Before going to Scotland I explored lot of itineraries conducted by different operators and since we had to go on self tour we decided the main points of Scotland as below program and we could implement exactly as per this.
Day 1- Edinburgh palace
Day 2 – Royal mile-St. Guile’s church – Museum (4 hours)
Day 3- Calton Hill, Parliament, Holyrood, Old graveyard (8 hours)
Day 3- Day tour by bus – Lochness- Glancoe- Loch Lubinag one day tour (10 hours)
MONUMENTS ON TOP OF CALTON HILL Hill top has these monuments. To reach on top of hill we have to take about 40 high rise steps and about 600 meters of tar road. City Observatory, Nelson monument, National monument, Dugald Stewart Monument, old Royal High School, Robert Burns Monument, Hume walk encircling the hill for views of Edinburgh. In 1400s this place was hosting tournaments and festivities but in 1600s on darker side it became ground of public executions.
Calton Hill is included in UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is actually formed on a volcano. It was purchased in 1724 by municipal council and established a perk here as FIRST public park of Britain.
Hume walk – in 1755 this path was developed encircling the monuments from three sides. It presents panoramic view of Edinburgh all along the path with few specific points.
The monuments and buildings we see today date from 1760s to 1820s and relate to a period of ‘Scottish enlightenment’, a time of Scottish great artists, literary and scientific advances.
The background of Scottish National Monument is that Napoleon rose to highest ranks and became monarch taking advantage of unrest in France public against monarchy and oppressions. But it later stage he adopted expansionism and defeated almost all Europe and Egypt except Britain. He was Admiral Nelson who defeated Napoleon in battle of Trafalgar and thereafter France never dared to attack Britain. Napoleonic war was waged from 1803-1815 and total of 40 millions around world and 3 lakh British died in this war.
Scottish National Monument
Built in1822-29.This monument was designed by renowned Scottish architect William Henry Playfair. This monument was intended to be another Parthenon and to commemorate Scottish Soldiers killed in the Napoleonic wars.
In late 18th century many buildings were being constructed to highlight Edinburgh as city of intellectuals. This building was also made on Neo-Greek architecture (strong and giant rather than too much baroque). But funds ran out in 1829 and this building remained incomplete.
Nelson Monument
Built in1816. We can reach Nelson monument by 143 steps. The key feature of this monument which attracts visitors to take 143 steps to see is the time ball. The time ball (1854) installed in Nelson Monument was idea of Astronomer Royal of Scotland that the fall of the ball was triggered a clock in observatory by a underground wire laid between City observatory and Nelson monument.
But since it sould not be seen by sailors in fog time a One O’Clock Gun was established at Edinburgh Castle to provide an audible signal in 1801. The time ball was operated for over 150 years, until it was damaged by a storm in 2007.
Douglald Stewart monument
Built in 1831. He was a famed writer and philosopher. This model was also designed by William Henry Playfair on on ancient Choragic Monument of Lysicrates in Athens.
Robert Burns monument
Built in 1839. This building commemorates Scotland’s nation poet Robert Burns (1759-96). It is modelled on ancient (around 300 BC) Choragic Monument of Lysicrates (ancient theatrical musical group) in Athens but somewhat varied version. The key feature of this building is top portion which is today awarded as a prize for dramatic performances. The garden around has flowers for which Robert burns mentioned usually in this poetry.
Hume Walk
Scottish architect William Henry Playfair thought of this walk road encircling all the monuments on the top of Calton hill. This is names as Hume walk to commemorate the works of philosopher David Hume (1711-1776). It offers spectacular views, inspirations for poets and artists such as Robert Burns, JMW Turner and Julius Verne who often visited here.
The famous photographer David Octavius Hill (1801-70) had his home here at foothill. The view give a perfect blend of old and new Edinburgh.
Old Royal High School
This building is also on design of Greek style. The school was relocated in 1968 to make space for parliament meetings. Anyway Scottish Parliament is also relocated from here as the new building constructed in 2004 in foothill of Calton hill in modern design.
