Four Days in Cambodia – Part 2 of 3

In continuation of Four Days In Cambodia Part 1 Of 3 we go ahead today in Cambodia for seeing more temples in Angkor city after seeing Angkor Wat and Cambodian traditional Apsara Dance. We will see today Angkor Thom, Bayon temple, Banteay Srie temple and take balloon ride.

Before we see this temple we need to take a look again at history of temples of Cambodia. As we know Jayrvarman II was imprisoned under Sailendra dynasty of Java and after his release he founded Khmer dynasty in Rolus (Hariharalaya) 10 KM from Siem Reap in 802 AD. Hariharalaya means half Shiv and half Vishnu. His nephew Indravarman I built three temples Bakong, Preah Ko (Nandi bull) and Lolei temple in Rolus which are today a tourist attraction. I did not go to Rolus as one more day is required to cover that.

Yasovarman I (889–910 AD), also called Leper king moved the capital from Hariharalaya (Rolus) to Angkor (Yashodharapura). Angkor remained Khmer capital for next 600 years. Later king Suryavarman II built famous Angkor Wat Vishnu temple in 1113 AD. Rajendravarman II constructed Banteay Srei in 944 AD, a Shiva temple and Jayavarman VII built Angkor Thom complex in 1177 AD in Angkor. So Angkor region has two major complexes- Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.

After the Cham people of modern-day Vietnam sacked Angkor in 1177, King Jayavarman VII felt that Hindu Gods betrayed him, decided to build a new capital nearby, Angkor Thom (9 Sq. KM area) surrounded by wall of length 3 KM. Complex was dedicated to Buddha. Angkor Wat also became a Buddhist shrine, and many of its carvings and statues of Hindu deities were replaced by Buddhist art.

So today knowing the history of Angkor Thom and Banteay Srei above in brief we start our visit.

What is Angkor Thom

This meaning is ‘Great City. It has a large group of temples, moats and gates inside it. Important one I have highlighted. Angkor Thom was abandoned sometime prior to 1609, when an early western visitor wrote of an uninhabited city as fantastic “as the Atlantis of Plato”. Atlantis is a fictional city in a Plato’s work. It is believed to have sustained a population of 80,000–150,000 people.

Angkor Thom is about 3 KM from Angkor Wat. The bus stops at South gate of Angkor Thom. Usually the tourists enter through South gate as it has all bridge (row of sculptures) and moat. This is a very famous and one of the most popular photo stop point of Cambodia. The South gate is flanked by statues of gods and demons, representing the eternal struggle between good and evil and is called bridge because there is a moat just beside it.

East, West and North gates are quite in dilapidated state and normally not visited by people but they are same in architecture and in look.

As usual, we do not have so much time and resource to see all temples inside Angkor Thom we just visited Bayon temple, Terrace of the Elephants, Terrace of the Leper King, South Gate, South Gate bridge and South Gate moat.

Elephant terrace depicts the procession of Jayavarman VII and it is fronted on parade ground in front of king’s royal palace. Unfortunately royal palace is in complete ruins.

Along with Elephant’s terrace Jayavarman also restored the surrounding of royal palace by terrace of leper king. Archaeologists say that the actually it is not statue of leper king, but it represents Yama, the God of Death as this site was probably cremation site of royal family. He also built a big pond here with an island temple called Neak Pean. In pond the pilgrims used to take holy bath (Srah Srang).

After this we got into bus and might have travelled about 2 KM to reach South gate of Bayon temple.

Most of the great Angkor Thom ruins have vast displays of bas-relief depicting the various gods, goddesses, animals and other-worldly beings from the mythological stories and epic poems of ancient Hinduism.

Bayon temple

Bayon temple built by Jayavarman VII is at very center of Angkor Thom. The focus of worship was a big statue of Mahayana Buddha (Jaya Buddha Mahanatha), although there exist a gamut of Hindu deities in multiple galleries and shrines. In itself Bayon temple is built for Buddha seated under the Naga names “Jaya Buddha Mahanatha” reflecting name of its builder Jayvarman VII. This statue is now shifted to Victory gate in Angkor Thom premises.

After reign of Jayavarman VII, Hinduism returned to be first religion of nation, the Bayon temple as well as other Mahayan temples were converted to Hindu. That is the reason why “Jaya Buddha Mahanatha” was thrown in well in 14 meters deep well of central tower. In 1933 this statue pieces were discovered by French. They assembled it and installed in temple “Vihea Bram Pi Lveang” in Angkor Thom city itself.

The Bayon temple has a multitude of symbolic functions. when considered in relations to walled city of Angkor Thom. It is the pivotal mountain that serves as in the “churning of the sea milk” around which is coiled the serpent Vasuki. This is the rope that the Gods and demons use for rotation as demonstrated in each of five gates. It is said that in this way city of Yeshodhara was reborn, splendid as then immortal city, after 4 years of occupation by Cham (1177- 1181).

The monument is remarkable in many characters. The 54 towers surmounted by faces have earned the term “enigmatic” that have resulted in many debates and also are characters in many poems. As per archaeologists this face is of Avlokiteshwara, the Buddha of compassion and mercy that looks in all four directions in this temple as well as in all Angkor gates. Some say it is representation of king Jayavarman VII itself in meditation.

When I had not visited Cambodia- the thought of Cambodia used to flash only this image of 4 faced structure scattered all over Angkor Thom. This is how cultural heritage reflects the country image. Even today when we roam in Cambodia we find cultured, soft spoken and smiling people whether a hotel employee or shopkeeper. The people in Vietnam I found slightly rude and rough.

