is just a 5-minute walk from Ramnathapuram railway station. You can take a bus directly from Ramanathapuram to Rameswaram (1.5 hours). There are no trains now available to RAMESWARAM (RMM) since the old railway bridge (the old Pamban Bridge) is obsolete and a new rail bridge is under construction.
Our itinerary
Bengaluru – Rameswaram – Madurai-Kanyakumari-Bengaluru : Leisurely 6N and 7D
If we have less time on our disposal, we can cover these places in 4N, 5D also.
Since the new Pamban bridge is under construction, we got the train not up to Rameswaram. We had to get down at Ramanathapuram railway station. Since bus station was at 5 minutes walk from railway station, we caught government bus charging Rs.118 per passenger. It covered distance of 56 Km in just one hour 20 minutes as roads are fantastic. Taxi charges Rs. 2000.
After spending 2 nights in Rameswaram, we caught a government AC bus in morning for Madurai. The government bus was OK and we reached Madurai in 2 hours 10 minutes. The private buses, Volvo only ply in evening from Rameswaram to Madurai.
Where to stay in Rameswaram
There are large number of dharamshalas (innards) and high end hotels in Ramnathapuram, Mandapam and Rameswaram. If you have come to see the main Rameswaram temple, it is better to stay in Rameswaram, rather than Ramnathapuram or Mandapam. Hyatt Place, most luxurious hotel, Daiwik Hotel and Hotel Ashoka are popular mid-range choices. Alternatively, Blue Coral Cottage is perfect for budget travelers. I suggest to book Tamil Nadu state government hotel which is budget to mid range and can be easily booked online on TTDC link.
What to see in Rameswaram and time needed
If you have to see only main temple (Ramaswamy temple) then 6 hours are enough. If you want to see some famous other landmark temples then 1 night and 2 full days are required.
Day 1 – Checkin hotel, visit Agni Teertham, take bath in sea and with same soaked cloth walk to Main temple, soak yourself in 24 Teertham’s holy water, stand in long queue for Shiva Lingam darshan, roam around temple – total will take 5 -6 hours
Pind Daan is supposed to be very auspicious in Rameswaram. Government rates are displayed for all types of rituals and puja but normally pandits take more but still under reasonable limits.
Legend associated with Rameswaram
In very brief the significance of Rameswaram as per Hindu legends is Construction of Ram Setu by Lord Rama before invading Ravana and on return worship Shiva Linga to be absolved of killing of Brahmin (Ravana).
Lord Rama was seventh incarnation of Lord Vishnu (the protectecor). Lord Rama had killed king Ravana of Lanka in war against evil and bring his consort Seeta back. On return to mainland some saints suggested him to setup and pray Shiva lings to be absolved of the sin of killing a brahmin (Ravana). Since Linga could not be made of sand, Ram ordered hanuman to get Linga from Kailash, Himalaya. But somehow hanuman got delayed and so Seeta setup the Linga of Lord Shiva. On return Hanuman was angry to know that his efforts wasted. To pacify the situation, Ram asked hanuman to place his Linga in place of Seeta’s Linga. But with efforts hanuman could not displace Seeta’s ling. Then Rama first did the worship of Seeta Linga and then Hanumans. The main Ramaswamy temple is believed to contain these two Lingas and same order of worship is followed here as tradition.
There is another version of this legend
According to Shiva Purana once Brahma and Vishnu argued about who was the greatest among them. While they debated, they saw a huge column of fire piercing through the sky. They decided to locate the source and extent of this column. Vishnu assumed the form of a boar and journeyed towards the netherworld and Brahma mounted a goose and travelled towards the heavens. Vishnu accepted his defeat, declaring that he had been unable to locate the source. However, Brahma recruited the ketaki flower as a false witness to support his lie that he had located the source. Shiva emerged from the fire in his bodily form and cut off one of Brahma’s heads for his dishonesty, proclaiming that he would no longer be worshipped. Pleased with Vishnu, Shiva offered him a high status in worship.
