After exploring both India and other countries, I can confidently say that Uttarakhand is like the Switzerland of India. In many places around the world, a hill station might only last for a few kilometers, but in Uttarakhand, you can soak in the breathtaking beauty of nature for hundreds of kilometers. The endless pine trees, silver and green oaks, bruce, cedar, ancient temples, and rivers create a stunning landscape. It’s an experience that words can’t fully capture. Before you set off, make sure to leave behind your office, home, worries, and any negative thoughts, and embark on this journey to Uttarakhand.
If I had a week off, I would choose to spend all seven days here, just soaking it all in—visiting temples, enjoying the serene atmosphere, wandering through lush green forests, strolling along winding roads, tasting bruce flowers, and indulging in Kheem Singh Rautala Baal Mithai. I’d also visit the Swami Vivekananda Math and spend time with some knowledgeable locals.
My top pick would be Almora. It may not have grand temples or be as picturesque as Patal Bhuvneshwar, Kausani, or Nainital, but this hill station has a unique ability to bring peace. Based on my travel experiences, I can say that this place captivated me and left a mark on my heart, even though I was only there for a brief 2 hours during my Kumaun trip in Uttarakhand. When my friend’s car had a battery issue, the local shopkeepers all came together to lend a hand.
Location
Situated in Uttarakhand, India. The easiest way to get to Almora is by flying into Delhi. After that, you can catch several trains that will take you to the final railway stop, Kathgodam. From there, it’s a 90 KM journey. There are plenty of taxis and government buses available.
Where to stay
The big question is where to stay in these places. I personally always prefer to stay in KVMN (Kumaon Vikas Mandal Nigam) guest houses, which can be booked online. Staff is good, though not all KMVNs are maintained so well, but their surroundings and campus are beautiful everywhere. I blindly book state-run hotels everywhere. I recommend it for average and budget hotels.
My 11-Days Itinerary to visit part of Kumaon Hills
History of the Almora Region
Almora was established in 1568 by a ruler from the Chand dynasty. To give you a bit of context about the Chand dynasty, there’s a notable story about Jay Chand, a ruler from the 12th century. His daughter, Sanyogita, who had a crush on Prithviraj Chauhan, was forcibly taken by him during that same century.
The capital of the Chand dynasty was Kannauj, located near Kanpur. They managed to push out the Katyuri kings, who had been in power since the 7th century, from the Katyur valley close to Joshimath. By the 12th century, the Katyuri kingdom was in decline, and the Chand dynasty rose to prominence. However, the descendants and leaders of the Katyuri still held on until the 16th century, establishing their capital in Champawat. Meanwhile, Chand ruler Kalyan Chand moved his capital to what is now Almora, originally known as Alam Nagar, and later Rajapur. Even today, some copper plates have been discovered with these names. Essentially, the Chand rulers were under the control of the Delhi Sultanate, along with various local rulers and chieftains. There were constant conflicts between Garhwal and Kumaon. Baz Bahadur (1638–78) was one of the most influential kings of the Chand Dynasty. He constructed the Golu Devta temple at Bhowali Ghorakhal in Nainital district to honor Lord Golu, a brave warrior. He also built the Bhimeshwara Mahadev Temple at Bhimtal. The hill station of Binsar, located 30 km from Almora, served as a summer getaway for the Chand kings.
Chital Temple
It is a small place though District and I visited only one temple called Chitai Temple.
I noticed a married couple here who came to seek blessings from the well-known local deity, “Golu Devta.” In Kumaon, there are three famous Golu Devta temples: the first one is in Champawat, the second is this one in Chitai, Almora, and the third is located in Bhowali-Ghorakhal.
The local priest mentioned that people from all across India visit these temples to pray to Golu Devta for justice, and once their wishes are granted, they hang a bell in the temple. This temple has thousands of bells hanging around.
I feel really lucky to have visited two Golu Devta temples on this trip—one in Almora and the other in Bhowali, Nainital.
According to Wikipedia and what the locals told me, Golu Devta is believed to be an incarnation of Lord Shiva, serving as a bringer of justice. Historically, he is regarded as the brave son and general of the Katyuri king, Jhal Rai. However, there are many different tales about Lord Golu. In some versions, it is said that he served as a general in the army of Chand king Baz Bahadur, and after his passing, Baj Bahadur built the Golu Devta temple in Ghorakhal, Bhowali, District Nainital as well.
Story of Golu Devta as per locals
The local pandit shared the tale of Golu Devta, where the Katyuri king had seven wives but was still without a child. One day, while hunting, he encountered a woman named Kalika Rani, who is believed to be linked to the goddess, and he took her back to his palace.
She soon became pregnant, which made the other seven queens envious. During the birth, they swapped the baby with a stone and tossed the real child into a river. Fortunately, a fisherman later rescued the child, who came to be known as Golu. As he grew up, Golu asked the fisherman for a horse to travel to Champawat.
In jest, the fisherman gave him a wooden horse. However, since Golu was an incarnation of God, he was able to ride the wooden horse and make it to Champawat. When he arrived at a pond to let his wooden horse drink, the Katyuri king Jhal Rai and his seven queens were bathing nearby and started laughing at him. Golu then pointed out that if a Katyuri king’s wife could give birth to a stone, then surely a wooden horse could drink water. This incident quickly spread throughout Champawat, prompting the king to summon the child.
Finally justice was given to Queen and Golu. So Golu Devta is called the god of justice, and all his idols in the temple show him with a horse behind him.
Lakhudiyar
Further going ahead 18 KM from Almora on the Jageshwar route, I passed through the village of Barechhina. Barechhina is also noted for its prehistoric (10,000-40,000 years old) painted rock shelters at ‘Lakhudiyar’, which literally means ‘one lakh caves,’ on the banks of the Suyal River. It has paintings of animals, humans, and also tectiforms done with fingers in black, red, and white colors, and engravings of trishul (trident) and Swastika.
These images have now become a tourist attraction as well. It is also the site for archaeological rock engravings being studied by the Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts, New Delhi.
Other attractions
Though I did not see other attractions, I feel one must see Kasar Devi, Katarmal Sun Temple, Deer Park, Martola (a picnic spot), Simtola for mountain views, and Bright End Corner for sunrise and sunset.
On route driving
Finally do not miss Baal Mithai (Sweets)
Epilogue
I would like to spend a month at this place alone.
Views: 0
