I ended up in Chamba on a whim. I had planned to stay three days at GMVN Uttarkashi, but after just one day, I knew that was enough. When I asked about getting a refund for the two days I wouldn’t use, the hotel staff told me it wasn’t possible. They suggested I explore Chamba or Tehri instead, or any other GMVN to use my money. So, I found myself in Chamba by chance. The drive to GMVN Chamba was pretty steep, and you’d definitely need a car to reach this rest house since it’s on a hill but with amazing views.
My friend checked in to the room. But I decided to hang out on the hotel grounds. I found myself lost in the peaceful hills, surrounded by mist, with monkeys wandering around looking for snacks. I just sat on the hotel floor, ordered some tea, and soaked in the quiet for a while. I felt like choosing Chamba was the right call for my personality.
“This charming little place reminds me of a shy eight-year-old girl hiding behind a tree, peeking out at us. It feels like a little girl exploring the jungle, blissfully unaware of the chaotic world beyond.“
Itinerary
This itinerary was planned with my friend for a pleasure journey to only one Dham, Gangotri.
We followed this route and added some overnight stays to off-the-beaten-path spots like Chamba, New Tehri, Maneri, Raithal, and Harsil.
Where to stay
The big question is where to stay in these places. I personally always prefer to stay in GVMN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) guest houses, which can be booked online. Staff is good, though not all GMVNs are maintained so well, but their surroundings and campus are beautiful everywhere. I blindly book state-run hotels everywhere. I recommend it for average and budget hotels.
Travel expenses
We rented a taxi in Haridwar for a week at Rs. 2500 a day. We wrapped up our trip in seven days. We covered the driver’s meal costs, even though it wasn’t part of the deal. Overall, the taxi cost us Rs. 18000, hotels were Rs. 13500, food came to Rs. 12000, and other random expenses added up to Rs. 5000. In total, we spent Rs. 48,500 for two people.
There wasn’t any food at the rest house since it wasn’t the right season, so we were figuring out how to navigate the steep paths to the market. But we took a chance and went through a shortcut. Typically, in the hills of India, the houses are packed tightly along narrow streets, and Chamba was no different. It wasn’t exactly pleasant walking through the cramped residential and market areas. Still, we made it to the main market after about a 2 km walk.
The market was smaller than we expected. We were just trying to get a feel for life in this little town, listening to the locals and picking up on their dialects. Chamba is a tiny town surrounded by hills, giving a glimpse into the lives of people in the remote Garhwal villages. The local market is small enough to explore on foot in just an hour. It’s a perfect spot for those seeking peace and the untouched beauty of the hills, especially around the GMVN rest house where we’re staying. We had a lovely night and planned to visit Kanatal, the Surkanda Devi temple, and Dhanolti before heading to Tehri.
The next day in the morning at 5:30, I got up and jumped at our hotel’s huge balcony, giving me a majestic view of the vast valley filled with clusters of houses, Banj trees, and bushes. In the morning mist, I noticed a few hotel staff doing their morning workouts, and I even spotted a deer wandering near the bushes close by. Today’s itinerary in Chamba included stops at Kanatal, Sukanda Devi, Dhanaulti, and Tehri.
With our taxi ready, we set off at 9 AM after breakfast, first stopping at Kanatal, where we found an adventure sports area with thrilling activities like mountain cycling, swings, and paragliding. We enjoyed a delicious aloo paratha and refreshing tea at a restaurant called Namaste Kanatal. Next, we headed to the Surkanda Devi temple, a sacred site for newlyweds seeking blessings, which involved a steep 1.5 KM trek
taking about an hour to reach the temple. After that, we visited Dhanaulti, known for its tall oak
Dhanaulti
forests and a biotech park, spending about an hour there before returning to Chamba to continue our journey to Tehri.
We made our way to Tehri from Chamba. I have faint memories of being there with my dad when I was a kid. It’s hard to believe that all the old houses, hotels, the Tehri palace, roads, and temples are now submerged in the Tehri Lake. When I spoke to some locals, I could sense the pain of losing their memories to the water. However, it seems like the people of Tehri have come to terms with it and are even happy, as they were relocated and given new homes that match their old ones.
You wouldn’t expect it, but Tehri is quite a large town. It’s definitely worth spending a night to check out the historic lake. The hotel options for dining are pretty limited, though. There’s a bus station that connects to different areas in Uttarakhand. Interestingly, even though Tehri is located in the highest seismic zone of the plateau, there are plenty of concrete high-rises around. The locals and city officials don’t seem too worried about earthquakes, and it seems like they trust that the government will step in to help them based on their past experiences with relocating the city.
On our way to Uttarkashi in the morning, we decided to check out the amazing Tehri Lake. When we got to the boating area, there were all kinds of boats, but we opted for the speedboat, which cost us Rs. 900 each for a 30-minute ride on the lake. Boating here is a must-do; you can’t miss it! Our driver took us from one side of the lake to the other, getting close to the floating huts. Floating huts can be booked through the GMVN booking link GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) Rates are around Rs.6000 per day.
Epilogue
When heading to Uttarakhand or any hill station, it’s important to have a positive and cheerful attitude. To truly enjoy the untouched beauty of the hills, you need to immerse yourself in the experience. Take in every detail—the fallen leaves, vibrant flowers, lush trees, serene lakes, majestic mountains, and misty air. Don’t forget to stop at those little roadside shops for a cup of tea, admire the winding roads, and soak in the views of valleys and snow-capped peaks. From oak and pine trees to blooming Branje flowers and Hinshalu bushes, there’s so much to appreciate. Embrace the tranquility of the place, even if it seems unremarkable at first; there’s always something special to discover. Chamba and Tehri are the true gems of Garhwal. While some might not be fans, spending a night in both spots is definitely worth it.
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