This building remained a mystery for me as there are no signage boards here and further exploration from an office in room found that this building is empty and sometimes used to develop the site into a National School of Music and home for St Mary’s Music School.
City Observatory
Built in 1776. This was also designed by William Henry Playfair. This is also based on Greek style architecture. It was in parallel to Greenwich observatory and had Astronomer Roys using it for observatory in medieval period. The primary role of this observatory was to provide accurate time for Edinburgh and Port of Leith, a key importer of colonial goods.
The time ball of Nelson monument was synced with the clock in observatory by using underground wire.
Thomas Handerson was first Astronomer Royal of Scotland in 1834. He determined the position of Alpha Centauri stars.
There is a telescope here to record the passage of celestial objects across meridian. Accurate time was noted by comparing daily star crossings with known positions in the sky.
MONUMENTS ON FOOTHILL OF CALTON HILL
In the foot of the hill lie Holyrood palace, Parliament, Arthur seat, park all fall under Calton hill and its foot area. All these three Holyrood palace, Parliament and Arthur seat, old graveyard are at walking distance of 2 KM.
Holyrood Palace
The Palace of Holyrood house has now been home to royalty for over 500 years, and is still the official residence of The Queen in Scotland.
Unfortunately we could not go inside the palace premises as a Prince was on visit as told by guards.
we missed seeing the residence of Mary Queen of Scots who lived here from 1561 and 1567, her bedchamber, outer chamber and supper room are all filled with items relating to her life at the Palace. The paramour of Mary, the queen of Scots was murdered here. in front of her husband.
Ghost story prevalent about this palace is – Even today after cleaning the room still the blood stains appear here.
Parliament
In 1320 AD nobles from Scotland wrote to Pope that will of people is more important than that of monarch.
In 1707 Scottish parliament was dissolved by vote 106 to 69 in favor to merge with Britain. The main catalyst in this were faltering economy, bankruptcies and threat of England to ban export to England unless union was negotiated.
Modern Scotland in on line of ideal democracy where any one can approach the Scottish parliament and sit in their parlor and file a petition. Even children, foreign visitors petition is heard. The bill is first passed in Scotland parliament and then moved to London for queen approval.
There are 129 MSPs (Member of Scottish Parliament) elected by people from constituencies. MSPs elect one MSP as First Minister. First minister then appoints Ministers,
There are committee rooms to discuss particular subject area by small group of ministers. There is a big debating chamber where all MSPs assemble and is where laws and Scotland related issues are discussed.
It was established in 1999 and after acts of 1998, 2012 and 2016 all powers for Health, Social, education, Justice, police are passed to Scotland while immigration, national security, arms powers are with England.
Arthur seat
There is king named Arthur in Scottish kingdom clan and it is said to be some figure in legend literature only. Don not know why it is called Arthur seat. It is just at walking distance from Holyrood palace and Parliament.
There is king named Arthur in Scottish kingdom clan and it is said to be some figure in legend literature only. Do not know why it is called Arthur seat. It is just at walking distance from Holyrood palace and Parliament. The total walk is about two hours and is slightly tougher for people above 50 years. We went half way and then returned as route was a bit rough and due to drizzling in between with no shelter on way. It is said the 16 murders took place here in span of 2 months to sell bodies to doctors for dissection.
Old Graveyard
It was opened in 1718. It is the resting place of several notable Scots which influenced the history of Scotland. Most of us do not know much about them. The structure which attracted me is the the watch tower which was built to guard the dead body snatchers from the grave.
Epilogue
This is surprising that these buildings are based on Greek style architecture. One of the signage boards in Calton Hill tells that since Greenwich observatory was built in Britain based on Roman style and hence to keep itself distinct from Britain the Greek design was followed. And gradually other monuments also followed the same tradition.
All these buildings on Calton Hill were instrumental in gaining the city the title of ‘ Athens of the North’. This is a historic place and more to the Scotland’s local history. They made this place as a memoir of their statesmen, warriors and their poets. It is visited by all tourists who come to Edinburgh.
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