I’m pretty used to planning my own trips, but since I don’t know much about the North East yet and haven’t traveled there before, I looked into a few tour operators and ended up going with Indian Railway’s IRCTC Tourism (booking link). My experience with them was quite good. I would definitely recommend them to others because their cancellation policy is really solid and hassle-free.
Location
Meghalaya is a state located in the northeastern region of India, nestled beneath the Himalayas. The capital city is Shillong, situated 2,053 KM away from New Delhi. This state is bordered by Assam to the east, north, and west, while Bangladesh lies to the south.
IRCTC cancellation rules are very clear
Fares are Single Rs.35,000/-, Double Rs.27,850/-, Triple Rs.25,730/-, Child with bed(5-11 years) Rs.21,490/-
Cancellation rules are very convenient
Up to 15 days (excluding departure date) Rs. 250 /- per passenger
Up to 8-14 days (excluding departure date) 25 % of the package cost
Up to 4-7 days (excluding departure date) 50 % of the package cost
Less than 4 days 100 % of the package cost
Travel insurance is included in the trip.
The roads of Meghalaya
Surprisingly, the hills of Meghalaya aren’t as tough and rugged as those in Badrinath and Kedarnath, making driving a lot easier. The roads are well-maintained and in great shape.
However, in some remote spots where landslides are a risk, the roads can be poor, but they’re constantly being fixed up.
Meghalaya has over 400 kilometers of border with Bangladesh, and during our travels, we frequently spot barbed wire fencing and military presence.
Shillong is capital of Meghalaya and pretty big town. Bigger than Nainital I think. There are plenty of hotels, narrow streets and crowded places. Traffic is high but disciplied. Almost no honking in entire Meghalaya.
Map of tourist points
Since we need to figure out which part of the state we’re exploring, I created a map showing the locations that IRCTC includes in this tour. Most of the attractions are located in Eastern Meghalaya.
Preparation
The best time to visit Meghalaya depends on our priorities: April to June is ideal for pleasant weather and outdoor activities like trekking and exploring root bridges. September to February offers less rain and minimal crowds, which is perfect for sightseeing with clear skies, though it can be cold. July to September is for witnessing the state at its most lush and powerful, with heavy monsoons, overflowing waterfalls, and misty valleys. Prepare for umbrellas, raincoats, and warm pullovers accordingly.
Do Kamakhya Darshan booking one week before start of tour—https://mkdonline.in/. Suggest choosing VIP darshan.
Hotel Booking
IRCTC arranged these hotels for us.
In Guwahati – Hotel Treebo Arna Residency, Silphukuri, Guwahati. It’s a decent mid-range hotel. The room size is fine, and the food is excellent. It’s located in the heart of the city, with all the attractions within a 4 KM radius.
In Shillong – Hotel Alpine Continental, Quinton Road, Shillong. This is also a good mid-range hotel. The room size is satisfactory, and the food is really good. It’s situated in the main part of the city.
Taxi Booking
IRCTC had arranged Innova taxi for us. The driver was courteous and responsible. But if you are not travellinng with tour operator, I suggest you to land in Guwhati and lot of tour operatiors are there for all seven sister states tour. No need of booking taxis in advance.
Day 1 (Oct 11) : GUWAHATI
When you get to Guwahati airport or the Railway Station, keep in mind that the airport is about 30 KM from the city. You can easily catch an Ola or Uber (slightly troublesome). It’s a good idea to arrive early in the morning so you can check out some local attractions in Guwahati, such as the Amedekar State Museum, Dhigoli Pukhri Lake, Uma Nanda Temple, and Brahmaputra Heritage Park, plus stroll through some markets. Enjoy dinner and spend the night in Guwahati.
The impression I had in my dream about Guwahati turned out to be wrong. It’s a large city with plenty of infrastructure, including roads, markets, flyovers, and parks. The lakes are stunningly beautiful too. Plus, I didn’t notice anyone bothering tourists; everything felt so calm. There was no need to haggle with taxi or rickshaw drivers since their fares were quite fair. The city is impressively clean, even in the busy streets. Unfortunately, I only had one day in Guwahati, so I couldn’t try the local cuisine.
But the snacks at 4 PM in the Brahmaputra Heritage Park restaurant were incredibly delicious.
