Dholavira- Our History Starts Here Part-1

I am so much thrilled that I am standing at the place where History of India starts as before this it was anthropology, an unknown world, unknown people.

It is important to note that our Archaeologist R.S. Bisht who was in charge of the excavation of Dholavira site has divided Indus valley civilization stages in 7 stages from 2650 BC to 1450 BC. This civilization was very advanced in early stages but with lot of floods and other natural calamities the civilization faded and was abandoned in 1450 BC.

Dholavira is special in the sense that it is one of grandest cities of Indus valley and seen all 7 stages. Comapred to it Lothal was advanced in pre-harrapan period but saw the same fate as Dholavira.

April 3, 2019 was a historical day in my life as I landed in Dholavira, a 6000 years old ancient village which was one of the six most important cities of Indus valley civilization. Feeling so much PROUD to be at Dholavira. Added proud was that one of the persons who was a member of excavation team from 1998-2008 was with me. It is a great feeling here that India’s history started from here and before this was anthropology as per my notion.

My Journey experiences

Journey to Dholavira was interesting. I was travelling in local buses after several years and that too in Summer of North India. Before I started I called ” Rann Resort”. They told me that better to come by taxi from Ahmadabad. Or if coming by train then take a bus from Ahmadabad and get down at Samkhayali by 4.30 AM train and then come to Rapar to chnage bus. Or as third option take Red bus service from Ahmadabad and get down at Rapar, another bus from Rapar to Dholavira. After a lot of investigation I decided to follow 3rd option of going to Rapar by bus and then change bus to reach Dholavira.

So here starts my bus journey to Dholavira by bus. Needless to say it was hot summer of north and I came to GSRTC Geeta Mandir bus stand, Ahmadabad. The bus started at 8.50 PM. I had already made the online reservation so was no issue. The bus was getting stuffed with sack of fertilizers, domestic purchases etc which nearby village people purchase from city and take to their home. There are no AC bus or Volvo bus service from Ahmadabad to villages or small cities in Gujarat. I was sweating but my curiosity of visiting Dholavira was overcoming my frustrations. The person sitting by side of me was a labor who worked for company who install Gobar Gas plants in remote villages of Gujarat. He was forcing me to see installations photos in his mobile which he did at various places. He also showed me all his knowledge about politics. Somehow I think at 1 AM he got sleep and I felt relieved. At 4 AM the bus reached it destination Rapar. I saw that bus stand was very small and as soon as bus stopped all passengers disappeared as all were locals. I was alone and felt some fear. The market was completely shutdown except one or two tea shops. Tea shop guy told me that private bus to Dholavira will come at 9.30 AM. So it was tension to me that I have to wait here for almost 5 hours at this remote town. Anyway I took a tea (6 tea spoons cost Rs.10) and started walking here and there though some fear of being alone in this dark was still mounting.

At 8.30 a few shops opened and they told a private luxurious bus will come at 9.30 AM. There was one ATM there and withdrew some money from ATM. At 9.30 the private bus came and that was hopeless and khatara 20 seater. The seats were horrible. I hurriedly captured a seat and after some time I found that this seat was secreted by someone’s vomit. My trousers spoiled when I tried to capture the seat. But there was no other alternative as bus frequency to Dholavira is very less and second bus schedule was not sure. After that the only bus of the day was at 5.30 PM.

At this time there is half crowd and so I could take foto. I was squeezed in the bus.

Anyway these experiences are part of interesting travel which I will remember all my life. I particularly do not like to travel in taxi, packed as a luggage. I prefer to travel like a local man at new places to know the daily life and feelings, dialect of locals.

I reached Dholavira at 12.15 PM after 2 hrs 40 minutes journey. The guide whom I had arranged from Bangalore ran towards me as soon as I got down from bus. Since my bus had missed the resort on way which I had booked online, I asked guide Jaimal to show me some proper stay place. He took me to a home stay. I was not convinced with the amenity and finally moved to “Rann Resort, Dholavira”. The resort was very very beautiful, restaurant looked good and i took AC room# C-2.

Ran Resort Dholavira- beautiful, calm, just half KM from Harappan site. Off season so no tourist here. I was like a king of this place.

About Dholavira site

After lunch I took some rest in AC and then could not resist myself to go to excavation site. I tried to call guide Jaimal but there is only Vodafone network. So my mobile was just a box. I alone walked towards Dholavira excavation site witch is just 0.8 KM from my resort. I reached at 3.30 PM. Saw the rich museum which was completely themed on Dholavira- Harrapan settlement. Took photograph. Outside I met another old guide “Rama Bhai” and he told he and Jaimal were involved in excavation team from 1998-2008. I was happy to get such guide. During all interactions with him he looked me straight forward and honest about his knowledge. We took water bottle and started towards the Harappan site.

We started with a big reservoirs which is just in front of Citadel.

There are 17 such reservoirs around this 250 acre city of Dholavira. There is a swimming pool also.

This is probably the first of reservoirs in ancient world.

The reservoirs are lined with baked bricks. This collected either rain water or the water from 2 naalahs flowing nearby.

We enter from South side of city and see Citadel. Citadel was a kind of fort which was protected with 28 meters wide wall (what was need of such wide wall?), stadium, some game arena, towers and well.

Citadel was a kind of small fort where could be that head of city lived. This is on South side. West side of it is Bailey ( armed warriors rooms). The whole for was fortified by North , East and west gates.

City fortification walls which also sorround middle town. Middle town was the residences where skilled labors, respected residents lived.

South side gate. Where we entered the citadel

The guide was not able to tell much about this. He said it could be some game kind of thing indie the citadel

Wide passages iside fort and in the middle and lower town

This also could be a game type of thing. THis is inside citadel.

Bailey as saod is on west side of citadel and seems adjacent. This was used as residences of warriors and fort guards.

There is a well inside the Bailey. Here could be that water was stored after doing all purification processes from the reservoirs.

This is when we are looking down from North gate. WE can see far the “Lower Town” of this civilizatiion site.

Undeciphered sign board. THis is probably the forst sign board of its time.

In middle of Citadel and lower town is middle town.

Middle town which is adjacent to Citadel

May be for cleaning the drainage facility the steps are constructed

As said Lower town was meant for houses for labors. This is about half a kilometer from middle town.

Lower town as seen from North gate of citadel

Notice the drainage system in lower town

Epilogue

I am extremely thrilled to be at this historical place for two days. Staying alone in very big resort and that too just half a KM from excavated site is memorable. I bow to my forefathers of India. It is not that only this civilization existed in this reason, I am sure there will be some more in Eastern or Southern side. But as on today we know only this much.