After a month of my trip to Mandu I sit and ponder or see in dreams I feel a full volume of history of Malwa passing through my eyes. Car streaming the paintings of dreamy green fields of rich Malwa and green hillocks passing like golden mounds of sweet beautiful desert. Scattered, poor but cleanly maintained cluster of houses, mild cold wind of December flowing and golden shine of Sun glittering the green fields of Malwa.
Kingdoms came, Sultanate came and vanished but left their footprints for us. The grandeur of Jahaz Mahal with no one inside where once the lamps and lanterns glittered all along Kapoor and Munj Talao with its reflection in their waters – But only solitude, sweet solitude sits today. The once majestic royal enclaves and Hammams might be shimmering with the waves of noise – today only solitude and stillness prevails. The story and music of Baz Bahadur and Rupmati buzzes in ear though the vaulted corridors of palaces. I do not need anything more in life.
How to reach Mandu
Mandu is 90 KM from Indore, 150 KM from Ujjain and 156 KM from Khandwa. We reached Mandu from Indore and from there we covered Maheshwar (55 KM) and Maheshwar to Omkareshwar (70 KM). There is no train station in Mandu and best way to reach there by taxi and bus. Plenty of buses ply to Mandu from important cities.
Where to stay in Mandu
There are a few good hotels in Mandu which range from Rs. 4000 per day to 800. We stayed in hotel Sai Dham at Rs.1700 per day from booking.com but hotel was worth Rs.600. There was no breakfast or proper food facility. Next day we shifted the hotel to Shivani Resort on main road and that was quite comfortable with good restaurant. You can also book MP State Tourism Dev Corp Tourist bungalow online.
What to see in Mandu
As per inscription found in Dhar, before 555 AD some fortification existed in Mandava region. It was built by some Rajput ruler of tribe of Bies local to the region. The place was known as Mandapa-Durga and in Prakrit called Mandava. Even today it is famous as Mandava with distorted name as Mandu.
Most of the structures in period from 1401 to 1536 AD during Delhi Sultanate.
Bhangi Darwaza is named so as a bhangi (sweeper) was immolated here to appease the spirits for successful completion of fort. From Kamani darwaza the bodies of enemy were dropped into the valley. In total the fort had no less than 16 gates.
During next 3 centuries, nothing is known about the developments in this region. But as per inscription found under Debris of Dilawar Khan’s mosque (Jahaz mahal premises), it is stated that it was ruled by prince Madhava (son of Pratihar king Mahendra Pala). Parmars of Malwa were rising to independent status under rule of King Munj and Bhoj when this fort was further strengthened and fortified. During this time the capital of Parmar was moved from Ujjain to Dhar (35 KM from Mandava). The memory exists today as the big water tanks are famous as Munj Talao.
During Bhoj I time, Mahmud of Gazni invaded Somnath but had to change to unfrequented route due to powerful Bhoj king. It was during Bhoj I time the Lohani caves were excavated and and some Shiva temples were built in this area which remain in ruins now. On name of ancient ruins we can see only Lohani caves just a KM from Jahaz Mahal.
After Bhoj I, the Malwa kingdom weakened and moved sometimes the their capital from Dhar to Mandava. Finally it became their capital.
In 1227 there was first invasion of Muslim forces when Iltutmish (Afghan slave dynasty) when he sacked Ujjain and Bhilsa but left Mandu untouched as a result of a treaty. And Hindu Malwa kings continued ruling Malwa. In 1283 Raja Bhoj II ascended throne when he faced the invasion of Delhi Sultanate Afghan king Jalal-ud-din Khilji (Founder of Khilji Sultanate). But he looted and returned back. In 1305 his successor Ala-ud-din Khilji attacked and dissolved the Malwa kingdom in Delhi Sultanate.
Thus the Muslim rule started in Malwa from 1305 onwards.
During Delhi Sultanate (1305-1400) the period was not eventful except few Hindu temples in the region. From 1401 the governors employed by Delhi Sultanate enjoyed complete independence due to weakening Tughlaq dynasty.
Governor Dilawar Khan kept his capital at Dhar and built Tarapur gate and Dilawar Khan’s Mosque.
His son Hoshang Shah shifted capital from Dhar to Mandu. He was great warrior of this time, secular and patron of art. He had great taste of architecture and built Jami-Masjid (now styled as Asharfi Mahal), Delhi Gate and Hoshang Shah tomb. He also did massive fortification in Mandu. Jahangir and historian Firishta have referred the defenses of Mandu in eulogistic terms. It is said that after death of Hoshang Shah, his tomb acquired sanctity and Urs used to be held every year till 1900.
Delhi gate is not in shattered state is named so as it faces Delhi. To reach this gate enemy had to pass through Alamgeer gate and Bhangi gate. These two additional gates were provided as this side the fort entry was comparatively easy. Around Delhi Darwaza we can see number of security guard rooms.
