And that is history. I don’t know the names or their family or home of these people where I took the Vietnamese tea on the roadside in Vietnam. But I know their forefathers, I know from where they came, I know the travails, travesties, turbulences, uprisings and pride their fathers and forefathers passed through. That is the acquaintance between them and I. I am a stranger to this country but these people are not at all strangers to me.
And that is history. I know their history and from where they originated and their genes passed the turmoil on their faces. They carry the weight of that past with them and perhaps their next generations also will carry the same genes. And that is history.
When we visit a country, see their malls, shops, kiosks, universities and houses. All are the same as my country but the people sitting in these buildings have one thing which is different from our country. And that is their history. I can sense them, feel them and even if I don’t know them, I will remember their faces because I know their imprinted past on their faces. That is their identity. And that is the visit to their country. It fulfills my aim and objectives. To remember them.
Let me have a look into the past of the country to feel the throb, know their proud or injured souls and the weight they carry now. All these knowledge is based on what I could sense and notice from the war museums in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh city. All photographs are from these museums.
Hung Kings of Vietnam
During the period between the 7th and 6th century BC – the first primitive state Van Lang State of Vietnam was established, ruled by Hung Vuong (Hung king).
Since Hung king were the FIRST founders of Vietnam state, Vietnamese next dynasties rever him the first descendants and the father of the Vietnamese, Lac Long Quan and Au Co. A temple known as Hung temple was built in 1465 at the place where his mausoleum believed to exist, in Nghia Linh mountain, 90 KM from today’s Hanoi. This temple is actually a complex of four temples upper, middle, lower and well temples. Once a year whole Vietnamese gather at this place as their national festival to pay deep veneration to their founder king.
Legend recounts that in his search for a site for his court, Hung Vuong I traveled to 99 places but found none to his satisfaction. Upon reaching the this village, the king abruptly stopped and whinnied. The king climbed the highest peak Mount Nghia Linh nearby where he scanned the four directions. It was then that he proclaimed the site as fitting of his capital. This temple is also regarded as “symbol of the eternal soul of the nation”.
The below photo of Hung Temple is taken by me at Vietnam Military History Museum. This must be the original picture before the reconstruction was carried now.
King An Duong Vuong
As soon as the first primitive state Van Lang State was founded by Hung kings, it had to continuously deal with invading forces from North West China. One such Chinese kingdom was Shu kingdom (Sichuan). In 4th century BC Qin Dynasty defeated Shu kingdom and installed Shu king Thuc Phan as Prince who claimed the first state of Vietnam. Thuc Phan claimed the throne, entitled himself as An Duong Vuong and named the state as kingdom of Au Lac (new name of Dai Viet) in 257 BCE choosing the site of Co Loa as his capital. It was in form a fortified city and was a dominant fort in this area.
The mythical story goes that when the fortress was being built, all the work done during the day was mysteriously destroyed at night. The king made a sacrifice to the gods and in one night, a golden turtle appeared to him in a dream and told him the fortress was built on the turtle’s carapace. The king was instructed to build the city in a new location, that of present-day Co Loa. The king did so, and the city was soon erected.
There is an important fortified settlement complex known as Thanh Co Loa Citadel, about 17 KM from Hanoi. It is an archaeological site in plains of Red river. Various relics of bronze Age (about 3rd century BC) Phung Nguyen culture and Dong Son culture have been found in Thanh Co Loa Citadel complex.
It might be the first political center of the Vietnamese civilization. The settlement’s concentric walls resemble a snail’s shell. it had an outer embankment covering 600 hectares.
From 1000 BC -100 AD Dongsonian culture flourished in N. Vietnam region. They cultivated rice, tamed buffalos, pigs and engaged in fishing. They excelled in bronze artefacts such as Dong son drum.
This fort holds a great place in ancient history of Dai Viet for its foundation and mythical status too. Before we go further in history of Dai Viet, let us trace back the history of Thanh Co Loa Citadel.
There is an important fortified settlement complex known as Thanh Co Loa Citadel, about 17 KM from Hanoi’s Dong Anh district. Co Loa literal meaning is ‘ancient spiral’ and is multi-layered structure with concentric ramparts and moats looking like snail. It is an archaeological site in plains of Red river. Various relics of bronze Age (about 3rd century BC) Phung Nguyen culture and Dong Son culture have been found in Thanh Co Loa Citadel complex.
