delhi

Humayun’s Tomb – Day 2 in Delhi

On second day I had planned to visit Humayun.s Tomb. To know the background I have just described the history of kingdoms of Delhi in brief and which basically relates to monuments history and architecture of Delhi.

बहुत हसीन-सा इक बाग़ घर के नीचे है
मगर सुकून पुराने शजर (tree) के नीचे है  – मुन्नवर राणा

Location

Humayun Ka Makbara (Humayun.s Tomb)  is located in Delhi, India which is capital of India and  an international airport. If you come here for few hours then you can keep your luggage in Cloak room in T3 terminal Metro station which is just 5 minutes walk for the T3 airport. From T1 this facility is not there but you can keep the luggage in Metro. I visited this on Day2 of Delhi trip while coming back from Qutb Minar on way back to old Delhi.

Hotels

There are lot of hotels in Delhi. In fact the monuments like Red fort,Qutb Minar, Humayun tomb, Purana Quila etc all are within range of 15-18 KM and can be easily accesses from either New Delhi, Old Delhi or Shivaji Stadium. Even autos are reasonable and reliable.

3 Day Itinerary

The following section will be updated with time as and when I get opportunity to travel to Delhi.

Day 1 Took a comfortable and very neat hotel “Athiti Palace” in Daryaganj. Red Fort (3 hrs) with guide, India gate (1 hr).
 Day 2 Qutub Minar (3 hours), Humayun Tomb (1.5 hrs). Guides are available.
 Day 3 Purana Quila (3 hrs), Kotla Feroz Shah  adjacent to Delhi Zoo, Khooni darwaza, Shershah gate (4 hrs), Jantar Mantar(2.5 hrs).
Still I have to visit Seventh City, third and fourth cities, Lal Kot, Tomb of Ghari, Lodi Garden, Khushk Mahal, Suraj Kund, Anangpur dam, Ugrasen Baoli , complete Nizzamuddin, Lodi garden some other next time.
1.       Guides were not available at Purana Quila but all ASI boards are very informative, ASI guards were available as very good guides at Kotla Feroz Shah, Jantar Mantar.

2.       If you are short of time you can keep your luggage in cloak room in Airport Terminal-3 metro station. It is costly but still convenient. I paid Rs.400 for 1 luggage for 24 hrs.

3.       You can catch metro for Shivaji Stadium  from Airport and catch auto to go to any places. Surprisingly Autos are friendly and very reasonable.

4.       Better to start journey from Red Fort as there is ASI book stall inside fort which contains cheap and great books about monuments. ASI books are always authentic and informative.

3 Day Itinerary

Humayun’s Tomb History

The tomb was build in 1565 by Humayun’s senior widow Bega Begum popularly known as Haji Begum ten years after death of Huyamun. But as per some manuscripts of 18th century after 14 years of his death it was built.

It is first substantial example  of Mughul architecture with high arches and double domes in India. Also although some tombs earlier than his were also with garden but this is the first example first mature idea of garden in tomb. Later examples are Taj mahal.

Humayun Tomb South side entry

Several rulers of Mughul dynasty are buried in this mausoleum, although there there is no identification possible and all Tombs are inscripted with same Quran verses. But as per guide here are tombs of Haji Begum (senior wife of Humayun) who built this mausoleum,

Hamida Bano Begum (junior wife of Humayun), Alamgir II and Bahadur Shah Zafer II etc.

Barbar’s Tomb

On south side we see another tomb called Barbar’s tomb though no one knows who is actually buried in this. This tomb as per local tradition and folklore belongs to Humayn’s barber. This tomb was commissioned by Akbar in 1590-91.

Behind is Nila Gumbad and front is Barber’s tomb

Nila Gumbad

Believed to have been built in 1625 by Abdur Rahim Khan Khan-i-Khanam  and one of his faithful attendant Hahim Khan is interned here. Some believe that this tomb was even before the Humayun tomb was constructed.

Interestingly Abdur Rahim Khan was Bairam Khan’s son who was guardian of Akbar after Humayun death. Khanam was later hanged by Akbar son Jahangir on Khooni Darwaza.

Arab Sarai

Arab Sarai description

Arab Sarai Gate

.Arab Sarai was built by Haji Begum brought  300 Arab Mullaha whom shad brought from Mecca. It is however suspected that Mulla stay was misnomer , actually  persian craftsmen stayed here during mausoleum construction.

 

 

 

Afsarwala Tomb and Mosque

The mosque is on right side and has 3 openings with arches. On left is octagonal tomb with double dome. This tomb is also unnamed and so goes with name afsar wala.

Afsar Wala mosque and Tomb

Isa Khan Tomb

As per ASI board here This predates the Humayun mausoleum by 20 years. Isa Khan was a noble man in court of She Shah Suri (1539-45). The inscription in the tomb says it of date 1547-48. The interior contains six graves, but it is difficult to spot the grave of Isa Khan  and nothing much is known about the occupant of the other five graves.

Isa Khan Tomb and mosque

Shershah had overthrown Humayun in 1540 and declared himself Delhi Sultan. Isa Khan Niyazi was his most trusted lieutenant and SHersah made him Governor of Multan.
Even after death of Sher Shah he continued to serve his son Islam Shah Sui and constructed this tomb in 1547-48 when he was alive.

Garden around mausoleum

Everywhere around here we can see garden and garden. This is one view of garden

Bu’ Halima Garden and gate

Bu Halima was wet nurse and a Mughul noble woman. She came along with Babar from Afghanistan. She must be an important name in Babar-Humayun life so a Gate and garden in front of Humayun Tomb at so close.

Bu-Halima Gate

Unfortunately I did not notice her tomb like any other tourist.

Epilogue

This is a marvel piece of Mughul (persion architects) architecture from where the double dome arch started and building tombs with mature garden around. Taj mahal and Red fort are some examples which followed later. Almost all The tombs inside are unnamed and it seems addition in tomb buildings are done by local chiefs and clergy also.

These are the only structures left out as our proud heritage.In order to understand functionality
When you visit Purana Quila you can see historical 500 hundred years old Khairu’l Manazil
It was my day 3 of travel into Delhi. I was on way back from Uttarakhand
Kotla Firuz Shah is designated in history as Delhi's fifth City. After seeing Purana Quila
Most visited place in India.

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