Is Madurai, the Athens of East? This is not hyperbole. The city is as old as Athens and proved by recent excavations corroborating a developed 600 BC civilization underneath. The city overwhelms with many water bodies, ancient temples, caves and two millennium old inscriptions. Today city pans out in modernity but still antiquity sits on it.
In two days I saw few gems of places of Madurai, having said that I still need three more days to see the caves, hills, temples and bio diversity parks around Madurai.The city is mentioned in Sangam literature older than 2,500 years. The third Tamil Sangam conglomeration under Pandya king was held here in 3rd century AD. Sitting on bank of river Vaigai, the excavations of Keeladi corroborate that it was a developed civilization even 2600 years ago.
Location
Located in Tamil Nadu state of India in Southern region.
How to reach Madurai
Madurai is nearest airport. Nearest railway station is Madurai. All major cities are connected to Madurai by rail, air and road.
Our Itinerary
Bengaluru – Rameswaram – Madurai-Kanyakumari-Bengaluru – Leisurely 6 N and 7 D
If we do not have time, we can cover these places in 4N, 5 D also.
We spent leisurely 2 nights in Madurai. If we want to see a few more temples, archaeological site in Madurai we need to stay 3 more days.
Where to stay in Madurai
I suggest to book Tamil Nadu state government owned Hotel Tamil Nadu which is mid range and can be easily booked online on TTDC hotel booking link. There are two state government hotels in Madurai. Hotel Tamil Nadu Madurai Unit 1, located just a stone’s throw away from the famous Meenakshi Amman Temple. Hotel Tamil Nadu – Madurai II is also in city. The room rent is from 1400- 3500 per day. Breakfast is complimentary. I personally always prefer to stay in state govt run hotels. But since my booking was in Sterling holiday group hotel I stayed in Sterling V Grand hotel. The room rent is here Rs. 5500 and the lunch and service is very good.
What to see in Madurai and time needed
We checked in hotel at 12 noon so we utilized this half day in visiting Meenakshi temple. It needs half day as there is much crowd and we need to stand in queue.
Day 2 we had planned to visit Kallalagar Temple, Keeladi Archaeological site and Museum, Marriamman Teppakulam, Thirumali Nayaka Palace, Thiruparan Kundaram Temple by taxi. There are many ancient sites, caves, inscriptions and biodiversity park around Madurai. To see those you need about 4-5 days more.
Legend about Meenakshi temple and Madurai city
Indra, king of Deva (semi Gods) was once engaged in battle with an Asur (Demon) Virudhan who fled from the battle field and hid himself in a hilltop. Indra followed him and killed him while he was doing penance. This violated the rules of battle and this mortal sin sat on his conscience. Finding no peace of mind in his own kingdom he came down on earth. He took bath in many rivers and tried all means but he could not get rid of the sin. One day when he was passing by Kadamba forest he suddenly felt that he was cleansed of his sin. He sent his men to see what was that which cleansed him of his sin. Devas found a Shiva Linga beside a lake and beneath a Kadamba tree. Convinced that it was Shiva himself who cleaned him, Indra paid homage to the lingam and established Vimanam over it. This is believed to be the same Linga that is enshrined in the Great Temple of Madurai.
In those days the capital of Pandyas was Manavoor (Current village name identified as Manalur), 12 KM from Madurai. A merchant Dhananjay came across this Vimanam built by Indra Dev over the Shiva Linga and looking for shelter he slept in this Vimanam. When he woke, he saw some offerings of flowers.
Concluding that it was Devas who came to pay homage to Shivalinga, he informed Pandya king Kulshekharan. The king went to the place and offered homage. Same day the king saw the dream that Lord Shiva appeared in and directed him to build a temple and city around the place for the welfare of people. This was the origin of the Great temple of Madurai and city of Madurai.
Day 1
As per itinerary we started from Rameswaram by government AC bus (2 hours 30 minutes) to reach Madurai at 11.30 AM. We checked it at our hotel Sterling V Grand at 12 noon. We got fresh and had some rest. At 4 PM we planned to visit Meenakshi temple. Autos are costly and they don’t charge by meter. The temple timings are 4 AM-1PM and 4 PM- 9 PM. We kept our slippers and mobile at security counters and moved in the queue. There was a moderate crowd today and it took about 2 hours to complete the holy darshana of Goddess Meenakshi. Photography is strictly prohibited and as said we have to deposit our big purse and mobiles too at the entry counter itself.
Day 2
We had planned to visit Kallalagar Temple in Algar Kovil village, Keeladi Archaeological site and Museum, Marriamman Teppakulam, Thirumali Nayaka Palace, Thiruparan Kundaram Temple by taxi. We had booked “Red Taxi” service and it operates like Ola and metering is automatic by hours and KM. For whole day 2 journey 6.5 hours and 89 KM the charge was Rs.1825. It is quite reasonable and without any haggling. Ola and Fasttrack does not seem to be friendly.
