I was under misconception that Maheshwar (ancient name Mahismati) was a pilgrimage like Omkareshwar. But after coming here I found that Parikrama pilgrims mandatorily visit this place in thousands to have pious darshan of Maratha Queen Ahilyabai who was revivor of the Hindu temples and religion which had severe onslaught from Muhammad Ghori to Aurangzeb periods.
Her contribution to Somnath was that she continued the place as worship by reconstructing old temple destroyed by Muhammad Ghazni. Her old temple is 200 meters away from new Somnath temple sponsored by Sardar Patel.
She renovated the Kashi Vishwanath Temple in 1780, a century after it was razed by Aurangzeb. She chose a site as described in the Skanda Purana which was nothing but where Gyanvapi mosque was built. It is said that she saw a dream to remind her responsibilty to revive Kashi Vishwanath temple and then she came here.
She also built temples in Haridwar, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Kurukshetra, Pushkar, Ayodhya, Jagannath Puri and Mahashwar a few to mention along with hundreds of dharmshalas.
As such today there is nothing else to see in Maheshwar except a few temples, a live fort and Rajwada constructed by the queen in mid 18th century. The city is very small and there are average hotels as both religious, history lovers and foreigners visit this city. The facilities and transport is not really awesome as even auto we have to book through hotel sometimes in off-season time. Few good restaurants are there only around bus stand. Still this is one of few cities of Maharashtra where lot of film shootings take place throughout the year.
How to reach
Barwah is nearest railway station but there is no direct connection from Indore or Khandwa. Nearest major railway and bus stations are Indore (81 KM), Khandwa (85), Omkareshwar (58 KM) and Mhow (66 KM). Buses and taxies are available easily from these places. Nearest airport is Indore.
How much time needed to visit
One full day
Where to stay
There are many hotels. We stayed in Krishna Palace at walking distance from Ahilya fort (also called Maheshwar fort) at Rs.900 per day. The good restaurants are only in area of Bus stand 3 KM from Ahilya fort. There are many other hotels also around fort for stay.
There are a few very interesting legend stories associated with Maheshwar pilgrimage. I am consolidating all of them in simple words to understand.
Legend 1- As per Andhra Mahabharata epic (11th-14th century) Mahismati (new name Maheshwar) was a distinct Haihaya kingdom ruled by Chandravanshi (Yadava) king. It was ruled by Kartavirya Arjuna (Shree Shastrarjun – with 1000 arms). He is mentioned in Mahabharata and Ramayana both and it is said he had imprisoned king Ravana in his home till his release.
There is an interesting story that Kartavirya Arjuna had 500 wives who went for bath in picnic near Narmada. Narmada was in full flow and so to make spece king stopped Narmada water with his 1000 arms and make way for picnic. Ravana was passing by and seeing a dry land he installed a Shiva linga to pray Lord Shiva.
But after the bath was over, king Kartavirya Arjuna released water which carried away Shiva Linga in its flow. Ravana was angry and located Kartavirya Arjuna and fought with him. Kartavirya Arjuna imprisoned him.
When I saw this temple in Maheshwar near Ahilyabai Ghat, I was wondering why these lamps (as claimed by locals) are lighted. I explored it on internet and found
” the Sahasrarjun temple at Maheshwar lights 11 lamps in honour of Lord Agni blessing the Kingdom. Alternatively, this tradition is attributed to Sahasrarjun queens humiliating captive ten-headed Ravana by lighting up candles on his foreheads.” – Wikipedia- Maheshwar
Legend 2- Jamadagni rishi (one of the Sapt Rishis), Renuka Devi and Lord Parashurama with whom Kartavirya Arjuna’s story is closely associated lived nearby. Note that Renuka is known as Goddess Yellama worshipped prevalently in South India. She is mother of Parushrama.
Legend 3- As per legend king Nila also ruled in Mahismati. He had a daughter whom Dev Agni used to court for long time in form of Brahmin. One day it was discovered by king and he wanted to punish brahmin. After realizing that brahmin was Dev Agni, he begged his pardon and Agni blessed him that his kingdom will be invincible and will be protected by him.