It might be the first political center of the Vietnamese civilization. The settlement’s concentric walls resemble a snail’s shell. It had an outer embankment covering 600 hectares. It is estimated the population of Co Loa possibly ranged from 5,000 to around 10,000 inhabitants.
In 1970, the Vietnamese carried out an investigation at a collapsed portion of the outer wall, uncovering Dong Son culture sherds stratified beneath the wall. A 72 kg bronze drum was later excavated outside the inner wall in the 1980s. The bronze drums were used for war, “the chief summons the warriors of the tribe by beating the drum”, when mourning, and during feasts. In 2004–05, several cultural layers were identified within the inner wall area. Various Co Loa artefacts represented “elite-level or royal characteristics”, discovered only within the site’s enclosures, supporting the notion of centralized production and monopoly.
King An Duong Vuong (Thuc Phan) Temple at Co Loa citadel
Stories of the King An Duong Vuong (Thuc Phan)’s demise vary. Some say he committed suicide by jumping in the ocean. Some say he was borne off to sea by the magic turtle to never be seen again. In some versions, he was told by the magic turtle about his daughter’s betrayal and killed his own daughter before killing himself.
There is another citadel named Hoa Lu Citadel in Ninh Binh Distt. It is now only in vestige.
Located near the town of Ninh Binh, 90 km south of Hanoi, Hoa Lu Ancient Capital is the capital of an ancient Vietnamese Kingdom called Dai Co Viet in the 10th century. This small Kingdom covered an area of only 300 hectares, and reigned from the 10th century, during the Dinh and Le dynasties to the 11th century during the Ly Dynasty. The Kingdom was enclosed by a citadel. The citadel and the Yen Ngua limestone hills provided a good defense for this kingdom against the Chinese.
90 KM from Hanoi. Ruled during Early Le dynasty 980–1009 AD, Ly Dynasty 1009–1225 ADIf in North of Vietnam Dong Song culture flourished, in Central and South Vietnam Sa Huynh culture flourished from 1000BC to 200 AD (Iron Age). They were ancestors of Cham people and Austronesian speaking people. They were skilled in iron artefacts such as axes, swords and sickles. Contrast to Dong Song culture bronze, they used iron artefacts. They also made ornaments of jade stone and glass. Made beads from imported materials. The Sa Huỳnh culture cremated adults and buried them in jars covered with lids, a practice unique to the culture. They were good in trade and were founders of Champa. Surprisingly I did not find any artefacts or photo displays of Champa culture in any of the museums in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh city or in Cambodia.
In meantime Zhao enemy (from China) marched to invade Vietnam. Under leadership of king An Duong, Au Lac people defeated Zhao. But again in attack the Zhao dynasty defeated Au Lac in 179 BC.
Since then the Au Lac was ruled by Chinese and local feudal lords from 179 BC till 938 BC.
During this time there were continuous uprisings by Au Lac people and most notable of them was Hai Ba Trung (40-43 AD), Ba Trieu (248 AD), Ly Bi (542-548 AD), Ly Tu Tien and Dinh Kien (687), Mai Thuc Loan (713-722), Phung Hung(766-791), Duong Thanh (819-20), Khuc Thua Du (905), Duong Dinh Nghe (931). In 938 AD, under the leadership of Ngo Quyen, the Viet people and defeated Han and ended the foreign rule. – an era of independence and freedom of the Vietnamese nation.
History of China-Dai Viet from 938 AD
The two prominent kings whose portray was displayed at the museum was
Period from 6th Century BC to 938 AD
Empire Name – Dai Viet
Period – 939 to 1945 AD
Founder – Ngo Quyen who first time ended 1000 years of Chinese rule
Origin – Han dynasty’s installed local lords ruled in Dai-Viet region and they frequently revolted against Chinese suzerainty.
Prominent kings of Dai Viet– Early Ly 544-602 AD, Era of Chinese domination 602-905 AD, Khuc 905-938 AD and Duong Dinh Nghe 931-937 AD, Ngo Quyen 939-944 AD, Khuk and Duong dynasty, Ngo Quyen 939- 944 AD, Duong Tam Kha 944–950 AD, Ngo dynasty 950–965 AD, Dinh dynasty 968 – 979 AD, Early Le dynasty 980–1009 AD, Ly Dynasty 1009–1225 AD, Tran dynasty 1225–1400 AD (2nd Golden age)– Part of todays Laos, Dai Viet, China, Ho dynasty 1400–1407 AD, Fourth Era of Northern Domination (Ming Dynasty rule) 1407–1427 AD, Later Le Dynasty 1428–1527 AD and 1533–1789 AD (3rd Golden Age) – Part of todays Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, China, Nguyen lords 1558–1802 AD- Part of todays Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, China, Tay Son dynasty 1778–1802 AD- Part of todays Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, China, Nguyen dynasty 1802- 1945 AD- Part of todays Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, China, French Rule in South Vietnam and Cambodia.