Kallalagar (Kallazhagar) Temple
The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi.
Local people call it by the village name Algar Kovil. But actually its name is Kallalagar Temple, a Vishnu temple. This village was in glory during 6th-7th century due to Alvars saints and poets who espoused with Lord Vishnu Bhakti. Traditionally, the Alvars are considered to have lived between 4200 BCE and 2700 BCE. As a part of the legacy of the Alvars, five Vaishnavite philosophical traditions (sampradayas) developed over a period of time. Kallalagar Temple covers an area of about 2 acres and has a five-tiered gopuram (gateway tower). The temple is enclosed in a rectangular enclosure with huge granite walls. This must be one of the most prominent temples of Madurai.
Keeladi Archaeological site and Museum
Being just 12 KM away, Keeladi is local to Madurai. It is a pleasant and green village not yet so touched by urban light. The car stopped in front of the museum. The entry fee is Rs.15 and online payment is accepted. This is one of the great museums I saw. Very beautifully designed building, spacious and well lighted modern rooms which add to the galore and decorum of the rare artefacts. I can not explain how much bliss, contentment, pride and euphoria I passed through when I saw ancient artefacts so near in front of my eyes. There are several rooms to see. I took many photos when an attendant informed me
that the video is about to start. The video is very well designed and understandable by a layman. Just about 2 Km away is the excavation site of Keeladi. It is famous for the ancient artefacts like Arretine (bright red polished pottery), rouletted ware, foreign potteries, Roman coins and 5th century BC Ganges valley coins.
Marriamman Teppakulam
Built in 1645 AD during the rule of Thirumalai Nayak. It is located only 2 km from the famous Meenakshi Temple. Considered as one of the largest temple tanks not only in Tamil Nadu but in South India, this temple tanks receives its water from the River Vaigai. The water was low, so we could not go for boating. There is a legend behind Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam. According to the
legend, to build Thirumalai Nayaka Palace sand was dug out of this tank to get the soil for brickmaking. Owing to this the palace is also considered to be a blessed one. During the digging process, an idol of Lord Ganesh was unearthed. The same idol has been enshrined in Meenakshi temple. This area was later turned into Teppakulam, which is connected to River Vaigai through underground channels.
Thirumali Nayaka Palace
Thirumalai Nayak Palace is a 17th-century palace erected in 1636 AD by King Thirumalai Nayak, a king of Madurai’s Nayaka dynasty who ruled Madurai from 1623–59 AD, in the city of Madurai. This Palace is a classic fusion of Dravidian and Rajput styles. The building, which can be seen today, was the main Palace,
in which the king lived. The original Palace Complex was four times bigger than the present structure. In its heyday, Tirumalai Nayak Palace at Madurai was considered to be one of the wonders of the South. This palace is situated 2 km south east of the Meenakshi Amman Temple.
Thiruparan Kundaram Temple
Located at 8 KM from Madurai. This temple is dedicated to Lord Murgan (Other name Kartikeyan) who is son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. It is regarded as one of the “First House of Murugan”. The temple uses rock-cut architecture and is believed to have been built by the Pandyas during the 6th century.
In the main shrine, apart from Murugan, the deities Shiva, Vishnu, Vinayaka (Ganesha) and Durga are housed. The temple follows Shaiva tradition of worship. Inscriptional evidence in the temple points to a history as a Jain cave. Historically, Murugan temple existed much before the 6th century, and was converted into a Jain shrine by Jain monks under the aegis of a Pandya king. The temple was later converted into a Hindu temple under the tutelage of Gajapathy, the minister of a later Pandya King.
Epilogue
I had covered the above places in Madurai in 1.5 full days. But there are some more temples in vicinity of Madurai city. We need 2-3 more day the remaining places. We plan to visit these in our next trip to Madurai. These places are (distance from Meenakshi temple).
Koodal Azhagar Temple – 1 KM, dedicated to Vishnu and Lakshmi
Gandhi Museum – 2 KM. Earlier Palace of Rani Mangammal
Yanaimalai – 43 KM, Jain sculptures, a Shaivite temple, and a Vaishnavite
Keelavalavu- 43 KM. Ancient Jain sculptures and stone bed
Arittapatti – 30 KM. Biodiversity Heritage Site, rock-cut temples that are 2,200 years old, several Tamil-Brahmi
Samanar Hills – 11 KM. Hill. Jain and Hindu monuments, inscriptions
Alagarmalai – 21 KM. Caves and inscriptions
Kongar Puliyankulam -17 KM. Big natural cave, more than 50 stone beds are carved.
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