Mehmud Shah tomb is situated on top of Asharfi Mahal. Asharfi Mahal, Jami masjid and Jahaz Mahal are in walking distance of 1 KM and you can say are in center of Mandu. You can cover these in one day. It seems there might be some magnificent and huge building on top but now only the Mehmud Shah tomb (1436 AD) remains to be seen. Down we see some madarsa rooms. The whole structure is kept very clean. Asharfi mahal is also called Vijay Stambh as Mehmud Shahi I Khalji built it to commemorate the victory over Rana of Mewar. It was also used as madarsa those days.
Jami Masjid is just 1 KM from Jahaz mahal and is no less a majesty that the it. Its construction was started by Hoshang Shah and completed by Mehmud Shah I Khalji in 1454. It faces Asharfi mahal which is 200 meters away from it. As per our guide who is a good shaayar also told that this was used for holding the public and royal meetings (darbar) during Delhi Sultanate. We can easily identify that stones used in this once belonged to Hindu temples. There are spacious halls, porches, corridors, pillars, arches, vaults and row of domes. We are struck with its grandeur and volume.
Hoshang Shah’s son Mehmud Shah sat on throne. Mehmud Shah was poisoned by his own confidante courtier and this ended Ghurid dynasty. As per guide this tomb was first construction of Mughal dynasty in marble. Prince Shah Jahan visited Mandu twice in 1469 to pay homage to architects of this tomb and one of the architects of this tomb was inducted by him in building design of Taj Mahal.
The courtier sat on throne as Mehmud Shah I Khalji. It was during his time that Malwa rose to status of great prosperity and was reputedly recognized in Islamic World of its time. Because of this embassies were sent by grand son of Timur and Khalifa of Egypt to court of Mandu. He expanded Malwa kingdom. Also he completed the works of Jami Masjid and elevated Hoshang Shah tomb.
Mehmud I died in 1469 and his son Ghiyass-Ud-Din sat on throne. He had 31 peaceful years of rule and was famous for his extraordinary fancy for women but never touched wine. He was very religious and ruled with order, liberty and justice. It is very much probable that Jahaz Mahal and Hindola Mahal was built by Ghiyass-Ud-Din in view of spirit of enjoyment it is built architecturally.
Jahaz mahal is so called as it looks like a ship between Munj and Kapoor Talao. Jahangir and Noor Jahan used to stay in this palace as mentioned in his memoirs – “They lighted lanterns and lamps all round the tanks and buildings and a lighting up was carried out the like of which has never been arranged in any palace. The lanterns and lamps cast their reflection in water. A grand entertainment took place and the drunkards indulged themselves to excess”.
There are three large halls in this palace with corridors in between and narrow rooms at the ends.
It is said that Ghiyass-Ud-Din employed 15,000 women of various classes and professions. 500 beautiful and young Turkish females in men’s clothes and 500 Turkish women in female clothes and similar Abyssinian women. They used too stand as his guard.
Hindola Mahal means Swinging palace. It is named so for the sloping side walls. Its design is simple but appeals to us aesthetically and still I remember this palace sometimes when I recall Mandu.
It is said that he was poisoned by his own son Nasir-Ud-Din in 1500. He seemed to be haunted by the guilt of murder of his father which reflected in his temperament. He was violent and ruled for 10 years. The crime of patricide made him most detestable in eyes of Sher Shah and Jahangir who on their visits are said to to have desecrated his tomb and offered a number of indignities to his remains. He built Rewa Kund and a palace near it now called as Baz Bahadur palace.
Baz Bahadur palace is about 4 KM from Jahaz Mahal. This is unique palace with large number of Jharokhas that appropriately it should be called as Jharokha or Hawa Mahal. The guide told us that music concerts and competitions used to be take place here. He showed us the acoustic seats in the place and demonstrated us the melody enhanced more when singing on these seats. Even Tansen was also called here during Akbar time. There is a beautiful pond and guide told that Rupmati and Baz Bahadur also took bath in this pool.
At this point let me clarify some misconceptions about Famous Baz Bahadur and Rupmati episodes of Mandu.
Delhi Sultanate ruled for long time in Malwa. Mandu was capital of Malwa for quite sometime.
Baz Bahadur was son of Sujaat Khan, a governor installed by Sher Shah Suri. After disgraceful defeat of Baz Bahadur at hands of Rani Durgavati, Baz Bahadur completely lost into science of music and beautiful Rupmati was his associate. Later they married.
The Baz Bahadur palace was not built by Baz Bahadur but one of the previous king Nasir-ud-din Khilji. Later it became known as Baz Bahadur palace. Baz Bahadur fled from the battle field against a general sent by Akbar and so Rupmati committed suicide as she chose to die rather than going in hands of Akbar general.
Later this story turned into colours of love story.
Just a KM further on same route we see a small hillock where we can see Rupmati pavilion on top. There is entry ticket to this pavilion and even guides are also available. There are two routes to this -one by 30-40 steps and other by road. Not difficult to reach there even by steps. It is not certain about the builder of this pavilion. It was used by Rupmati to see Narmada river every morning. On clear sky we can see a thin winding Narmada as the guide told us. There are huge corridors of arched vaults in this pavilion.