On later date after the Mahabharata was over, as part of Ashva Medh yajna, Sahdev (one of the Pandava brothers) successfully worshipped Agni Dev and was allowed to win over Mahismati.
Legend 4- Before this episode of Agni, there was a tradition in Mahismati that the exogamy marriages were ILLEGAL. But Agni ordered to break this tradition and exogamy was allowed and even women could marry more than one man and allowed to move freely.
Now let us move from legendary Mahismati to late medieval period of Maheshwar which is visible to eyes of visitors. It is not very old but just about 250 years old history.
What Maheshwar we see today is creation of Ahilyabai. She had hired two architect brothers to design the fort and Rajwada.
Rajwada was built in 1766. Ahilyabai lived and ruled from this wada for nearly three decades till her death in 1795 AD. It is large simple hose having some fine wood carvings.
Here is her private puja room which contains valuable idols of gold and silver. A part of this hotel is now converted in heritage hotel. She lived in first floor and administration office was ground floor.
Ahilyabai parents belonged to a wealthy Shinde family of Chaundi village in Distt. Ahmednagar. One day Malhar Rao Holkar on way to Pune stopped at Chaundi village where he saw an eight year old girl performing temple service. He was impressed by piety, married his son Khande Rao Holker to her in 1733.
Rani Ahilyabai’s husband fought 10 battles. After his death in battle in 1754, Rani Ahilyabai wished to commit ‘sati’ when she was stopped by her father in law Malhar Rao Holkar (founder of Peshwa Holkar dynasty of Indore). Her son Male Rao Holkar also died after one year rule. After that father-in-law of Ahilyabai requested her to take the reign of Indore. She ruled for 30 years and died in 1795 after a brief illness at age of 70.
After all these travesty Ahilyabai came up as a great pioneer to save Hindu Sanatan dharma and became one of the greatest and immortal rulers. She is remembered for building and renovating many temples across North of India such as Kashi Vishwanath temple which was once demolished by Aurangzeb, Somnath temple and Vishnupad temple in Gaya.
Today we see that Parikramavasis pilgrims come to have darshan of her town and gaddi in Rajwada.
“Ahilyabai’s extraordinary ability won her the regard of her subjects and of the other Maratha confederates, including Nana Phadnavis. With the natives of Malwa … her name is sainted and she has styled an avatar or Incarnation of the Divinity.” – John Malcolm, A Memoir of Central India.
Ahilyabai built many temples and ghats in Northern India. We can see that temples in Maheshwar are a great attraction today among visitors.
On easy flight of stairs we can see many beautiful temples built by Ahilyabai.
Exotic and one of the most beautiful Ahilyabai ghat is on bank of Narmada inside Ahilyabai fort. I observed that this is a living fort and it seems these families are living here since centuries.
As this city was developed by Ahilyabai, we can find here the temples and fort built by her.
Maheshwari sarees are legacies of Rani Ahlyabai. There was decline in this art but now it is revived by Rehwa society since 1980.
There is a big statue installed by some Richard Holkar in the premises of Rajwada. I was curious about the him and explored more into hierarchy of Holkars.
Film shootings
It is one of the favourite site of shooting of Bollywood and South films.
Ashoka, Mahashivratri (1960), A R Rehman’s music video, movie Alaipayuthey song, Tamil movie Leelai song, Tamil movie Arrambam song, Aadi Shankaryachary, Yamala Pagla Deewana, Radha Nachegi, Bajirao Mastani, Neerja and Gautamiputra Satakarni, Pad Man, Dabang 3 and Kalank etc.
Epilogue
Overall it is a very small town which can be covered in a day. Parikrama pilgrims of Omkareshwar mandatorily come here just to have darshan of great Maratha queen, her fort and Rajwada. This is a favorite film shooting venue of Bollywood and South India films.
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