March, 2017
After traveling extensively throughout India and abroad, I can confidently assert that Uttarakhand is akin to the Switzerland of India. In many regions around the globe, a hill station may conclude after just a few kilometers; however, in Uttarakhand, India, one can revel in breathtaking natural wonders that extend for hundreds of kilometers. The seemingly endless expanse of pine trees, silver and green oaks, birch, cedar, ancient temples, and rivers is truly remarkable.
The experience is beyond verbal description. Prior to embarking on your journey, it is essential to set aside your office, home, worries, and any negative thoughts and embrace this adventure to Uttarakhand.
Location
Situated in the state of Uttarakhand, India. The most effective way to arrive at Mukteshwar is by flying to Delhi. From Delhi, numerous trains are accessible to transport you to the final railway station, Kathgodam. From that point, it is a distance of 62 km. A variety of taxis and government buses are available for hire from Kathgodam.
Where to stay
There are several hotels in Mukteshwar and guest houses and who so ever comes to Nainital also visits Mukteshwar, I think KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) rest house here is an ideal place to stay and it provides panoramic views of the mountains. It is very near to Mukteshwar temple. Alternatively you can stay at Nainital also and take a day trip to Mukteshwar.
My 11-Days Itinerary to visit part of Kumaon Hills
When we go to Nainital, we definitely need to check out Mukteshwer, which is around 50 KM away. This spot is 7500 feet above sea level, which is 700 feet higher than Nainital. We arranged a taxi for Rs.2500 for a two-day trip—one day for exploring local Nainital and the next day for Mukteshwar. The main reason I wanted to visit Mukteshwar was to see the Golu temple at Ghorakhal, the tea gardens, and the deep deodar forests of Uttarakhand (spanning about 650 Sq KM), along with a 350-year-old Shiva temple (though the local guide claims it’s actually 5350 years old) that gave this place its name.
I really want to give a shoutout to the driver from Nainital for being my guide throughout the trip.
On our way to Mukteshwar, we passed by Golu Temple, Bhowali-Ghorakhal, and some beautiful tea gardens. Just 10 km from Nainital, we stopped at the Golu Devta temple. If you’re in Kumaon, it’s essential to know about Golu Devta. I remember seeing a couple at the Almora Chitai temple of Golu Devta who came to seek blessings.
In Kumaon, there are three well-known Golu Devta temples: the first one is in Champawat, the second in Chitai, Almora, and the third at Bhowali-Ghorakhal.
The local priest mentioned that people from all over India visit these temples to pray to Golu Devta for justice, and once their wishes are granted, they hang a bell in the temple. There are thousands of bells in this temple.
I feel really lucky to have visited two Golu Devta temples on this trip, one in Almora and the other here. By the way, the wedding scenes from the movie ‘Vivah’ were filmed here.
As per Wikipedia as well as locals told me that Golu Devta is an incarnation of Lord Shiva and he is dispenser of justice to people. Historically he is considered as brave son and general of Katyuri king Jhal Rai. But there are various different stories about Lord Golu. In some version it is said that he worked as a general in Chand king Baz Bahadur army and after his death Baj Bahadur constructed this temple in Ghorakhal, Bhowali, Dist. Nainital.
Story of Golu Devta as per locals
The local pandit told me the story of Golu devta that Katyuri king had 7 wives but still king was childless. Once king met a lady named Kalika rani (she is supposed to be associated with goddess) during hunting and brought her to his palace.
She became pregnant and other 7 queens got jealous and while birth replace the child with a stone and thrown child in a river. Later the child (known as Golu) was rescued by a fisherman. When this child grew he requested Fisherman to provide him a horse to go to Champawat.
As a joke fisherman gave wooden horse to the child Golu. Since Golu was incarnation of God he managed to use the wooden horse and reached Champawat. In a pond he brought his wooden horse to drink water. Katuri king Jhal Rai 7 queens were taking bath that time and started laughing. The child Golu told that when a Katuri king wife can give birth to a stone then why wooden horse can not drink water. This news spread in Champavat and king called for this child. Finally justice was given to queen and Golu. So Golu devta is called god of justice and all his Idols in temple show him with a horse behind.
Further on way
The guide told that Mukteshwar belt is fruit and potato bowl. Seems true as I saw many orchards all along road.
Tea Gardens on the way
The difference between tea fields in Munnar or Ooty is that in Uttarakhand most of the tea field are on flat field. As per tea factory personnel the water flow is done by using drains in the field. There is interesting history of Uttarakhand tea that I will tell in other article of Uttarakhand.
Reaching the Mukteshwar Dham Temple
The entry to Mukteshwar dham was welcomed by ASI Board.
I think guide is not required for this. He will just show 4 view points and will show a few herbs plants and medicinal values of trees.
Main Shiva temple : As per Wikipidia Shiva temple is 350 years old while as per guide it is 5350 years. Guide told that these are local anecdotes carried by generations. As per local anecdotes during exile Pandavas came here and stayed for some time. For some reasons Pandava Yudhishthira lied to saints here for some reason and sages gave him some curse. In dream Yudhishthira was asked to erect a Shiva temple and with help of sages and Pandava the temple was constructed 5350 years back. God Shankar appeared before Yudhishthira and from here only Pandavas went to heaven. But I am not sure about this uncertain story.
Chauli ki Jaali : It is a round hole created in the rock. As per God on day of Mahashiv ratri, married childless couple pass through this hole to get conceived.
Nag fani Padah (Snake hood rock) : The guide told that long long ago a
sage performed very hard worship of Lord Shiva and Shiva had appeared before him. Again this is as per local anecdote since generations.
Jungle Tour
Just 1 KM tour. I think guide is not needed for this.
Temples at the Dham
Epilogue
I feel when you visit Nainital, you must visit Mukteshwar also, which is 50 km from Nainital. You can come across to see the Ghorakhal Golu Devta temple, which is part of Uttarakhand culture, tea fields, and orchards of all kinds of fruits grown in Kumayon. If you visit from Sep to Nov, you can see a stupendous view of the Himalayas, and if you visit in the rainy season, you can see Kumaon in the full youth of greenery. Though I did not find any proof and was unconvinced about the ancientness of the Mukteshwar temple in any way, it is a peaceful and great place, and many visitors come here daily. Again, in the end, I can say it is “not to miss place”.