There are gigantic vaulted corridors on base of Rupmati pavilion. Not sure if these were for security guards or for aesthetic architecture.
After his death his son Mehmud II took throne. He built Gada Shah House, Gada shah ki Dukan and Darya Khan’s tomb. Old domestic disputes haunted his reign, he ruled with help of a Rajput Medni Ray. As per ASI book Gada Shah House is said to be associated with Medani Ray. But as per guide Gada Shah was a big merchant who supplied the grains for whole of Mandu. Gada means “Beggar Master” and is associated with Rajput chief Medani Ray who was though servant to Sultans yet held a post of high importance as the other building called Gada Shah house is majestically constructed inside the premises of Jahaz Mahal.
Sher Shah appointed Sujaat Khan as governor of Malwa. Sujaat installed his son Baz Bahadur after his death in 1554. Baz Bahadur showed some spirits for fight in beginning but had to face disgraceful defeat from hands of Rani Durgavati. He gave himself to science of music and famous and beautiful Rupmati was his associate. In 1561 Akbar invaded Malwa and Baz Bahadur fled from the battlefield. Rupmati committed suicide before she could be caught by Akbar general. Rupmati pavilion was built during this period.
There are lot many splendid structures inside Jahaz Mahal premises which we will see here.
Shahi mahal occupies a major portion in the premises of Jahaz mahal. Today it looks in complete ruins but still it gives a sense that once it might be a majesty of prosper Sultans of Malwa. No doubt. There were multistoried basements and hiding places under the Shahi mahal. We can not form any idea now about the plan as they faced the wrath of nature and negligence over the centuries. Today we can only see the art of advanced Champa Bawadi. It was called Champa Bawadi due to sweet smell of its water like Jasmine flower. The guard told us his idea (actually mentioned in ASI book as well) that Queens could jump into this well in order to save themselves and from there they could sneak into labyrinth of vaulted passages known as ‘tehkhana’.
Dilawar Khan mosque is one of the earliest structures as part of Shahi mahal. By design and pillars it clearly looks like a temple converted into a mosque in haste.
Near Dilawar Khans mosque is Nahar Jharokha. Nahar in English is lion. This big layout of the vast lawn and corridors was so called as it once contained a effigy of lion mounted. The guide showed us that effigy today lying on ground. Nahar Jharokha was meant for king to show himself to his subjects, a practice which was more common in Mughal emperors like we see in Agra and Red fort.
The guide showed us the Hindu Bawadi (reservoir) and the mechanical means to take out water. We can see that all reservoirs in Mandu still are full of water in all seasons.
Just when we enter the Jahaz mahal premises after the ticket counter we come across a building known as Taveli. This was used as stable of horses and guards of Shahi mahal. Now it is converted into rest house for visitors.
Royal Hammam is part of Shahi Mahal and the guide showed us how the warm and cold water will mix, bathing tub and cloth change room. The roof of hammam is so designed that it looks like shining stars in day time when seen from inside.
There are many other remnants scattered around Jahaz Mahal in vicinity of 5 KM. These can be covered by auto in about 6 hours. These points are Andheri Ujali Baodi, Jaali Mahal, Chhappan mahal, Echo point, Daai ki behen ka mahal and Lohani caves, Delhi Gate.
Another building associated with Gada Shah is known as Gada Shah ki Dukan is about 6 KM from Jahaz Mahal. It seems it served the purpose of Hall of Audience as per ASI.
The amazing structures of water reservoirs (Bawadi) in which water can be still seen is known as Ujaali Bawadi – as water is visible and sun light reaches inside and Andheri bawadi -as sunlight dies not reach here. It must be a source of water to town those days may be.
Behind the Echo point where I am standing is a building known as Daai ki chhoti behen ka mahal. It is related to wet nurse of some prince of Malwa. It is actually a tomb. It is said that it was her house once and now she is buried here.
Standing in front a local guy showed us the demo of echo. This echo arises due to valley nearby and is mandatorily shown enthusiastically to visitors by local tourist guides. Visitors are also amuses to hear the echo.
Near the echo point or Daai ki chhoti behen ka mahal is Jaali mahal. It is clad with exotic jaalis and is actually a tomb of some noble man.
Chhappan mahal is actually a tomb of some noble man and now is converted in a small museum with sculptures and idols from 10th to 17th century. There is ticket counter here for Rs.20.
Epilogue
I believe that Mandu is and ancient jewel of medieval North central of India. It is well protected and maintained by ASI and must be a good earning for government as lots of film shootings take place here throughout the year. The fortune of Mandu fell after fall of Baz Bahadur. Jahangir’s successors did not show any interest in it and it soon became deserted. From 1732 onwards it was under Marathas. I feel sorry to have missed Tarapore gate, Chisti Khan Palace, Lal mahal, tomb of Darya Khan, Hathi mahal, Daai ka mahal and Malik Mughit’s tomb. This is a must see place and is equally beautiful to spend here 3 days in serenity and better alone.
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