Region – As mentioned above. The region varied with time and dynasty rules.
Religion – Confucianism and Buddhism
Fall – None
Monuments –
Imperial Citadel of Thang Long (Hanoi), Thay Pagoda (Hanoi), Bach Ma temple (Hanoi), One Pillar Pagoda (Hanoi), Phat Tich Pagoda (Bac Ninh province), Giam Pagoda (Que Vo, Bac Ninh) , Long Doi Pagoda (Ha Nam province), Pho Minh Pagoda (Nam Dinh province), Binh Son Stupa (Vinh Phuc province), Yen Tu Pagoda (Quang Ninh province), Thai Lac Pagoda (Hung Yen province)- A few to mention.
In Duong Lam ancient village in Son Tay, Hanoi, tourists are recommended to visit the temple and mausoleum of Ngo Quyen, which have been classified by the State a national historical-cultural relic, where the first king of independent Vietnam rests. The temple was built at the top, about 100m away from the mausoleum. In front of the mausoleum there is a large field, laying between the two hillsides. On this ground, legend says that it is where the young Ngo Quyen often with his friends fed buffaloes, and practiced martial arts. This is probably the most beautiful location of Duong Lam hamlet.
The Ngo Quyen Temple was built long ago and has been restored many times. The most recent remodeling was under the reign of Emperor Tu Duc (1848 – 1883).
Dinh Temple worships King Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Temple worships King Le Dai Hanh.
This temple belongs to Early Le kings on 10th Century AD. Hoa Lu is a tourist destinations in Ninh Bình Province. It lies 90 KM from Hanoi.
Hoa Lu was the native land of the first two imperial dynasties of Vietnam- the Dinh founded by Dinh Tien Hoang, and the Early Le founded by Le Dai Hanh. Following the demise of the Le dynasty, in 1010 Ly Cong Uan, the founder of the Ly dynasty, transferred the capital to Thang Long (now Hanoi), and Hoa Lu became known as the “ancient capital.”
Visit to Hanoi is incomplete if we miss temple of Literature. It was founded to spread and worship the Chinese philosopher Confucius.
In 1069, Champa Kingdom (South Vietnam region) gained support from the Song dynasty and stopped paying tribute to Ly dynasty. As the result, the Ly emperor ordered an expedition against Champa and successfully captured King Rudravarman III of Champa. The Champa king had to sign a treaty with Ly king to cede some regions to Ly which massively contributed to the expansion of Ly territory. Champa also had to restore the tributary system to Ly dynasty.
Along with Buddhism, the emperors also participated in other religious ceremonies involving local spirits, gods of Indra and Brahma. Tattoo making was common. Agriculture, justice, education, irrigation reforms were done. Temples were built dedicating to the Trung sisters and the king-of-king Phung Hung (8th century military leader). The Ly had trade relationships with Champa and fought them in two battles in 1044 and 1069.
Trans introduced theatre in court which was considered shameful those days. Although Buddhism was considered the national religion of the Tran dynasty, Confucianist education began to spread across the country. The emperor issued an order to establish the Institute of Imperial Physicians.
Epilogue
Vietnam is not an ordinary country. It is the live example of the series of invasions, unabated unrest, continuous struggle for the identity of independence, unrest and highest degree of agony a country can face. Still they survived. It was an experimental ground to dislodge democracy and communism or vice versa facing the highest amount of bombing on any country since humans invented bombs and explosives. It was reduced to an experimental lab to test the supremacy of one on other.
The shadow still sits on their faces. We can sense it. They are still struggling to come out and forget the agony they passed through.
It takes no less than 10-12 days to visit Vietnam and the tour could be conducted for Hanoi city tour, Halong bay, Hue, Hoi An, Nha Trang, Dalat and Ho Chi Minh city. Few temples and tombs you x=can visit which I have mentioned in this travelogue with history.
Note that the photos of temples shown in this article are what they looked like before renovation. Since these temples are points of paying homage to past glorious kings and generals, now these temples are somewhat modernized to accommodate the huge throng of people on special days.
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