What most visitors remember about Bayon is the four faces of Avalokiteshwara and extensive and detailed bas-reliefs realistically depicting not only battle with Chams but also daily life of people that time. Some famous bas reliefs are – foot-soldiers, shop owners with Khmer women as wives, cooking fish, women suffering from sickness- these varied scenes portray the daily life of the Khmer that period.

The bas-relief-1 is divided in 2 parts. On right side, a group of people is seen presenting offerings to Mount Kailash on occasion of Shiva’s wedding with Parvati. On left side we can see three boats decorated with dragon on the sails. Each boat is covered with number of ceremonial flags with about 10 people on board and two oarsmen, one adorned with hull. Main characters can be distinguished with their clothes, masks and hand-adorned with jewelry, holding the trident, are probably brahmins of high rank. Be it for daily life or warfare, boat was a very important vehicle during Angkorian era. – Text narration displayed at temple.

The bas-relief-2 – depicts mainly religious and mythological scenes. The one on the left presents a Buddhist ceremony held in royal palace and where we see the king, queen and the monks, as well as important officials. The one on right is telling the story of “Ravana shaking Mount Kailash” and depicts a group of ministers intending to fly over mount, the abode of Lord Shiva and Parvati, towards Lanka (Giant City). Shiva’s power does not allow one to flyover mount, which angers the giant his way. The mount began to shake, the birds, the apsaras began to tremble and even Uma ran to her husband’s lap. Shiva sitting on mount understood the incident and gently pushes his toe on the ground, making mount press on the monster that was not able to move. The giant realized Shiv’s power, apologized and praised him for a thousands years. Shiva released him to return to Lanka. From then on Tosakan giant had a second name, known as Ravana. – Text narration displayed at temple.

As per inscriptions found in this temple, it was a secular temple in its time. Western part was dedicated to Vishnu, Northern to Shiva, Southern to Buddha and East side to Royal Pantheon.

Next we move to Banteay Srei which is about 25 KM from Angkor Thom.

Banteay Srei temple

This temple was discovered in 1914 and several bas-reliefs and idols were looted in 1923 and even before discovery. It is 28 KM from Bayon temple of Angkor Thom.
This is a Shivaite temple. Many modern visitors to Cambodia consider Banteay Srei (“Citadel of Women”) as highest achievement in art and architecture of the Classic Angkor civilization. This is a small temple and is about 23 KM from Phnom Kulen mountains from where the red sandstones were mined for Angkor. Also nearby was laterite available.
It is surprising that in 1923 this temple was target of looting by famous French author and intellectual Andre Malraux who was later punished by French government.

As we approach the big campus of temple our combo tickets are checked which we had purchased during Angkor Wat visit for $62. This ticket is valid for 10days and you need to keep it safe with you or have its photo on phone. This is pass for many temples to visit.

We have to walk about 1 Km to reach the temple cause way. On both way see certain shrines which are not bereft of its idols and now only structures are visible

Banteay Srei was commissioned by a Brahmin guru Yajnavarah, grandson of Harshvarman I. No doubt this guru must be having immense knowledge and taste. Although it was funded privately, king Rajendravarman (944-968) and his successor Jayavarman V (968-1000) are mentioned in inscriptions in the temple. King had awarded founder Yajnavarah land and he built three Shivaite temples including this temple.

There are about 20 shrines in this complex but almost all idols installed are looted. There are some restoration works in progress with help of Swiss government and APSARA of Cambodia. We can see that every inch of temple is extravagant, splashy and looks like a gilded jewelry.

The gate on right side above shows Shiva being showered by elephants. Some parts which are not carved must be part of restoration work.

The main shrines can be seen from distance here. These belong to Parvati and Shiva. On right side above is library. Though it is still not sure of exact usage of library but as per guide these were used for keeping records.

Khmer adopted cult of God Vishnu and Shiva and some rituals with which kings identify themselves.
Use of some words of Sanskrit in Khmer language, Architectural tradition of Hindu temples of sanctum, galleries, ponds, brick and stone usage, cremation for at least upper stratum of society, rectilinear towns and city plans, Artificial water reservoirs, canals were some other traits adopted by Khmers. Banteay Srie is one of the most opulent display of that adoption.

The above two bas-relief on gate of shrines are exotic display of 1000 year old art of Khmer civilization. The left above shows the Vaali and Sugriva fighting and Lord Rama is shown with bow and arrow. On right side is Mahisasur mardan episode.

The above images are opulent and splashy reliefs on sand stone. The Khmer was Indianized under influence of commercial relations during Kushan and Gupta empires.

It was raining that day and all visitors were provided umbrellas. Seeing the temple in light drizzling, drenched baroque walls, green grass on the causeway and waking on wood laid was an awesome experience. In the end of temple we both followed a jungle route and had a feeling of being lost in jungle. But somehow we met our group.

Epilogue

After visit of Angkor Wat, visit of Angkor Thom temples and Banteay Srei need about full day how so ever quickly you want to cover. Todays visit was the introduction of great Khmer art and culture show with respect to Lord Shiva and Buddha idols, carved images co-sitting, Hindu mythological stories carved in bas-reliefs, maintaining sacred ponds etc. Even today we see that Cambodians worship Vishnu, Shiva on special occasions even though they are Buddhist.

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