Omkareshwar was along awaited destination and I remember when I was in Ujjain in 2017 I missed the direct bus to Omkareshwar which was about 4-5 hours journey. After 5 years we planned the visit to Mandu, Maheshwar and Omkareshwar and it was all by taxi from Indore.
How to reach
Nearest major railway and bus stations are Indore (77 KM), Khandwa (66), Mhow (68 KM) and Maheshwar (58 KM). Buses and taxies are available easily from these places. Nearest airport is Indore.
How much time needed to visit
One full day
Where to stay
There are many hotels. We stayed in Tamanna Palace, 3 KM from main temple at Rs.1200 per day. The good restaurant is in hotel itself. There are many other hotels also around for stay.
Before explaining about the concepts of Mahakaal, Kaal Bhairav and Jyotirlinga let me share my experience in Omkareshwar.
It was about 12 PM when we reached Omkareshwar from Maheshwar by taxi in 1.5 hours. It charged me Rs.1200. No one was ready for less than that.
I asked the taxi driver to look for some hotels for 2 nights stay. He showed me few hotels and few were not vacant. But finally we got in Tamanna Palace hotel. Room was spacious, airy and all rooms could accommodate easily 4 persons.
We had lunch is hotel (aalu paratha-curd) and took an E-Rikshaw for Rs.20 each to reach the bank of Narmada river. From here boats were available for Rs.150 each to take us through 3-4 points (shown from far) like Shankaracharya tall statue, OM shape in Narmada. It was about 30 minutes in boat and we got down finally on bottom of the Omkareshwar temple hill.
We took about 15 minutes to reach the gate of main temple. There was a long queue already waiting and we took the queue. It took us exact 2.0 hours to complete the darshan. Please keep water bottle with you while in queue. I think there is no need to take any Panda service for ‘VIP darshan’ for which they charge Rs.200 per person.
By 4 pm we completed the darshan and then purchased some rudraksha and granite shiv lingas and crossed the bridge to reach Mamleshwar Jyotirlinga. It is general belief that darshan of Omkareshwar is assumed complete only when we also have darshan of Mamleshwar.
Darshan timing – 5 AM-12.20 PM (mangala darshan), 1.15- 4 PM (Madhyana darshan), 4.15 -8.30 (Shringaar darshan), 9 PM- 9.30 PM (shayan shringaar darshan). Better to reach in morning for darshan to avoid crowd but normally any other time it will not take more than 2 hours for darshan even in rush.
As per Shiv Puran sloka composed by Nandi- Omkara is the place where the Jyotirlinga is situated and the Lingam is called Amareswara (Mamleswara). But since there can not be 13 jyotirlingas so rationally it is accepted that half Jyotirlinga is in Omkareshwar and half in Mamleswara.
There was not any big queue in Mamleshwara and in 30 minutes we completed this darshan. We were back to hotel by 7.30 PM
The next day we just took complete rest in hotel as were were tired of long journey of Mandu and Maheshwar too. Next day we hired a taxi(bargain is possible) for Khandwa for Rs. 1800 to catch Karnataka express. At Khandwa we also saw the Kishor Kumar Memorial.
Our Itinerary
Who is Maha Kaal?
There are 64 forms of Shiva. Shiva never takes incarnation. He is neither born nor dies (unlike Vishnu). As per Shiv Puran Lord Shiva had taken form of “Mahakal” to kill the Demon Dushan who used to plunder devotees of Lord Shiva in Ujjain.
Who is Kaal Bhairav?
Once Bramha got egoistic and thought himself as powerful as Lord Shiva and started interfering in work of Shiva. To pacify him Shiva threw his nail of his one finger which took form of Kaal Bhairav and which chopped of a head of Bramha. So we see skull of Bramha in hands of Kaal Bhairav. Earlier Bramha had 5 heads and since then he has 4 heads. Puranas gives different versions of Bhairava. In this version there was a war between gods and demons. To eradicate the demons, Shiva created Kala Bhairava. Another version says that Kaal Bhairav is son of Lord Shiva.
What is Jyotirlinga?
Once there was argument between Brahma and Vishnu as to who is supreme as creator. To test this Shiva created a pillar (linga) of light (jyoti) and asked them to touch top. Brahma lied that he reached till top while Vishnu conceded defeat. Shiva cursed Brahma that he will not be part of any ceremonies while Vishnu will be worshiped eternally. This form of pillar of light created by Shiva is called Jyotirlinga which represents no begin no end, symbolizing the infinite nature of Shiva.
Epilogue
One day is enough for this place. The place is very neat and green. Still the population is not so much and the town is away from noise and gives a good feeling going around. Locals and auto rickshaw guys are good and cordial. Hotels are plenty and you can better take hotel slightly away also from temple as conveyance is easily available.
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