Brahmputra Heritage Park is definitely one of the best I’ve come across in India. The entry fee is Rs.60, but if you’re interested in exploring the history of Brahmputra Heritage Park, it costs Rs.120. The museum is impressive, but it can be a bit tricky to grasp everything in a short visit. I do not recommend it.
Day 2 (Oct 12) : GUWAHATI -SHILLONG (130 KMS / 3 hrs drive)
The trip from Guwahatito Shillong was really nice, and the roads were fantastic. Just 15 km away from Shillong, we stopped at Umium Lake (a great reservoir). This lake reminds me of Loch Ness in Scotland. It’s one of the most stunning lakes I’ve seen in India, nestled in the Himalayas. The boating fee is Rs. 1800 for 7 people for 30 minutes. We spent around 2 hours there taking videos, snapping photos, and enjoying the boating experience.
Before long, we arrived in Shillong and checked out Lady Hyderi Park (now called Ka Phan Park) and Ward’s Lake. Both parks are definitely worth a visit. The evening was free for some leisure time. We had dinner and stayed overnight in Shillong.
Both of these lakes are right in the heart of the city. They must be a great asset for the local residents here.
Day 3 (Oct 13) : SHILLONG – CHERRAPUNJEE – SHILLONG (60 KMs / 2 hrs drive )
Morning after breakfast excursion to Cherrapunjee. Visit Elephanta Falls, Dwan Syiem view point, Noh kalikai falls, Mawsmai caves, Seven Sister falls. Return back to hotel. Dinner & overnight stay in Shillong. Onway, we halted at famous view point called Dwan Syiem view point.
Cherrapunji is a quaint little town. I’ve noticed that many towns have become commercialized, with numerous houses transformed into Stay Homes in Meghalaya, and Cherrapunji is no exception. I was really curious about this place, and now here it is right in front of me. It’s hard to believe.
We drove through the town and headed up a small hill to check out the Nohkalikai waterfall. We stopped at the main tourist spot in Cherapunji where we could catch a glimpse of the Nohkalikai falls. When we arrived, we found the falls shrouded in thick fog. Our driver mentioned that we should wait a bit, as the fog would clear up for a moment every 15-20 minutes, allowing us to see the waterfall. He was right! We witnessed one layer of fog shift just enough to give us a fleeting view of the magnificent falls. It felt like nature itself was smiling at us, and we were incredibly grateful to both nature and the divine for such breathtaking beauty.
Next up were the Mawsmai caves, just waiting for us. We got there around 3 pm. The driver parked the car, and we climbed about 50 steps to reach the caves. The Khasi hill jungle, with its thick forest, surrounded the caves, and it was really nice to see all that greenery. Even the older tourists were excited to go into the narrow cave, which takes about 30 minutes to explore.
We spent roughly an hour and a half at the Mawsmai caves, enjoyed some tea and pineapple, and then traveled about 7-8 km to check out the famous Seven Sister Falls.
The Seven Sister Falls wasn’t at its peak since it wasn’t the rainy season, but I could picture how stunning it must be during the rains. I have so much respect for the Khasi hills and this beautiful piece of nature.
After that, we headed back to Shillong, but I really wish we had stayed in Cherapunji instead of Shillong today.
Day 4 (Oct 14) : SHILLONG -DAWKI – MAWLYNNONG -SHILLONG (85 KMs / 3 hrs drive)
Morning after breakfast excursion to Dawki (Bangladesh border) and then to Mawlynnong, the cleanest village in Asia. Visit the living root bridge and drive back to Shillong. Dinner & overnight stay in Shillong.
After leaving Dawky, we headed over to check out the live root tree bridge. Once again, there were plenty of steps to climb. There are two parking areas available, and we need to park at the lower lot since the tree is close by.
This is honestly the first time I’ve seen a bridge made entirely of live roots. Below it, a stream of water flows, and I can see tons of photography opportunities here. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is one of the top photo spots in India. It’s such a great experience to spend time here surrounded by nature.
Our next stop was Mawlynnong, known as the cleanest village in Asia. It’s about 30 km from this route. I thought this village was totally non-commercial, but it turns out that 90% of the houses have been turned into ‘stay homes’. I guess it used to be a genuinely clean village, but after it got the title of the cleanest village in Asia, it became commercialized since so many tourists started flocking here. You can easily find a room here for 1500-2500, and there’s no need for advance booking.
After visiting this village, we headed back to Shillong since it was the last stop of the day.
