When I landed in Rajasthan it was a unique experience. Raja-sthan literally means “The Land of Kings” justifies as everywhere are the museums, havelis, forts, palaces and cenotaphs.
Rajasthan is largest state of India by area and 7th most populates state. Though the population density is as low as 17 persons per KM due to desert. It is made beautiful by fascinating and curious Great Indian Desert (Thar) and Aravalli Hills are like garland to this desert.
It has large number of World Heritage sites and is mother of Indus Valley civilization like Kalibangan and Balathal, Delwara and Ranakpur Jain temples, Keoladeo National Park of Bharatpur, a world heritage site, Sariska Tiger reserve and Ranthambore tiger reserve, great forts like Chittorgarh and Kumbhalgarh and inviting attractive Sand dunes.
18 Days tour – Jaipur – Bikaner- Jaisalmer- Jodhpur- Ajmer- Udaipur, Haldighati, Kumbhalgarh, Ranakpur
Estimated Expenditure
All journey by train – Expenses – Rs.3000
Udaipur-Haldighati-Kumbhalgarh-Ranakpur-Udaipur – 1 day trip by RTDC car Rs.4000
Entry Fee – Rs.2000 , Local site seeing transport – Rs.3000, Boating – Rs.500
Lodging – Rs. 38000, Boarding – 25,000
Total per person approx – Rs.75,000 for single
Which season is best to visit Rajasthan?
September to March end
What can be skipped in above itinerary?
There is sometimes hype about places in Youtube and other social media. Based on my experience on site all above points are must see except two points in Bikaner – Lalgarh palace and Gajesar palace.
Lalgargh palace is not open for tourists as it is private property. You can only see sprawling gardens and take photo from outside and see museum at nominal entry fee.
Gajesar palace is about 20 KM from city and since it is now converted to hotel entry fee is as high as Rs.250. Only Gajesar lake and some inner buildings and restaurants can be seen.
Which are desert cities of Rajasthan?
Jaisalmer-Deshnok, Pokran, Osian near Jodhpur, Bundi, Mandawa, Pushker, Barmer, Bikaner, Nagaur, Churu and Chittorgarh. Best desert city to see is Jaisalmer.
Is all Thar full of sand dunes?
No. Sand dunes are formed in pockets and these are main attraction to tourists and hence many resorts can be seen nearby it. It provides livelihood to thousands due to tourism. Lot of shootings take place in Jaisalmer dunes. The Jeep and camel Safari guys showed us such locations of many films like Rudali, Border, Bajrangi Bhai Jaan etc.
Where to stay in Rajasthan?
Whenever I travel in India, I always look for state tourism department guest houses/hotels. Since I know their standard and service I am worriless about any risk. These are average hotels but they have big compounds and bigger room and average good restaurants. So far the staff are courteous in all these hotels. In this trip also I booked online using
https://rtdc.tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/client/hotellist.aspx
What transport to use while travelling from one city to other in Rajasthan?
It is always better to use train or air as cities in Rajasthan are well connected. Travel by car may disappoint you as there are no scenery but deserts with sparse vegetation and may be few sand dunes.
In right photo below is a snap of cenotaph in Bada Bagh in Jaisalmer. Such cenotaphs can also be seen in Bikaner, Udaipur and Jodhpur. To me Jaisalmer cenotaphs of Bada Bagh presented marvelous view which attract many film makes around world.
Is it necessary to stay in Desert camp to enjoy sand dunes?
Though I stayed overnight in Bikaner Desert Camp & Resort and RTDC Samdhani in Jaisalmer. But you can call these resort and visit these camps and see cultural programs, dinner at nominal charge and return back to city in night.
Which city is best for desert camp?
During my this trip to Jaipur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Ajmer and Udaipur I stayed in two desert camps – Bikaner and Jaisalmer since I wanted to understand the nature of deserts. Bikaner desert camps are very few and sand dunes are limited to small areas. Jaisalmer is best for desert camp. Here you can enjoy jeep safari, camel safari and on foot walks also in virgin deserts. If economic constraints or time then stay in desert camp in Jaisalmer is sufficient if not enough .
Where to see the cultural dance program in this trip?
I saw the folk dances and singing in Bikaner Desert camp and Jaisalmer as it was included in room tarrif.
We also must see folk dance of 2 hours in Bagore ki haveli in Udaipur for which entry fee is just Rs.100.
Where to stay in Desert camp?
I chose the best desert camps. In Bikaner I stayed at Bikaner Desert Camp & Resort in Raisar Village (18 KM from city). It costs Rs. 4000 for 2-3 persons which includes folk dance, camel safari and breakfast and dinner. The sand dunes of Bikaner at Raisar village were not so attractive but after all it is desert. They provide camel riding but senior citizens should be careful to ride on camels. It is risky.
In Jaisalmer I stayed in RTDC Samdhani Desert camp (30 KM from city). It costs Rs. 4000 for 2-3 persons which includes folk dance, camel safari and breakfast and dinner. Their hosting and courtesy was superb. Since it was beginning of off-season and hotel was almost vacant, still they arranged cultural program for us. Their dinner was superb.
https://rtdc.tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/Client/HotelDetails.aspx?HotelID=JaisalmerSamDhani
What transport to use for local site seeing within city?
You can book an auto for your day’s itinerary. The auto guys are reasonable and honest. I did not see any meter system in autos in all these cities. Also 90% auto guys want only cash. No google pay or Paytm accepted except in shops. So keep some cash with you always. Autos are comparatively bigger.
Are there any entry fee in the site visits and museums in Rajasthan?
Most of the sites, museums and havelis and forts are maintained privately by trusts the entry fee are high.
The entry fee of Rs. 250 to 300 is common. Keep aside about Rs.2500 for entry fee.
How to cover Kuldhara and Khaba Fort?
While going to Samdhani RTDC desert just fix an auto to start at 9.30 AM and visit Kuldhara and Khaba fort. Seeing these points takes about 4 hours. Ask auto to drop you at RTDC Samdhani at 2 PM. Also same auto guy will pick you up from Samdhani to Jaisalmer. On return he will also show you two medieval famous Jain temples in Ludrwa village. In all he took Rs. 3300 for this service.
What boating I did in this trip?
The boating opportunity I found in three places. Gadisar lake in Jaisalmer, Fateh Sagar lake and Pichhora lake in Udaipur. The boating charges are very reasonable. Charges are maximum Rs.100-200 per person.
How to cover Haldi Ghati, Kumbhalgarh fort and Nathdwara, Mount Abu and Ranakpur temple from Udaipur?
I took RTDC car for this journey. He started at 10.30 AM and returned back to hotel same day at 9 PM. They charged Rs.4000 for this. Only at Kumbhalgarh parking was paid by us. If interested take RTDC taxi for Nathdwara temple visit and Mount Abu next day.
The Ranakpur temple was constructed in 1436AD as per copper plate record. This is amazing to see such ornamentation of marble sculpture in every inch of temple.
Epilogue
It takes about a minimum of 15 days to feel the splendor of deserts, understand the sand dunes, the local tribes and culture their folk dances. Rajasthan has rich culture which they carry even today and is visible in Rajasthan city equally.
This is India’s most traversed route by tourists after chardham route. There are many more world famous sites in Rajasthan such as Ranthambore, Chittorgarh, Bundi, Nagaur, Bharatpur sanctuary and many more. We need at least five to six trips of 15 days each.
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