When I first time saw Kashi I was a student. Had joined M.Tech in BHUIT for scholarship of Rs.600 pm. This amount was enough for me for good stay, mess and for paying fee for competitions and some travels too.
It was the first day in Kashi and I did not know that it was Shiv Ratri. The whole atmosphere was different that day. As I remember today there was lot of chanting of Shiva hymns on speakers everywhere. People in orange clothing with ashes and vermilion on their forehead, busts of bhang also were kept at few places as I remember. The streets I passed were flooded with flowers and decorations. I thought this is what I heard about Kashi was true. But I did not know that it was Shiv Ratri that day. The same day there was sine die and I had to flee from the BHU campus even without seeing my college. There was lathi charge in campus and I somehow escaped passing on foot few KMs through the streets of Kashi. The streets were very narrow and I could feel that I am passing through medieval Kashi.
Anyway I joined college after a month and I limited myself to BHU campus and did not like to go outside in dirty and narrow streets of Kashi but one day I found myself in front of the street of Kashi Vishwanath temple but did not dare into the street and returned without darshan.
But now it is 40 years that I entered Kashi again. I think I was seeing new Kashi.
Ramnagar fort was built by Maharaja Balwant singh in 1750 after rejecting the suzerainty of nawab of Oudh. He was also known as “Shivaji of North” and was the first to wage fight against East India Company.
History of Kashi
Benaras is 3000 years old city and has mention in Rigveda, Skand Puran, Ramayana and Mahabharata. 15000 verses about Benaras are in Skand purana. Varanasi, land of Sarnath, Sant Ravidas, Kabir, 23rd Jain teerthanka Parshwanath, Tulasidas who composed Ram Charit Manas and Guru Nanak who visited Kashi in 1507 during Shiv Ratri.
1194 it saw the destructive phase under Qutub-Uddin-Aibek when temples were destroyed and scholars fled away. In 16th century it was some respite for religious activities. In 17th century again Aurangzeb disturbed the city by his destructive approaches. In 18th century again the glory returned.
Earlier in Mughal time it was under loose suzerainty of nawabs of Oudh. In 1737 a confidant Zamindar and Bhumihar caste general Mansa Ram Singh won some battles for Nawabs and few provinces were awarded by Mughal king Muhammad Shah. After him his son Balwant Singh inherited this zamindari. He disobeyed the suzerainty of Awadh Nawabs and expelled the representatives of Nawabs from his court. It was retaliated and Nawab waged war against him. Balwant Singh had to accede but continued his gorilla war against them. Ultimately Nawab gave up and Balwant Singh assumed title of first Maharaja of Kashi. He is called “Shivaji of North” as he started tradition of opposing East India Company and kindled nationalism. He participated in Battle of Buxar in 1764 with Nawab Shuja-ud-daula against British. The maharajas after him also followed the same policy.
How to reach
It is is just 3 KM from BHU main gate and auto charges Rs.15 from BHU gate to reach here.
Where to stay
The fort is in main city and so you can stay in any hotel in Varanasi.
You can book Rahi Tourist Bungalow- near cantonment area. Though this is about 6 KM from Main temple yet it is better to stay in neat and spacious surroundings.
https://www.upstdc.co.in/Booking/HotelBooking
from Rupees 750 to 3500 per day.
You can also stay in Sarnath which is about 12 KM from main temple. But better stay in Rahi Tourist Bungalow near cantonment area.
Sarnath Rahi Tourist Bungalow Sarnath
Season
All seasons except May and June to avoid heat of Summer.
Distance to be walked on foot
1 KM maximum inside fort. You have to follow about 30 steps also to reach the Ghat facing river Ganges from inside the fort.
Time to spend About 2 hours.
Expenses
There is entry fee of Rs 75 Museum children Rs 20 which includes entry fee of Museums.
Sight seeing
There is residence of titular maharaja of Kashi. There access to his private residence is not allowed. Sometimes current Maharaja stays here. The fort has 1110 rooms, not maintained still in want of not so much money to maintain. Access to fort is only in about 40% area.
Museums – There are two rich museums. Photography is strictly not allowed inside museums. It contains rich and rare collection of oldest cars, pistols, guns, other weapons, clothes, Palkis used by queens, coins, utensils etc.
Epilogue
We know Varanasi by nagri of Kashi Vishwnath, makshdayani cremation ghats, Sarnath and the streets of Varanasi.
We know its past more from attempts to destroy temples and erection of Babri Masjid.
But we do not know Narayana Dynasty of Bhumihar maharajas. Their history starts from days of Awadh Nawabs. The Narayana dynasty wrested Varanasi from the hands of Nawab of Oudh by rejecting their suzerainty. Balwant Singh was the first to start the tradition of fight against East India company. He was known as “Shivaji of North”.
This fort cum palace was built by Balwant Singh in 1750. Unfortunately this is less known and visited by our young generation except that I see schools are not behind in introducing their children to this old glory of Varanasi which has one of first to infuse spirit of Nationhood.
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