Patal Bhuvneshwar – Kumaon Travel Part -1

Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 8.15 AM
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“He who wants to feel the presence of eternal power should come to the sacred Bhuvneshwar situated near the confluence of Ramganga, Saryu and Gupt-Ganga.” – Manaskhanda, Skandapuran, whose 800 verses refer to Patal Bhuvaneshwar.

After exploring both India and other countries, I can confidently say that Uttarakhand is like the Switzerland of India. In many places around the world, a hill station might only last for a few kilometers, but in Uttarakhand, India, you can revel in breathtaking natural beauty for hundreds of kilometers. The endless stretches of pine, silver and green oak, bruce, and cedar, along with ancient temples and rivers, create an unending list of wonders. The experience is truly beyond words. Before you embark on your journey, leave behind your office, home, worries, and any negative thoughts, and get ready for an adventure in Uttarakhand

Legend and folklore state that it enshrines Lord Shiva and 33 crore Hindu gods. Normally all pilgrims club Jageshwar Dham and Patal Bhuvneshwar together. It is also believed that worshiping at Patal Bhuvaneshwar is equivalent to worshiping at the Char Dham of Uttarakhand.

How to reach

Patal Bhuvaneshwar is a limestone cave temple is located in village Bhubneshwar, 103 KM from Jageshwar dham, 110 KM from Almora, 172 KM from Nainital via Almora.

My Itinerary for complete Uttarakhand’s Kumaun trip

Kathgodam-Almora-Jageshwar-Patal Bhuvneshwar-gangolihat-Chaukori-Bagheshwar-Baijnath Dham-Kausani-Ranikhet-Nainital-Mukteshwar-Nainital-Kathgodam Note: Munshiyari is not shown as I skipped it
Kathgodam-Almora-Jageshwar-Patal Bhuvneshwar-gangolihat-Chaukori-Bagheshwar-Baijnath Dham-Kausani-Ranikhet-Nainital-Mukteshwar-Nainital-Kathgodam Note: Munshiyari is not shown as I skipped it

Legend of Cave

The first person to find this cave was Raja Ritupurna, a king from the Surya Dynasty who ruled Ayodhya during the Treta Yuga. The tale begins with Ritupurna and King Nala. Legend has it that King Nala was once defeated by his wife, Queen Damayanti. To escape imprisonment, Nala asked Ritupurna for help in hiding. Ritupurna took him to the Himalayan forests and told him to stay there. On his way back, he became intrigued by a deer that dashed into the woods and decided to follow it. After losing track of the deer, he rested under a tree. In his dream, the deer pleaded with Ritupurna not to pursue it. When he awoke, he found himself at a cave where a guard stood watch. After asking about the cave, he was permitted to enter. At the entrance, Ritupurna encountered Sheshnag, who offered to guide him through the cave. Sheshnag carried him on its hood, and inside, he witnessed the wonders of the Gods. He saw all the 33-koti gods and goddesses, including Lord Shiva himself. It’s said that after his visit, the cave remained sealed for centuries, with a hint in the Skandpurana that it would be reopened in Kaliyuga. Later, Shankarcharya rediscovered this cave during his journey to the Himalayas in Kalyug. Since then, people have been regularly worshipping and making offerings at this site.

Journey into the cave

Exploring the cave is to be carried out in very dim lights and the use of protective iron chains. You can spot the Sheshnag stone formations, which seem to hold the earth, sky, and the world below. A ‘Havan’ (altar) takes place in a softly lit, serious setting, accompanied by sacred chants. You’ll be amazed by the idea that these areas are linked to the heavenly realms of His residence in Kailash. It’s said that the cave has an underground connection to Mount Kailash. Legend has it that the Pandavas, the heroes from the ‘Mahabharat’, embarked on their final journey in the Himalayas after meditating here before Lord Shiva. Additionally, it’s thought that worshipping at Patal Bhuvaneshwar is as significant as worshipping at the Char Dham in Uttarakhand.

Stay at Hotel

My time at this hotel was truly unforgettable, making me forget all about my long, winding drive. Hotels are pretty rare in Patal Bhuvneshwar. I booked to stay at Hotel Parwati Resort. It’s a good idea to reserve your room ahead of time, especially during peak season (from the end of March to the end of October). I woke up at 5 AM and enjoyed some stunning views of the Himalayas right from my hotel room. I soaked in the breathtaking scenery from 5 AM until 8:30 AM.

Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 5.15 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 5.15 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 5.40 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 5.40 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 6.00 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 6.00 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 7.00 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 7.00 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 8.15 AM
Himalaya View from Hotel Parwati Resort at 8.15 AM

The hotel features a stunning large balcony that overlooks the Himalayas. The rooms are fantastic, which is why I decided to extend my stay by an additional 2 days. The meals, including lunch, dinner, and breakfast, were excellent, and the hospitality was truly amazing.

While taking breakfast
While taking breakfast
Breakfast in open
Breakfast in open

My Excursions

6.30 AM hotel staff accompanied us to a small trekking point called “Tiger Top”. 30 minutes to-and fro visit time.

Tiger point-name given by British
Tiger top-name given by British
View from Tiger Trail
View from Tiger top

At 8 AM, after having breakfast, the hotel staff offered to drive me to the cave temple (4 KM by car), but I chose to walk instead (3 KM). They provided me with a staff to help guide me along the footpath. It took about 25 minutes to get to the cave temple.

My experience in the cave

Even though there’s no real danger, you should mentally gear up to crawl through the cave for about 90 feet. The caution board advises against entering if you have asthma or during the rainy season since oxygen levels drop even more then. Enter at your own risk. An official guide is provided for the cave, and entry is managed with a bell and music to ensure only one-way traffic.

Inside, you can see the 7 hoods of Sheshnag supporting the earth, heaven, Raja Bhagiratha, and the Ganga flowing through Lord Shiva’s hair. Water drips steadily from the Ganga inside the cave. The guide also pointed out Lord Ganesh’s beheaded head and shared the tale of how he came back to life thanks to the water from Bhamh Kamal. He also showed us scenes of the Pandavas gambling, along with Gangotri dham, Yamunotri, Kedarnath, and Badrinath. It’s said that the cave connects to Varanasi and Badrinath.

No photographs are allowed inside the cave.

On our way back from the cave, my friend walked for 35 minutes, while a local villager gave me a ride to Parvati Resort on his motorcycle for Rs.100.

Parwati Resort Hotel rooms

A room in hotel
A room in hotel

Epilogue

Three distinct features of Patal Bhuvneshwar. First, there’s the sacred Patal Bhuvneshwar caves, which are on par with the Char Dham pilgrimage in Uttarakhand. Second, the breathtaking Himalayas, which I believe are even more impressive than those in Kausani. Lastly, there’s the Parwati Resort, the only hotel that offers a complete view of the Himalayas along with trekking assistance.

 

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