“Black Taj hai ye Shaab, Black Taj”. The guide’s words resonated with me as I stood at the ticket counter of Bibi ka Maqbara. He was a slender, dark-complexioned Muslim man who had dedicated 40 years to guiding visitors at this site. He asked me to also take his ticket. I hold a deep respect for the guides, as they are fortunate to dedicate their lives to the presence of such wonders that attract visitors from thousands of kilometers. I am documenting this experience three months later, and regrettably, I cannot recall his name.
Prior to his commencement, the Taj Mahal of Agra came to mind, and I felt as though I was witnessing a replica of the Taj. It resembled the original but appeared diminished, as Aurangzeb was reluctant to invest in architectural projects and had designated a limited budget of Rs. 700,000. It is important to note that Aurangzeb was still a prince at that time, which allows one to appreciate the immense wealth of the Mughal Empire during Shah Jahan’s reign.
The guide informed us that the burial site of Rabia-ud-Daurani, whose actual name was Dilras Banu Begum and who hailed from Iranian descent, is located here. She passed away from a persistent fever following the birth of her son. Rabia-ud-Daurani was the first wife and principal consort of Aurangzeb. Following her death, Aurangzeb fell into deep depression, and their son, Azam Shah, experienced a nervous breakdown.
The guide provided a detailed account of the similarities and differences between the Taj Mahal and its lesser-known counterpart, yet I find it unnecessary to elaborate on those points here. I will simply refer to it as the Black Taj. While the Taj Mahal is renowned for its splendor and fame, this structure embodies tranquility and silence, representing a son’s love for his mother. Constructed two decades earlier, the Taj Mahal is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, whereas this site, despite its comparable beauty, remains largely unrecognized due to its lack of financial backing and subsequent absence of glamour. Interestingly, I find this site more impressive than the Taj Mahal, particularly considering it was built at a cost of Rs. 0.7 million, in stark contrast to the Rs. 32 million spent on the Taj Mahal.
An interesting fact is Taj Mahal and Bibi ka Maqbara belong to mother-in-law (Mumtaj Mahal, wife of Shah Jahan) and daughter-in-law (Rabia-ul-Durrani wife of Aurangzeb). Both died while giving birth. Both were Iranian. Mughals did not like to marry Indian origins. It is constructed by Ata Ullaha, son of the architect who designed Taj Mahal.
Where to stay in Aurangabad
The MTDC hotel is in city and has restaurant and in few acres. Lot of food points are available nearby also if you like. MTDC tourist bus is also available from hotel for Ajanta. From Aurangabad autos are available for Ellora, Daultabad and Aurangzeb tomb. Hotel is OK and in rage of Rs. 2100 to Rs.3000 per day.
Booking link – https://www.mtdc.co/en/stays/mtdc-aurangabad
Bibi ka Maqbara is in Aurangabad. We visited this place on day 2 and it takes about 3 hours. But I suggest to spend some more time here. You will enjoy well maintained gardens and lawns. It is not as crowded as Taj.
There is a huge and beautiful mosque on left side of mausoleum. It was built by Nizams of Hyderabad in 19th century.
Epilogue
This mausoleum was constructed approximately 15 to 20 years after the Taj Mahal. Despite the limited financial resources available to Aurangzeb, it was his son who took the initiative to create this remarkable structure in honor of his mother. The cost of this mausoleum was around Rs. 0.7 million, in stark contrast to the Taj Mahal, which amounted to Rs. 32 million—46 times greater. The atmosphere here differs significantly from that of the Taj Mahal; while the latter is characterized by glamour, vibrancy, and crowds, this site exudes a somber, subdued yet grand and tranquil ambiance. The Taj Mahal serves as a testament to a monarch’s ostentation, whereas this mausoleum reflects a son’s deep affection for his mother. Currently, the Taj Mahal is situated in a bustling area of Agra, while this mausoleum remains distanced from the city, enhancing its beauty. Just 15 kilometers away in Khultabad lie the tombs of Aurangzeb and Azam Shah, resting in an obscure village.
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