Day 5 (Oct 15) : SHILLONG-JOWAI-SHILLONG (65 KM/2 hrs drive)
After breakfast, drive to the Jaintia Hills, home of the Jaintia tribes of Meghalaya. Places of interest: Thadlaskein Lake, Tyrshi Falls, Krangsuri falls, Durga Temple, Nartiang Monolith Park. Evening return back to Shillong. Dinner & overnight stay in Shillong.
So far, our tour has taken us to the central part of Meghalaya. As we know, the western region of Meghalaya is home to the Jaintia Hills. Today, our agenda is to explore the Jaintia Hills. Jowai, a town located in the West Jaintia Hills district of Meghalaya, is famous for its stunning landscapes, rich tribal culture, and pleasant weather. The town is primarily inhabited by the Pnar (Jaintia) tribe and serves as the headquarters of Jaintia.
Some popular spots to check out in and around Jowai include Krang Suri Waterfalls, known for its turquoise-blue waters and considered one of Meghalaya’s most beautiful waterfalls. Thadlaskein Lake is a historic man-made lake steeped in folklore, while Tyrshi Falls and the Nartiang Monoliths, which boast the largest collection of monoliths in India, are also part of the Jaintia heritage. Don’t forget to visit the Nartiang Durga Temple as well.
We are now on our way to the Nartiang Monoliths, the largest collection of monoliths in India, which is an important part of Jaintia heritage. This brings to mind the Stone Henges of Britain, and like those, these monoliths present a mystery, with their purpose still up for debate. This vast collection of ancient monoliths, consisting of upright and flat stones, was constructed by the Jaintia (Pnar) people centuries ago. It is believed to be one of the largest clusters of monoliths globally.
Next, we headed to the Nartiang Durga Temple, which is quite large and possibly the biggest worship center in the area. It is said to have been built by the Ramkrishna Mission temple. While Hindu temples are rare in Khasi, they are more common in Jaintia. The temple grounds are expansive, and I imagine many people gather here during special occasions. This temple is dedicated to Goddess Jaintia (Maa Durga).
From there, we went straight to Krang Suri Waterfalls. There were no less than 300 steps leading to the waterfall through the jungle. The steps weren’t too tough, but they could be challenging for those over 70, of course. The trek is incredibly beautiful, and thanks to the fresh air, we hardly felt tired. Even if we did feel a bit fatigued, it quickly disappeared upon seeing Meghalaya’s stunning turquoise-blue water, which is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the region. It’s a fantastic spot for photography.
On way back we missed two places, Tyrshi Falls and Thadlaskein Lake as roads were blocked due to some protests of local here.
Day 6 (Oct 16) : SHILLONG – Guwahati (130 KMS / 3 hrs drive)
After breakfast, check out and proceed to Guwahati. En route, visit Don Bosco Museum.
On arrival in Guwahati, check in at the hotel. In the afternoon, proceed for a river cruise (at your own cost) over the Brahmaputra River, and in the evening, you are free for shopping at the local market. Dinner & overnight stay in Guwahati.
Day 7 (Oct 17) : GUWAHATI
Kick off your day bright and early at 6 AM to head to Maa Kamakhya temple, located just 6 km away from our hotel in Guwahati. Even with a VIP pass, I had to wait 4 hours for darshan. I recommend getting a ‘Panda’ that comes with each ticket. It’s up to you if you want to reach out to the panda. I really think you should go for it.
After that, checked out from the hotel and kept our luggage at reception counter. Since we did not get time to visit Ambedkar State museum on first day, we thought of covering it today, This is a very good museum and worth seeing. It mainly displays the tableau of the life of Assamese and has large number of 9-14th century sculptures found in Assam region.
Epilogue
We touched to land of Meghalaya after touching the feet of Maa Kamakhya in Guwahati, Assam. Guwahati is the main entry point by rail, road or railways. After paying our respects at the feet of Maa Kamakhya in Guwahati, Assam, we arrived in the beautiful land of Meghalaya. Guwahati serves as the primary gateway whether you’re traveling by rail, road, or train.
Taking time to really think about and appreciate the beauty of Meghalaya is worth it. While it may not be mesmerising, there’s a unique vibe of discipline, cleanliness, safety, stunning waterfalls, and well-maintained roads.
It’s a fantastic spot for videos and photography, with the flora and landscape beautifully captured on camera. There are plenty of hotels and homestays available.
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