As per Madhavacharya, not Rama but Shiva who had incurred ‘Brahmahatya’ sin as he had once chopped off Lord Brahma’s head. Shiva had prayed to Vishnu to relieve him of the sin and Vishnu promised to do so in his Rama avatar the moment Rama installed the Shiva Linga here Shiva immediately got relieved of ‘Brahmahatya’ sin due to the grace of Rama’s touch.
Day 2 – Gandhamadhana (Rama foot) parvatam, Kothandaramaswamy (Vibheesan temple), Dhanuskoti, Lighthouse at Dhanuskoti, return from Dhanuskoti, Ram Teertham, Panchmukhi hanuman, Lakshman teertham, Seeta teertham, Villondi Teertham, Abdul Kalam museum, Pamban bridge – 7 hours
On our day 2 of stay, after our breakfast at 11 AM we caught an auto for Rs. 2000 for seeing the above local points and Dhanuskoti.
He covered Gandhamadhana (Rama foot) parvartnam, Kothandaramaswamy (Vibheesan temple), Dhanuskoti, Lighthouse at Dhanuskoti, return from Dhanuskoti, Ram Teertham, Panchmukhi hanuman, Lakshman teertham, Seeta teertham, Villondi teertham, Abdul Kalam museum and lastly Pamban bridge. It was altogether 7 hours trip.
Gandhamadhana is the temple now believed to be place from where Hanuman had launched to Lanka. This temple has foot steps of lord Rama.
Onway to Dhanuskoti we saw Kothandaramaswamy (Vibheesan temple) where lord Rama had crowned Vibhisan as future king of Lanka. Our thirsd point was Dhanuskoti which is 20 KM from Rameshwaram main temple.
Dhanuskoti, as per legends and popular belief is that Lord Rama had destroyed the floating bridge with end of his bow as Vibhisan requested him from protection from enemies from other side. Some say it was existing and destroyed in tsunami of Dec, 1964.
When we reached Dhanuskoti there was no habitation except some huts of fishermen there. It is not allowed to stay there after 6 PM. We can see the mesmerizing beauty of three oceans here, the Arabian sea, Bay of Bengal and Indian ocean far invisible. Before devastating tsunami and thereafter a cyclone of speed of 280 KMph, all buildings, post office, church, one passenger train and a railway station were wiped out. Now we can just see the naked remnants of few buildings. During British time it was setup as a trade port for goods, tea and transporting labor from India.
The cheapest option is to take the state government bus from Agni Theetham in Rameshwaram. The frequency of buses is approximately every 30 minutes and tickets cost 30 rupees per person, one way.
There are few more religious spots in Rameshwaram which we saw on return back from Dhanuskoti.
We visited Ram Teertham, Panchmukhi hanuman, Lakshman teertham, Seeta teertham, Villondi teertham, Abdul Kalam museum and lastly Pamban bridge. I am including here few pictures.
Villondi teertham is the place where it is believed that Ram pierced earth to quench the thirst of Seeta. Even today we get sweet water out here. We tasted the water here.
The memorial of Abdul Kalam was one of the best maintained memoir museum. Photography and mobiles are strictly prohibited here inside.
Pamban bridge was the only link between Pamban island (Rameswaram) and mainland till road bridge was built in 1988. The old bridge which is now shutdown was built in 1914. The new bridge parallel to it is under construction since 2020.
Epilogue
When we come to Rameswaram, the devotees first take bath in Agni teertham. Then in same soaked clothes they need to enter the temple premises where holy water is tossed on them by volunteers by bucket. After completing this, they have to come in queue to have darshan of Shiva Linga. The whole process takes about 4 hours.
In this process we get tired and next day we should plan to visit local temples and Dhanus koti. It takes about 6 hours for local site seeing in Rameswaram.
You can extend your journey by one more day to see -Ariyaman beach, Kunthukal beach, Devipattanaam village, Kurusadai island, Karangadu, Tiru Uthirakosa Mangalam temple, Sethukarai, Ramalinga Vilasam palace, Kanjiran Kulam and Chitragudi bird sanctuary
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